Ford 8n front snow plow update:

Brent(InMich) · Dec 23, 2009

Just wanted to update on the plow I installed on my 8n, Not a good setup, the 3pt is not the way to go, I had it fold over and broke the winch cable, filled my shorts

I going to try to put some skid shoes on, so not let the blade dig down thru the snow into the dirt... bad answer. if that don't work.. back to the drawing board. It works ok if you keep the blade up a couple inches, but the chance still exist if a dip is hit. Thought I was on to something better than backing up but not so.

Brent

willie in mn · Dec 23, 2009

Brent
Hard to tell how to help with that photo angle. Send a side-view, maybe can help then.
Merry Christmas
Willie

Anonymous-0 · Dec 23, 2009

I agree with Willie that a side view would be very helpful, but I still have two thoughts. One is to keep the blade as close to the front wheels as possible to help avoid the blade digging in when a dip is involved. Two is to raise the cable connecting point on the blade above center of the connecting point on the tractor. To determine how high you need to go, you could jack the blade up and then carefully try using the cable. In this case HIGHER is better than lower.

Eldon Booth · Dec 23, 2009

Take a 2" peace of ABS pipe the same length as the blade, using a bench saw put a nice straight cut down the length of it and drive it on the blade edge You may have to use a wire or two to keep it there. That should stop it from digging in. You should also have a way that the blade can brake over from to much load like they do on a light truck or four wheeler set up. A heavy spring in the cable may work. But be prepared to stop!
You need some kind of limiter to stop the blade from going right under the front end, maybe something as simple as a chain from the top link down to the bumper would work. Remember the whole front end of the tractor is held on with one kingpin. So you can’t get to rough with it. It’s sure nice to have the blade on the front!
Cheers
Eldon

Leroy · Dec 23, 2009

First, you need to be pushing from the back axle, not the front, that would keep it from wanting to fold up and then you are too far forward from the front wheels. And the cable lift from the 3 point hitch works good if properly set up. Been using a cable lift since about 1951.

JW Axtell · Dec 23, 2009

(quoted from post at 05:52:20 12/23/09) Just wanted to update on the plow I installed on my 8n, Not a good setup, the 3pt is not the way to go, I had it fold over and broke the winch cable, filled my shorts I going to try to put some skid shoes on, so not let the blade dig down thru the snow into the dirt... bad answer. if that don't work.. back to the drawing board. It works ok if you keep the blade up a couple inches, but the chance still exist if a dip is hit. Thought I was on to something better than backing up but not so.

Brent

Personally I would not run a plow on the front unless it had trip springs. When you hit something solid ( and sooner or later you will) all that energy has to go somewhere in a hurry. This is dangerous for both operator and his equipment.
My neighbor cracked one of his trumpets and broke 4 ribs on the steering wheel when his front plow hit an object that wouldn't move.

Brent(InMich) · Dec 23, 2009

Thanks for the comments, will look at some of the suggestions. I had a post a month or so back with this idea for this front mount setup, and was reporting back that it has some unsafe flaws that I need to address or can it.

Thanks for your interest guys.

JW Axtell · Dec 23, 2009

Aside from trip springs you also should do as Leroy says and run the frame back to the rear axle/trumpets. As you have it now it looks pretty dangerous to man and machine

Bob Harvey · Dec 23, 2009

Creative, BUT, the whole unit should be attached to the rear axle (more strongerester). I can see front axle problems in the not too distant future (Bending, deflecting, breaking) HTH+ MC+HNY

Brent(InMich) · Dec 24, 2009

Thanks for the input, this is one of the main reasons I came back after my original post and pics back in Sept, to update and warn so nobody would see this setup and try it thinking that it was a good idea. I am going back and re-think how to run some round or square stock to the brackets on the rear end, I do have a question: What do you use from the front axle to guide the frame work from swaying left to right, I will use the pins under the back axle area to attach the frame which I can see it will not be ridged side to side as it goes toward the front.

Thanks

Brent

JW Axtell · Dec 24, 2009

(quoted from post at 07:40:44 12/24/09) Thanks for the input, this is one of the main reasons I came back after my original post and pics back in Sept, to update and warn so nobody would see this setup and try it thinking that it was a good idea. I am going back and re-think how to run some round or square stock to the brackets on the rear end, I do have a question: What do you use from the front axle to guide the frame work from swaying left to right, I will use the pins under the back axle area to attach the frame which I can see it will not be ridged side to side as it goes toward the front.

Thanks

Brent

Over on the other N tractor site they have a section of old implement guides. This might be a good place to look to get an idea of how the various frames are attached both front and rear.
Personally,when compared to what you are building, I think it would be less expensive and far easier to locate an old system. The engineering is already done. I have an old FEL with a front plow that I bought for around $400.00.

Sean (TX) · Dec 24, 2009

(quoted from post at 07:40:44 12/24/09) Thanks for the input, this is one of the main reasons I came back after my original post and pics back in Sept, to update and warn so nobody would see this setup and try it thinking that it was a good idea. I am going back and re-think how to run some round or square stock to the brackets on the rear end, I do have a question: What do you use from the front axle to guide the frame work from swaying left to right, I will use the pins under the back axle area to attach the frame which I can see it will not be ridged side to side as it goes toward the front.

Thanks

Brent

Take a look at the other boards how to's. Farmer Dan built a front plow. He also uses a winch.

lonestarjeff · Dec 24, 2009

Nice idea to try & use the 3-point blade in front. I had tried to sketch out something similar, but couldn't come up w/ a hard attaching point up front. Nice work on the bracket you fabricated for the front attachment, too.

Another attachment point I've used for other implements is the bolt-up point under the rear diffy. In fact, I think one of the guys on the forum has some good pics of an original dozer bracket that bolts up under there. It has a pipe frame that runs from the front & tapers as it meets up w/ the bracket in back. The stabilizer/guide brackets(as I recall)hang off the front axle to limit side-to-side movement.

Jeff

Kurt-NEPA · Dec 24, 2009

Maybe a frame like this would work. Its an ARPS, but looks like it would not be too hard to fabricate. It uses front and rear brackets with cables to the hydraulics.

I have more details if you need em.

Kurt-NEPA

Ford 8n front snow plow update:

Brent(InMich)

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willie in mn

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Anonymous-0

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Eldon Booth

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Leroy

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JW Axtell

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Brent(InMich)

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JW Axtell

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Bob Harvey

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Brent(InMich)

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JW Axtell

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Sean (TX)

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lonestarjeff

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Kurt-NEPA

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