brush hog blades

Windy · May 30, 2009

Got a brush hog behind my '51 8n. Took a look under it. Has two blades attached to a round disk, disk of course spins. One of the blades points straight out from the disk. The other blade points at an angle from the disk. Normal or do I have a problem? Sorry, have no idea what brush hog I have... 4' hog with one wheel behind the hog.. bout all I know.
Windy

soqueu · May 30, 2009

The blades are normal. It is designed to flod back whem you strike logs, bolders, and ant thing that would damage the cutting deck. The blades straighten out when you are running it. If it wobbles and shakes horribly the blade might be stuck in that position.

Windy · May 30, 2009

Thanks for clearing that up for me, soquen. Wasn't sure if I need to be concerned or not.
Headed out for some peaceful seat time....
Windy

rmlarsen · May 30, 2009

While you are under there. take a look at the conditin of the blades. After a summer of hoggin", my blades get rounded off and I'm beating the grass to death instead of curring it off. they may need sharpening.

Kenster · May 30, 2009

Windy, you might double check that both blades swing freely and that they are not stuck in one position. You should be able to raise the hog, shut everything down. Then reach under and grab the end of each blade and see if they will swing freely.
Before you reach too far, or crawl under there, prop the hog up with something heavy duty. I have a few four by six posts cut to just length too prop up the deck so I can get under there to sharpen the blades once or twice a year.

Anonymous-0 · May 30, 2009

It's normal, like the other folks have said. You might want to crack the nuts loose on each, shoot it with some light oil, work them around and re-tighten the nuts if it's been sitting a while.
[Caution...Entering the rant zone]
On brush hog blade "sharpening"...leave about a 1/16" flat or radius on the leading edge! They are NOT grass-mowing blades, they are vegetation-smashing blades. Go look at a new set...they ain't "sharp"! Sharpening just wastes time and wears them out faster.
[Whew...Exiting the rant zone] ;=)

Jerry/MT · May 30, 2009

Make sure you have an over runnning clutch(ORC) on the PTO before you use it with a rotary cutter. Your 8N has a transmission driven pto and if you try to stop by stepping on the clutch and the brakes, the inertia from the rotary cutter will continue to push your tractor, and make stopping difficult.

Kevin in MN · May 31, 2009

How much up-down play should there be? Also is there a trick to getting the blades off? I have a 5' Mowhawk and trying to take the blade nut off and the shaft turns, with a round head it hard to get a good grip on it.

gahorN · May 31, 2009

(quoted from post at 20:37:02 05/30/09) It's normal, like the other folks have said. You might want to crack the nuts loose on each, shoot it with some light oil, work them around and re-tighten the nuts if it's been sitting a while.
[Caution...Entering the rant zone]
On brush hog blade "sharpening"...leave about a 1/16" flat or radius on the leading edge! They are NOT grass-mowing blades, they are vegetation-smashing blades. Go look at a new set...they ain't "sharp"! Sharpening just wastes time and wears them out faster.
[Whew...Exiting the rant zone] ;=)

Those are good words. Rhino instructs a 1/8" flat leading edge, with a sharp 90-degree tip (don't let the end of the blade become "scimitar" or curved, but re-grind to a square-ended blade.) Never use heat to heat and beat a blade, like some blacksmith-types recommend, because that will remove the temper of the blade. Do not overheat the blade when grinding. When 1/2" of material is removed from original blade dimensions, they recommend complete blade and bolt replacements.

Windy · May 31, 2009

Yep, got an ORC on her! 'Cause i have read all the 'stories'!! And yep, blocked the hog up before sticking any body part under it!

What i did was push the blade(s) with a stick and the disk turned freely. However, when i pushed each blade they did not appear free... & not sure how 'free' they should be or feel. Guess I'll take the advise & loosen then wd-40 them a bit.
Thanks to all,
Windy

gahorN · May 31, 2009

(quoted from post at 13:45:47 05/31/09)

(quoted from post at 20:37:02 05/30/09) It's normal, like the other folks have said. You might want to crack the nuts loose on each, shoot it with some light oil, work them around and re-tighten the nuts if it's been sitting a while.
[Caution...Entering the rant zone]
On brush hog blade "sharpening"...leave about a 1/16" flat or radius on the leading edge! They are NOT grass-mowing blades, they are vegetation-smashing blades. Go look at a new set...they ain't "sharp"! Sharpening just wastes time and wears them out faster.
[Whew...Exiting the rant zone] ;=)

Click to expand...

Those are good words. Rhino instructs a 1/8" flat leading edge, with a sharp 90-degree tip (don't let the end of the blade become "scimitar" or curved, but re-grind to a square-ended blade.) Never use heat to heat and beat a blade, like some blacksmith-types recommend, because that will remove the temper of the blade. Do not overheat the blade when grinding. When 1/2" of material is removed from original blade dimensions, they recommend complete blade and bolt replacements.

Sorry for my "typo".....GVT said it correctly.... the edge should be 1/16" ... and not a knife-edge. (My 1/8" was a typo.)

brush hog blades

Windy

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soqueu

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Windy

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rmlarsen

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Kenster

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Anonymous-0

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Jerry/MT

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Kevin in MN

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gahorN

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Windy

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gahorN

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