$60 EI is Installed and working

nondem

Member
I see what folks meant by the instructions being crappy. The "kit" I got included the stuff to completely remove the square can coil and replace it with a cover-plate with a spark plug like terminal sticking out of it.
What I didn't like was that it comes with a new distributor cap the terminal screws in to. That would mean the one you can find at any TSC won't work - I assume the screw-in terminal capable cap would be harder to find.

So - I only used the new igniter plate that goes in the distributor and replaces the plate the points mount to. I kept my gutted square can and the standard crab-cap. The instructions would lead you to believe that there is no need to set the timing. Just said to center the new stud/nut in the adjustment range(even had a pic).

The two wires just connect to both terminals on the coil, red to the positive/key side, black to the other...thats it. My system has an inline resistor on the key side.


It sure starts and runs better and has 'hotter' spark :) JUST KIDDING!

I am happy with it right now.

I did think of one question: I already lost the instructions but I think they said something about at 3 ohm coil needed. If I get the NAPA coil that doesn't need a resistor - do I need to be concerned about "injuring" the EI?

This coil is obviously VERY old, I'd like to replace it. My OHM meter showed as low as 2.x ohms while I was checking across the coil terminals. Dunno if that tells anything usefull
 
when you say napa coil.. if you are refering to the 3 ohm napa ic14sb, then it should be fine with the ei.

beware.. the older modules will/can die if you leave the key on and the engine is not running.

soundguy
 
nondem.......NO! NO!! NO!!!......you write......"The two wires just connect to both terminals on the coil, red to the positive/key side, black to the other...thats it. My system has an inline resistor on the key side".......the RED wire hassta connect straight to yer ignition switch ON at full battery volts, NO RESISTOR in the EI line.....but you still need a 12-to-6v converting resistor unless you use the NAPA 14IC-SB which uses NO RESISTOR EVER. Understand??? ......Dell
 
(quoted from post at 22:01:31 02/04/10) nondem.......NO! NO!! NO!!!......you write......"The two wires just connect to both terminals on the coil, red to the positive/key side, black to the other...thats it. My system has an inline resistor on the key side".......the RED wire hassta connect straight to yer ignition switch ON at full battery volts, NO RESISTOR in the EI line.....but you still need a 12-to-6v converting resistor unless you use the NAPA 14IC-SB which uses NO RESISTOR EVER. Understand??? ......Dell

Thanks for offering the info Dell - particularly considering your opinion of EI and my previous assholery - but now I've got questions...
The instructions don't mention any resistor and the pathetic diagram just shows a wire from the key switch to the coil. Unless I get the new napa coil that doesn't need a resistor - I'll need to connect the resistor to the coil and then connect the key(+) wire and the red EI wire to each other - then connect that to the resistor. Is that what you are saying I need to do?
Having said all this - It fires right up and runs PERFECT right now. What should I read into that?
 
nondem.......ok, remember I have CRS, (cna't remember stuff) nowhere have you specifically said your tractor is 12-volts but that is semi-implied when you start talking about the NAPA roundcan IC14SB which is a true 12v coil that never needs a 12-to-6v conversion resistor.

Nowhere have you specifically said what the EI voltage specs are, (I'm assuming 12v neg ground) but that is semi-implied by yer original interpretation of the poorly written EI instructions which said to connect the EI power to the coil terminal.

Iff'n you run yer new 12v EI off'n yer 12-to-6v converting resistor, I'm surprized it even runs.

Now pay attention!!! Iff'n you connect the EI red to the ignition ON terminal and then connect to the resistor as you describe, you will SHORT-OUT yer 12-to-6v converting resistor and apply 12-volts direct to yer 6-volt coil. NOT GOOD.

Bottom line; you need 2-wires connected to yer ignition switch ON terminal. 1-wire to the 12-to-6v converting resistor which is then connected to yer coil. RED wire to directly to power yer EI. And naturally, the BLACK to the otherside of the coil which is the POINTS connection. understand???? ......Dell
 
(quoted from post at 11:53:39 02/05/10) nondem.......ok, remember I have CRS, (cna't remember stuff) nowhere have you specifically said your tractor is 12-volts but that is semi-implied when you start talking about the NAPA roundcan IC14SB which is a true 12v coil that never needs a 12-to-6v conversion resistor.

Nowhere have you specifically said what the EI voltage specs are, (I'm assuming 12v neg ground) but that is semi-implied by yer original interpretation of the poorly written EI instructions which said to connect the EI power to the coil terminal.

Iff'n you run yer new 12v EI off'n yer 12-to-6v converting resistor, I'm surprized it even runs.

Now pay attention!!! Iff'n you connect the EI red to the ignition ON terminal and then connect to the resistor as you describe, you will SHORT-OUT yer 12-to-6v converting resistor and apply 12-volts direct to yer 6-volt coil. NOT GOOD.

Bottom line; you need 2-wires connected to yer ignition switch ON terminal. 1-wire to the 12-to-6v converting resistor which is then connected to yer coil. RED wire to directly to power yer EI. And naturally, the BLACK to the otherside of the coil which is the POINTS connection. understand???? ......Dell

I must have not explained it clearly - the way I described connecting it would not have shorted.
What I was describing was connecting the EI red wire "above" the resistor in the circuit. So the EI red would be connected to the key(+) wire BEFORE the key(+) wire connected to the resister which in turn is connected to the (+) side of the coil.
Although a lot of this isn't making sense - the resistor is still in the circuit in any case which would mean that anything in the that circuit would only see the reduced voltage right?
 
(quoted from post at 14:04:25 02/05/10)
(quoted from post at 11:53:39 02/05/10) nondem.......ok, remember I have CRS, (cna't remember stuff) nowhere have you specifically said your tractor is 12-volts but that is semi-implied when you start talking about the NAPA roundcan IC14SB which is a true 12v coil that never needs a 12-to-6v conversion resistor.

Nowhere have you specifically said what the EI voltage specs are, (I'm assuming 12v neg ground) but that is semi-implied by yer original interpretation of the poorly written EI instructions which said to connect the EI power to the coil terminal.

Iff'n you run yer new 12v EI off'n yer 12-to-6v converting resistor, I'm surprized it even runs.

Now pay attention!!! Iff'n you connect the EI red to the ignition ON terminal and then connect to the resistor as you describe, you will SHORT-OUT yer 12-to-6v converting resistor and apply 12-volts direct to yer 6-volt coil. NOT GOOD.

Bottom line; you need 2-wires connected to yer ignition switch ON terminal. 1-wire to the 12-to-6v converting resistor which is then connected to yer coil. RED wire to directly to power yer EI. And naturally, the BLACK to the otherside of the coil which is the POINTS connection. understand???? ......Dell

I must have not explained it clearly - the way I described connecting it would not have shorted.
What I was describing was connecting the EI red wire "above" the resistor in the circuit. So the EI red would be connected to the key(+) wire BEFORE the key(+) wire connected to the resister which in turn is connected to the (+) side of the coil.
Although a lot of this isn't making sense - the resistor is still in the circuit in any case which would mean that anything in the that circuit would only see the reduced voltage right?
OW! Communications sure can be difficult can't it? It may be time for a simple drawing/sketch.
 

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