1952 8N Running bad under load/needs choke

Drew B

Member
I have a 52' 8N 12v. and it has worked fine for sometime now and just a few weeks ago i replaced the points, condencer, and roter. After that it ran fine for about 30min or so and then started running bad under a load, I checked the points and they were slightly off I also checked all the fuel screens and they are clean (as of about a month ago new plugs, and wires) I got it back running right again and it did it again about 30-45 min later. I checked the points again and they were slightly off so i fixed them and replaced the distributer cap because it was bad. Now today I went to plow some snow (yes snow in oklahoma in march very odd) and it fired right up and ran about 5min and then just died, It started right back up and would only run with a little choke, I got it to warm up and run without the choke again and went to back out to plow and it started running bad again and would try to die. I could keep it going with a little choke but not well enough to even move it, it just would idle. What is up with this? Thanks for all the help.
 
Needs choke all the time usually means too lean. Air leak or crudded up carb needs a D&C (dusting & cleaning). Spray carb cleaner around intake manifold & carb gaskets while running & not location if engine runs differently as you spray.
 

Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment will also cause this problem; have you been fooling w/ the main jet adjustment lately? Put it back at 1 1/2 turns out & leave it alone.

Dirty/old gas, or water in the gas can cause this problem. Add some HEET (alcohol) to the gas.

Remove the distributor cap & check for moisture.

Restricted fuel flow can cause this problem; remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb & check for flow.

On my 1950 frontmount, needing choke to run is the first sign that the points need adjusting/replacing. Your point gap should be .025; is that what you are using?

And, finally, a vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak.

Bottom line: by far, most "needs choke to run" problems a fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

Please be sure to post back & let us know what the fix was. We all learn something if you tell us what worked!
50 Tips
 
DREW Where in oklahoma are you located.I'm in Earlsboro,35 miles east of OKC It snowed here but nothing stuck to the ground.9N OKIE
 
Drew.......it aint'chur points and it aint'chur carb, its'chur sparkie wires. you doubt?

You write....."just a few weeks ago i replaced the points, condencer, and roter. After that it ran fine for about 30min or so and then started running bad under a load........(as of about a month ago new plugs, and wires)".......you don't suppose there is a "relationship" between replacing yer sparkie wires and yer runnin' bad do you???

These N-Engines are SOOOoooo GOOOoood that they will start and run good on just 2-cylinders ...but... won't have enny power under load. Check yer firing order 1,2,4,3 CCW. Usually sparkies 3&4 gitt miss-connected. ......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
I replaced the Wires and the plugs before the points, condencer, and roter. It didnt start running bad untill the points, condencer, and roter where changed, but I cantfigured out why. Can they be bad even though they were new? I havent had the time but I was going to put the old condencer back in and try that and if that doesnt work then try the points I guess, then keep trying other stuff from there. But atlest eliminate what I did change to start with you know.

Broken Arrow, OK just outside of Tulsa
Drew
 
Well, it won't cost you much to put the old condenser back & yes there have been bad ones right out of the box. Frankly, once you have one that works, I'd keep using it till it doesn't. They all but never fail.
Be sure & look for those vacuum leaks some of us advised you on (propane or carb cleaner).
 

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