Valve Seat Question

SethOhio1

New User
Hello,
This may be a weird question, but when you order new valve seats are they ready to just put in once the old ones are removed? or do they need to be cut because of spring retention or some other spec.?
 
you will have to cut or grind them after they are installed. Takes special tools to do it too. And by special, I mean expensive.
 

Yep will have to be cut to match the hole

SBI seat numbers
INTAKE ) SB1348E-1N
Zaust) SB1625-1

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
Valve seats are swedged in (block warm-Valve seat super cool) we used CO2 extinguisher on new valve seat. Consequently the old has to be ground out
Best to have an automotive rebuilder do it with special tools and "experience"
Charlie
 
Alright, I was just wondering because I saw a video on Youtube of a guy just installing the valve seat and lapping the new valve to the new seat. Is this wrong? It should be cut in and then lapped? Here is the link in case anyone wants to see. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGQYiaL1m7g
 
Here's my antique KO Lee seat refacer with pilot to match the bores in the block where the guides go. It's a perfect match... an antique tool to repair an antique engine!

<img src = "http://www.gondtc.com/~blweltin/Bob/SeatGrinder.jpg">

Here's the jig to true up the stone:

<img src = "http://www.gondtc.com/~blweltin/Bob/ValveSeatGrinder.JPG">
 
You're best bet is cut or grind the angle in. Alot of work and money would be wasted trying to get cheap on it now. Atleast you only need one angle with the new seats. Old worn seats end up needing 2 or 3 angles to make them work. I lucked out and had an old mechanic come out and ground them right in my garage for $75.
 
I watched the video and I hope somebody doesn't follow it. No 1. If a valve seat turns in the block, and can be pried out "its bad news for the block" and any subsequent valve seat will not last, as the Hole is to big. I've tapped a valve seat in a Briggs and stranton back in and expanded the aluminun block area around it with a
"puncture wound punch" and its still holding after 2 years. I wouldnt want tobe the next person that buys the tractor.
We used the square part of the valve seat grinder to grind out most of the seat and then "broke" the thin seat remaining.
#2 "Lapping" is a "backyard Model T" method rarely used with modern vavle seat refacers.
 

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