8n wont start

8n side mount mybe 52 I tried to start in winter to plow snow. It turned over very stong but would not start. I think I turned it over to much, because now it only turns over at half the power. I put new plugs in check the bat. got a reading at 12v. The starter sounds like it grinding. Did I fry it?

The 12v batt.should read 12.3-12.5 when fully charged.You should not grind starter very long before letting it cool[30 sec.]you might have it checked at a shop and if bad,have it rebuilt.Also check connections,make sure it's nice and clean.good luck---lha

Batt reads 12.3 Connections are good. I did try to start to long. Is the starter easy to take out? all I see is the two bolts. Or should I be careful in case something falls out after removing it from the ttractor? I am new with working on old tractors.

why not actually check something like SPARK before you start pulling expensive parts off!!

soundguy

I forgot to mention that I put new plug in and gaped them at 025

and???

And It still turns over at half the power. the batt is good it reads at 12.3

and you didn't answer my questions about spark...

as for turning over slow.. have you checked all cables, terminals ends, including ground strap to tractor, and starter mounting point?

soundguy

" the batt is good it reads at 12.3 "

Maybe not.

I've got a good lantern battery here that reads 12.3 volts; think that will turn your starter over?

Check the battery w/ a hydrometer (tip # 49)

Charge it overnight.

Clean all the grounds like Soundguy suggested, including the mating surface between the block & starter (see tip # 36 before you do that).

Then, if that doesn't work, check for spark & fuel. I've always found it to be cheaper & easier to actually diagnose the problem before I start replacing parts.

There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to do it. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air, so that's why you need to use a spark plug. Or, a store bought plug checker. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air creates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running.

Post back w/ results or more questions.
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I checked all cable connections there clean and tight. the gas is flowing out of the carb good. tryed the spark plug w/3-16 gap. And got no spark.

Do you have voltage across the points when they are open? Verify the gap on the points at .025. Then, run a piece of card stock or brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have a residue & old points can corrode, or get grease from the distributor cam on them. Or, you could have used a dirty feeler gauge. (I always spray mine off w/ contact cleaner.) Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts & often hard to find because it is usually an intermittent short. (If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.)If you just replaced the rotor & lost spark, put the old one back in. Check continuity on the secondary coil wire. Make sure it is firmly seated in both the cap & the coil. In fact, replace it temporarily w/ a plug wire.

Post back w/ results; I'll be interested in what the problem was.
50 Tips