3 Point Hitch problems

Now that the tractor is running I get no movement on the 3 point hitch. What should I check first. Let me be the first to say that this is my first tractor and that I have exhausted all me experience on the engine to get it to run. I have zero knowlegde of how the 3 point hitch works. Don't have a clue what lever does what. The PTO turns fine.
 
BC:

Firstly, verify that the oil in the transmission/hydraulic/differential sump is at the proper level.

Secondly, make sure that the PTO is engaged and the engine is running.

Thirdly, verify that the small draft/position control lever beneath the seat is in the up (vertical) position.

Dean
 

Dean, Not sure on the oil for the transmission. Pulled the dipstick and it looks NASTY. I have been told the 3 point only works with the PTO running but mine still doesn't work. The lever you speak of is in the vertical position. I can only put it in the horizontal position when I manually lift up on the 3 point hitch.
 
BC,

Once you answered the three earlier questions and you are still not have any luck with it going up or down, I suggest you remove the observation hole on the right side of the tractor. It is the tranny dipstick about where your right heel sits. Open it up. Take a look at your fluid and its texture color. Look for squirts and turbulence around the pump. Check and see if the rod that fits into the control moves when you move your touch control lever. Report back and let us know what you see.

Pulling that cover is an easy ten minute job. The only thing you might need when you replace it is a new gasket and they can be gotten from here or from your nearest Case New Holland shop.
 

Thanks G6. I will try and do this today and report back. I suspect the fluid is in BAD shape based on what I saw on the dipstick. I assume the fluid is below the inspection hole?
 
Another question is that I have a lot of dirt inside the rim on the left rear tire. I read somewhere on this board that this could be caused by too much fluid. I think that is what it said. Can someone confirm this?
 
I may be corrected, but inside the hub or bell housing you might have troubles. Inside the rim of the tire I wouldn't think it related. But before you tilt at this problem, I suggest you give it a good cleaning around the brake housing and wheel. Then put a good clean piece of card board or something that will show up a dripping seal or whatever it may be. Hopefully, you will find it is only dirty and not a leak.

If it turns out to be a leak I suggest you consult the I&T manual and John Smith's excellent website on how to take it apart and put it back together.
 
Removed the cover and took some pics. What do you think?

156su92.jpg

245x2li.jpg

2s6qc09.jpg

jpk7b6.jpg

30ldls3.jpg

24n4ni8.jpg

23iexrd.jpg
 
Probably a lot of moisture contamination in that 'milk'. Drain all three plugs (differential, hyd, transmission (common fluid, cavities coupled) and flush using hand pump sprayer & diesel or mineral spirits, re-fill with 90W and try to operate it.
hyd_area.jpg
 
'Ell!!!

Start in the middle, and werk yer way to both ends!!!

Translation...

Before you do anything else, while you have the inspection plate off, with the PTO turning, tractor running, weight on lift, look inside for leaks, this is the best way to troubleshoot the lift.

When you move the quadrant to lift does the lever to the bottom, to the pump move? If not move it yourself with a screw driver, look for leaks in that inspection hole.

Do any leaks come from the top?

The side?

Unusual amount of turbulance at the rear of the pump?
 

Thanks for the help Dunk. Hopefully I can get to it this week sometime. If not it will be Saturday before I can look at it again.
 

Alright guys I haven't had time to work on this but I should start on it either tonight or tomorrow morning. Is it possible that the fluid is just low and nasty and the hydraulics will work once the new fluid is installed?

Are the hydraulics a must to use a bush hog and a disc?

I am almost at the end of my money tree on this project. If the new fluid and cleaning doesn't fix it I may just put it away until the new money tree grows.
 
The pictures you showed us from earlier in the post indicates you have plenty of fluid in it. It may not be pretty, but it is plenty for it to go up and down. I imagine you are going to find a major leak in one of the chambers or the ram cylinder. Of course, the control valve could be sticking. Anyhow, I would not hold your breath that new fluid will do the trick.

As for the brush hog and disc needing hydraulics. Yes, and yes. The brush hog you can kinda get away with failing or non-existent hydraulics if you know where you are mowing and can see everything in front of you. If you are in high grass and don't know if fallen limbs or stumps populate the ground, you are asking for major trouble if you send that shredder into that field without functional hydraulics. As for the disc, you need the hydraulics to make sharp turns, and to get to and from the field you intend to disc without tearing up the yard, other fields, or the driveway.

Simply-- you need somewhat functional hydraulics and you don't appear to have them right now.
 

Thanks G6. I don't see any leaks anywhere. Maybe I am missing something. When the engine is running and the PTO is running there is obvious movement in the middle of the pump. Wish I had a better understanding of how it all works. I have looked at the schematics and just can't figure it out. Wish one of you lived in Houston so I could pay you to come look at it for me. I imagine there is something simple wrong.
 
The control valve in the tractor (the valve the rod fits into) move when you move the touch control? If you have sever turbulence you would likely have a safety relief valve failure, but that is not what it sounds like.
 

Don't worry about not knowing how the hydraulics work - we all started where you are now. You'll learn a lot quickly.

First - Follow Zane's troubleshooting guide - He's the guru and knows these things inside and out. Quite helpful too.

Second - The system is very hard to figure out by trying to read about it. - Take one apart and things make much more sense. They are not hard to work on and unless the pump is gone, not too expensive either. Your problem does not sound like a bad pump to me.

Third - Check the easy stuff first, don't go taking it apart yet. You said no leaks. OK. When you had in inspection cover off, did moving the UP-DOWN lever move the vertical lever rod that goes from the top cover the the back of the pump? If no movement, you probably have a linkage problem. If the lever moves, does any thing happen inside.

Fourth - Keep posting - we'll get you through it.

Kurt-NEPA
 
Well I have it drained out and there is plenty of gunk in the bottom. Here are a couple of pics with the fluid drained. Everything seems to be working alright. What should I check before I fill? Having a hard time seeing much thru the inspection hole.

19b3ep.jpg

micfm0.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:29:48 08/28/09)

First - Follow Zane's troubleshooting guide - He's the guru and knows these things inside and out. Quite helpful too. Kurt-NEPA

He (Zane) is the "Head Afro Engineer", around here, to quote a phrase recently used by old.
 
(quoted from post at 19:36:11 08/28/09) Well I have it drained out and there is plenty of gunk in the bottom. Here are a couple of pics with the fluid drained. Everything seems to be working alright. What should I check before I fill? Having a hard time seeing much thru the inspection hole.

19b3ep.jpg

micfm0.jpg

Check this:
control_arm_valve.jpg


You might want to consider starting out with just enough fluid to reach a level to about center-to-top of the overpressure safety relief valve. You will be able to better see what is going on at that point & level will be above pump suction.
 
(quoted from post at 20:09:44 08/28/09) JMOR. In the pics the lever is in the full up position. There is roughly another 1/2" of play. What does this mean?
he lift control quadrant has 4 bolts thru slotted holes & when loosened, it can be slid fore & aft. This will probably make it possible to remove your 1/2 inch gap.

2 of 4 are marked in red
quadrantadjust.jpg
 

Made the adjustment and most of the play has been removed.

I plan on cleaning it in the morning with diesel and then refilling and see what happens. Hopefully it will work. But if not I think I am done for the time being. Only problem I have is that the gaskets on the drain plugs need to be replaced. Hopefully my local tractor supply will have replacements.
 
(quoted from post at 22:44:25 08/28/09)
Made the adjustment and most of the play has been removed.

I plan on cleaning it in the morning with diesel and then refilling and see what happens. Hopefully it will work. But if not I think I am done for the time being. Only problem I have is that the gaskets on the drain plugs need to be replaced. Hopefully my local tractor supply will have replacements.

I use Budweiser 12 pack boxes to cut my drain gaskets out of.
 
(quoted from post at 22:59:36 08/28/09)
Thanks Dunk. I have a Miller Lite 18 Pack Box in the trash I can make some out of if it will work.

Should werk great!!!
 

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