1950 Ford 8N New Head Gasket Questions

Hiney · Feb 12, 2009

I have fixed the broken valve and valve springs and have put a new metal head gasket on the tractor and torqued the head according to the F0-4 Manual. I breifly started the tractor to make sure everything sounded okay. I know that you should warm the tractor up for a good 30 minutes and then retorque the head. Before I do that I have some other questions. I have noticed that after reading different posts on this forum, it seems some people put gasket sealer on the head gasket and others don't. Does it depend on the type of gasket you use and should I be using gasket sealer on mine? I also noticed that it was recommended to put thread sealer on the head bolts. When I put mine on I didn't. What type of sealer do you usually use? Can I take them out one at a time and put the sealer on them without draining all the coolant out (given I don't have to take the head back off to put sealer on the head gasket)? Once all the other sealant questions are answered, when do you retorque the head. Right after the 30 minute warm up? Before it is totally cool? After it is totally cool? Sorry for the long post and thanks again for all the help.

-Hiney

Dell (WA) · Feb 12, 2009

Hiney.......NO PUCKEY yer headgasket. Understand???

As for puckey yer headbolts, I used plumbers teflon PASTE. There are others available that work just as well, go shopping.

And yes, you will haffta drain some of yer radiator water iff'n you don't want water to come out yer removed boltholes.

Yes, re-torque after 30-min warmup. I like the head warm to the touch, not burnie-burnie hot. Torque in appropriate sequence, do not loosen and retighten, just pull thru to specification.

NEVER APOLOGIZE for the length of yer post. Unlike Western Union, we don't charge for extra words .......Dell

Hobo,NC · Feb 12, 2009

(quoted from post at 23:25:38 02/12/09) I have fixed the broken valve and valve springs and have put a new metal head gasket on the tractor and torqued the head according to the F0-4 Manual. I breifly started the tractor to make sure everything sounded okay. I know that you should warm the tractor up for a good 30 minutes and then retorque the head. Before I do that I have some other questions. I have noticed that after reading different posts on this forum, it seems some people put gasket sealer on the head gasket and others don't. Does it depend on the type of gasket you use and should I be using gasket sealer on mine? I also noticed that it was recommended to put thread sealer on the head bolts. When I put mine on I didn't. What type of sealer do you usually use? Can I take them out one at a time and put the sealer on them without draining all the coolant out (given I don't have to take the head back off to put sealer on the head gasket)? Once all the other sealant questions are answered, when do you retorque the head. Right after the 30 minute warm up? Before it is totally cool? After it is totally cool? Sorry for the long post and thanks again for all the help.

-Hiney

I would not dream of installing a bare naked metal head gasket on with out a sealer,,, I will never use teflon tread sealer on a head bolt again ever,,, I did once and a few head bolts leaked,,, Never had a head bolt leak usings permatex aviation gasket eliminator,,, I use the same on the gasket as well,,, its 2 late now run it and c what happens

If a head gasket does not require a sealer it should B noted on the gasket are with paper work that comes with the gasket,,, would b interesting to c what the Old Fel-Pro man has to say about this :wink: :wink:

Bob Harvey · Feb 12, 2009

Having a 20-20 hindsight moment ? Sounds like you are 'good to go'.

Old Fel-Pro rep · Feb 12, 2009

You are right, if the head gasket does NOT need a sealer, it will be printed on the package. The old iron did not get updated with the new type of gasket face that needs no sealer.

Here is a curve ball for you. After you install and torque the head gasket, let it sit for 24 Hrs, then retorque by starting at #1 bolt. loosen 1/4 turn, then torque down full. Do this one head bolt at a time. No need to start, run and retorque. The above way will gain back 90% of torque value. Seems strange, but it works!

Old Fel-Pro rep · Feb 12, 2009

BTW, I just replaced the head gasket on my 51 8N (bought from this great site). I spray coated the gasket with a sealer and used #2 Permatex on the new head bolts.

I used the 24 hr retorque way and it worked great.

Gaspump · Feb 13, 2009

Right on Hobo, I learned to always use it back in the early 60's when we had problems with 40+ new Cummins Diesels. After many failures and working with Cummins on the no sealant to be used heads they finally sent a field team to us. They tore down about 6 of them and the field team said they failed because there was no sealant used. Cummins had put out the no sealant edict but their men in the field knew better. I have been involved in scores of overhauls with engines up to 3000 hp and if its a metal to gasket to metal surface sealer is used. I feel this especially important with 50+ year old iron!

1950 Ford 8N New Head Gasket Questions

Hiney

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Dell (WA)

Well-known Member

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member

Bob Harvey

Well-known Member

Old Fel-Pro rep

New User

Old Fel-Pro rep

New User

Gaspump

Well-known Member

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