1952 Oil Leak

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 26, 2009

I am leaking oil out of the front of the tractor. The leak is not a great leak, but it has recently started. This picture is underneath the front of the tractor at the shield of the crank shaft. I wonder if I am having blown gasket between the oil pan and the block or if it is a rope seal on the front end. FYI, the gasket was replaced about two years ago with the blue goop.

Dunk · Dec 26, 2009

My figuring it is the rope seal, and not an unsual thing, most rope seals leak a bit.

Not a problem as long as you keep your oil checked.

These tractors weren't meant to be kept on fancy concrete garage floors, they were meant to keep the dust down on dirt floors.

_____

One thing for sure, they didn't crap all over the floor like the horses that they replaced...

Dean · Dec 26, 2009

Most likely it's the crankshaft seal or, less likely, the governor gasket but you will not know until you investigate yourself. This cannot be diagnosed further online.

Thoroughly clean (degrease, pressure wash, etc.,) the front of the engine and front axle support and carefully watch for evidence of oil as you use it thereafter.

Dean

Tom N MS · Dec 26, 2009

First mistake..Blue goop. Had a leak on my Dad"s 2N a few months ago. Could see it was at the left front corner.Could see it from the top bubbling out. When I disassembled it the short end that turns at the corner and goes over to the rope seal was dislocated to the inside--probably from overtightening. I replaced the pan gasket and went back with the one piece front crank seal(first experience with this). Anyway, no leaks. May as well swing the front, drop the pan and fix it..

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 26, 2009

Tom,

I am liable to wait until it gets worse and if it does I will fix it. But should I get a wild hair, where did you get that one piece seal rather than the two piece rope seal?

I figure a good bath tomorrow will be in order for the tractor. Then after letting it run for an hour or so I will know for certain where the leak comes from.

Thanks All.

Tom N MS · Dec 26, 2009

NAPA #550199

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 26, 2009

Two further questions:

1. When doing this job will I need to remove the hood? It seem obvious that I should, but the I&T manual is silent on this.

2. If I have the oil pan down, I assume I ought to replace the rear as well as the front seals. Can the whole rubber seal work for the rear crankshaft seal as it can for the front? Or is using the rope seal better for the rear seal?

Thanks.

Hobo,NC · Dec 26, 2009

Its hard to tell by the pix,,, clean it up then if its leaking down the side of the pan its possible its a timing cover gasket issue,,, if it leaks from under the axle support it a possible front seal/ crank pulley worn out issue.

Really does not matter the fronts coming off to repair it,,, replace the crank pulley if it shows any kind of ware were the seal runs...

If I wanted to spend the time I dye the oil and use a ultra violent light to detect the dye...

one other possibility is the plug for the oil pressure relief valve is leaking at the plug gasket...

oil leaks on a worn out engine are difficult to stop if not impossible,,, hows the blow by...

I had a 2n back in the summer that had a cracked crank pulley,,, it was also worn out were the seal ran,,, just installed a new pulley and it does not leak a drop,,, sometimes ya gets lucky...

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 26, 2009

These parts websites show two pulleys. Which one should I get, if needed? It is a simple run of the mill 1952 8n.

Hobo,NC · Dec 27, 2009

192160,,, and toss the OEM crank bolt and use a 5/8X1" NF bolt to nail it down are if ya gotta use the OEM bolt counter sink the center hole in the replacement pulley

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

Tom N MS · Dec 27, 2009

Most folks just replace the bottom half of the rear rope seal. Press it into the groove good using something like the side of a big socket then trim it. Leave it sticking up about 1/16" so the ends will contact and seal off against the ends of the upper rope seal. If you have to replace the crank pulley, dry fit it before you start installing the front cover..new one I got was junk..Inside diameter was way too small. Already had front cover on and sealed up so my Dad and I sanded and sanded for hours and finally got it on.Bad, new pulley added at least two hours to the simple job. Good luck.

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 27, 2009

I pressure washed the tractor today and found the leak at the front seal. You could see a thin vein of oil dripping down from behind the pulley. Also, there was some motor oil leaking, a few drips, from the cotter key as I recall the threads on this site, that means the the rear ropes seal is toast too. I figure that as long as I have the pan down I might as well do this thing right.

Thanks for the tip on the crank pulley not being OEM specs--in some cases.

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 27, 2009

Hobo or Anyone,

What does the "NF" in 5/8x1 NF mean? I can sometimes be thick headed.

Thanks.

DollarBill · Dec 28, 2009

"National Fine" as opposed to course threads.

G6 at Snook, TX · Dec 28, 2009

Thanks.

wwildhorse2k · Dec 28, 2009

The two that are shown are plain and the one that is drilled for the loader pump I would get the drilled one. The two pulleys that I replaced were bored too small to get over the shaft. I had to use a brake hone to enlarge the hole enough to tap it over the shaft. I used the NAPA #550199 seal to eliminate the rope one my current project -- we'll see how it goes. On both of the old pulleys that I replaced the area where the seal rides was really worn. On one of the tractors that I replaced the pulley on the leak stopped once the pulley was replaced. I did have to grind a smooth chamfer on the end of the pulley and grease it to drive it in and not cut the seal.

HTH

- Mark

G6 at Snook, TX · Jan 1, 2010

Three more related questions:

1. When I drop the pan, about how heavy is it? I will have a helper, but I am trying to get an idea of what weight I should expect.

2. In the oil pan repair gasket kit, they have two sets of rope seals. One set is larger than the other. Which rope seal goes on the rear seal?

3. I plan on using the neoprene seal on the front end and looking at the exploded schematics, I should expect the seal to fit on the crankshaft on the front end?

Thanks. I have time off from school and I decided to go ahead and do this project while I can.

DollarBill · Jan 2, 2010

1. The pan weights about 20-30 lbs. You should be able to handle it by yourself.

2. It will be hard getting a consensus on the rope seals. Main thing is you roll them into the block/cap as tight as you can. Some use a big socket.

The camps are split on whether you soak them in oil or not.

No apparent reason for color coding.

No distinction between front and rear or top or bottom of seal.

Here's what I did for the rear main: Dipped rope in oil, left both top and bottom proud by .030. Ultra gray RTV on the seal ends. I'm getting about 3 drips over a 24 hour period.

The next time (and there will be a next time) I will install the rope dry. Use the hardening Permatex Gasket Maker in the block/cap groove before rolling in the rope seal. Seal the ends with the same Gasket Maker.

3. Front seal fits in the same groove as your rope seal would. Make sure to seal the metal part of the seal to the cam cover - top and bottom.

Good luck and let us know what worked for you.

G6 at Snook, TX · Jan 2, 2010

"Metal part of the seal" refers to the inverted side of the neoprene seal that has the thin little metal band around it. And looking at the exploded schematics of the motor, the oil slinger will then fit into the seal.

Correct?

DollarBill · Jan 2, 2010

"Metal" is the outer part of the seal as opposed to the "rubber" that contacts the crankshaft. Seals are normally received by a housing and supported from 360 degrees. You will be putting the new style seal where half of it will be supported by the block and the other half by the oil pan. The mating surface of the block and oil pan is a potential oil leak if not sealed properly. The neoprene seal fits in the groove where the rope seal would normally fit.

Kinda hard to explain - does that help?

I have had good luck with Permatex Gasket Maker - The hardening variety. (They make two kinds. One gets hard and the other stays pliable)

G6 at Snook, TX · Jan 2, 2010

Let me try it this way: If you look at the seal it has two sides one that is flat and smooth and the opposite that is not and has two ridges on it with the inner ridge with a metal band on it. Which way does the smooth side face? The block or the pulley?

If you were standing next to me and had it in your hand it would work in two seconds, but writing it out is sometimes a bit harder, especially when you have a thick headed fellow like me.

1952 Oil Leak

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads