1943 2n-leaking

grandpaclint · Mar 8, 2010

hi group
would appreciate a little help here.
i have a 2n, and hydro. lift arm bushings are leaking,
if i order 2 new ones, how hard is it to get the old ones out????
is this a major repair??????

any help would be appreciated

thanks
Clint

Bruce (VA) · Mar 8, 2010

To get to it, you need to remove the axle trumpet. If you remove the left trumpet, you can do them both at the same time. It's held on by a castelated nut w/ a cotter key on the inside. Drain the fluid (see tips 3 & 4, below) Remove the left trumpet & slide the differential gear out. (an engine hoist is a good idea) Make sure the holes are not wallowed out or you will be in there again. I hear JB Weld works, but I've never had the problem so I can't say for sure. Referring to p. 57 in the Master Parts catalog (you have one, right?), the pin you need to replace is p/n 563. The hole which may be wallowed out is in the trumpet, p/n 4012 or 4013. The nut that holds the pin on (which is inside the differential housing) is p/n 33860-S. The cotter key is p/n 72035-S. Torque the nut on the new pin to 150 lbs before you put the cotter key in. Wipe the new trumpet gaskets w/ warm water & let them set a few minutes before you put them on. Make sure you use your favorite gasket sealer. Torque the 11 trumpet studs to 40 lbs.

Beware of mission creep. Once you see the 60 years of crud in the rear end, you will want t odrop the pump & clean taht as well. And replace the PTO seal.

Just post back if you need help on any of that.
50 Tips

grandpaclint · Mar 8, 2010

(quoted from post at 19:11:03 03/08/10) To get to it, you need to remove the axle trumpet. If you remove the left trumpet, you can do them both at the same time. It's held on by a castelated nut w/ a cotter key on the inside. Drain the fluid (see tips 3 & 4, below) Remove the left trumpet & slide the differential gear out. (an engine hoist is a good idea) Make sure the holes are not wallowed out or you will be in there again. I hear JB Weld works, but I've never had the problem so I can't say for sure. Referring to p. 57 in the Master Parts catalog (you have one, right?), the pin you need to replace is p/n 563. The hole which may be wallowed out is in the trumpet, p/n 4012 or 4013. The nut that holds the pin on (which is inside the differential housing) is p/n 33860-S. The cotter key is p/n 72035-S. Torque the nut on the new pin to 150 lbs before you put the cotter key in. Wipe the new trumpet gaskets w/ warm water & let them set a few minutes before you put them on. Make sure you use your favorite gasket sealer. Torque the 11 trumpet studs to 40 lbs.

Beware of mission creep. Once you see the 60 years of crud in the rear end, you will want t odrop the pump & clean taht as well. And replace the PTO seal.

Just post back if you need help on any of that.
50 Tips

thanks a lot, that doesn't sound all that bad
this old man can do that

thanks again

Clint

souNdguy · Mar 8, 2010

are you saying that the big upper lift arms are leaking? Since there is no oil up there, I can only guess you have a high pressure leak in the lift cover perhaps at the cyl that is spraying back there making them leak. pull the inspection cover and look up in there for squirts and sprays. might be from unde rthe cyl to top cover or from the standpipe or even cyl mouth.

to answer your question. normally the bushings are a bear as it's hard to get the rockshaft apart and out. can be done.. but you can also bust your lift cover doing it. there should be no leak up there even with loosey goosey bushings.. simply no oil pooled up that high in the sump.. so it's gotta be being sprayed up there..

soundguy

JMOR · Mar 8, 2010

(quoted from post at 14:48:24 03/08/10) are you saying that the big upper lift arms are leaking? Since there is no oil up there, I can only guess you have a high pressure leak in the lift cover perhaps at the cyl that is spraying back there making them leak. pull the inspection cover and look up in there for squirts and sprays. might be from unde rthe cyl to top cover or from the standpipe or even cyl mouth.

to answer your question. normally the bushings are a bear as it's hard to get the rockshaft apart and out. can be done.. but you can also bust your lift cover doing it. there should be no leak up there even with loosey goosey bushings.. simply no oil pooled up that high in the sump.. so it's gotta be being sprayed up there..

soundguy

Probably a lift arm/lift link terminology problem. :roll:

1943 2n-leaking

grandpaclint

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Bruce (VA)

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grandpaclint

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souNdguy

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JMOR

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