posthole digger for 8n

I recently purchased a 1947 8n Ford tractor. Blades are a dime a dozen but I am looking for a post hole digger to use on my tractor. Most I have found are more that I paid for tractor. Is that the way it is??? or is there diggers out there used & in good condition & not so pricey????

Gene.......yep, NEW post hole diggers "are" expensive. USED post hole diggers (PHD) are usually available at equipment auctions ...or... CragsList. Enny 3-point CAT-1 PHD will fit. Remember, used prices are subject to "negotiation"

And remember PHD have "no-reverse" so they can screw themselves into the ground and pull yer tractor frontend up into the air. (BTDT) I have one posthole that is 3-ft dia. It caught itself on a tree root.

Small diameter auger and slow rpms is the way to go. Surprizingly enuff, there is usually NOT enuff dirt leftover to refill the hole with yer new post in it. ......Dell

Gene, I was fortunate enough to to pick up a genuine Danuser PHD back in 1999 for $125. Not bad for a $2500 PHD. It was complete and only required new seals and lube. The PTO shaft crosses could be replaced, but I just haven't had time to do it.

Farm auction typically have PHDs or you can get them at your local farm supply store. Around my neck of the woods you will pay $450-500 for the PHD and another $125 for the auger of your choice.

At $125 I can safely say mine has paid for itself many times over.

I fenced my 3 acre pasture as well as my neighbors 2 acres w/ a phd on my N's. Success w/ a PHD on an N depends on soil type & trees.

I've got very sandy soil, no rocks & no trees. But, once the ground got rock hard w/ no rain in 6 weeks, no more digging. Remember, 23 hp, hydraulics up, gravity down. And, no reverse on the phd, so when you auger it in, you will learn all the tricks to get it out!

I got a used MF PHD....it's a big one....for $250. Other than seals & shear bolts, there is not much to go wrong w/ them. Just check your local used equipment ads.

BTW.....I made a jig w/ an 8 foot pole & two plywood squares w/ 3.5" x 3.5" square holes cut in them on either end. I ran my string line w/ the jig under it & sprayed over the holes. That got me a perfectly straight line w/ marks exactly 8 feet on center. Then, I came back w/ a hand phd & dug out 4-6 inches as a pilot hole. I then could straddle the hole w/ the N, drag the auger up to the pilot hole until the tip dropped in, back up to get the auger at 90*, then start digging. I spray painted a red band on the auger at the desired depths.

W/ all that digging, I only buried the auger twice!

50 Tips

geeeze Bruce......around here, fenceposts are on 10-ft centers, except fer cornorposts and gateposts. I like yer tip about using idiot-sticks to armstrong a pilot hole. Maybe I'll be motivated to finish my "re-build" of my "hydraulic" post pounder now that I'm just gimpin'long. Works great in my rockyridge soil. (grin) ......Dell

A guy I know made a post hole digger from an old auto or truck rear end. I used it once and it worked o.k. I don't remember details of how he did it but it was turned so the axle shafts were vertical and the unit was welded to a 3 point hitch frame. Probably had to do some adapting for everything to fit.
Good luck.

10 foot, huh? I guess that would work around here as well. But, you know the reason why not: "We've always dome it that way!"

For woven wire cattle fence, we brace & pull every 50' w/ the come-along tied to the tractor. I had to chock the tractor wheels; I'd honk down on the come-along & the tractor would move before the wire started to bend. You get a really tight & strong fence w/ all that tension on it.

The amount of left over dirt depends on the phase of the moon. If you set posts with the moon waning, you will have less dirt that if you set them while the moon is waxing.

I am partial to the heavy Danuser F8. We have had other diggers and they often just spin around, especially with no downward pressure. The Danuser gets after it. Anyhow, we normally use a JD990 to drill the holes with because it has live pto and hydraulics. Lastly, whatever you buy, make sure the actual auger has good teeth and a new point. It makes a big difference.