Leaking 3PT lift arm

Todd 22 · Nov 16, 2008

It appears that I have a leaking lift arm (see picture). What are the possible causes and how hard is it to fix? I’m a novice but would like to tackle this the week of Thanksgiving while I’m off work. What parts and tools to need to line up ahead of time? Please be specific with the name of the parts so I get the correct ones.

Thanks to everyone on the forum who have gotten me this far. To date with forum help I have fixed rebuilt the carb, fixed a stuck value and diagnosed a throttle problem. I owe you guys a beer when you come to the DC area.

ZANE · Nov 16, 2008

To tighten the lift arm attaching pin/bolt you must pull the left side axle and axle housing and then possibly the differential to access the nut that holds the pin. If it is not wallowed out you can just tighten it and put the cotter pin back in and it is fixed. IF it is a little wallowed out I would pull the pin out and clean all the oil off and use some RTV silicone glue around it when installing it and the tighten it good.

Zane

E Vaughan · Nov 16, 2008

Todd,

The lift pin is tapered and should be TIGHT in the housing. I replaced both on my Jubilee. Yes, the left housing and then the ring gear will have to the removed to access the cotter pin and nut on the right side. Be aware of the weight and a "cherry picker" (engine crane) will make the job much easier. I do not remember the thread size but used a generic torque chart to determine how tight the nut should be.

Look at this link to see a picture of the part. Left and right are the same. All counter personnel at YT parts depot are very helpful. I usually talk to Jeff or Dave.

http://www.ytmag.com/store/parts/pics/wm_NCA563C.jpg

Tom N MS · Nov 16, 2008

So if the left side isn't leaking, why pull the left side? Pull the right side and fix it without having to mess with the ring gear assembly?? Pull the right side and lay it out where you can get to it without reaching through..Thats how I did mine...8N has tapered pin..9N/2N has straight pin where it goes through the housing.

Dunk · Nov 16, 2008

(quoted from post at 22:59:17 11/16/08) So if the left side isn't leaking, why pull the left side? Pull the right side and fix it without having to mess with the ring gear assembly?? Pull the right side and lay it out where you can get to it without reaching through..Thats how I did mine...8N has tapered pin..9N/2N has straight pin where it goes through the housing.

LMAO!!!

One thing for shore, you AIN'T WRONG!!!!!

I broke one of mine, and decided to replace them both while I was at it.

So I pulled them both, took them down to the individual pieces, something I could handle with my back.

That diffy sat right where it was, it looked awful heavy.

Don't forgit to swipe the paper gasket with some water so it will fit on the studs.

Tom N MS · Nov 16, 2008

If I am wrong please tell me. I have been wrong many times before and will be wrong again I'm sure..

Dan in CO · Nov 16, 2008

Todd:

I just did the right one on my 2N today. Did it through the PTO opening. Just remove the PTO shaft (drain the hydo fluid first) and get a 15/16th socket on it. Pull the cotter pin first. You can twist from the outside if you double nut that & jam them together.

Dell (WA) · Nov 17, 2008

Todd.......no doubt yer lower 3-point link pin is leaking. Howsomevers; yer diffy stud bolts are ALSO leaking. Remove the nuts and tighten yer studs, then tighten yer studnuts to 40ft/lbs.

You will haffta drain yer 5-gals of hydro-tranny oil first. Drain the square diffy bolt FIRST. Then yer 3-in tranny drain, then yer 3-in hydro-pump drain. Then remove yer ag-bar tires, don't let them heavy buggers flop on you. Now remove yer LEFT brakedrum and axle so you can remove yer LEFT axle trumpet. Why left? 'cuz you can slide yer diffy out and reach thru and tighten yer right lower 3-point link to 150ft/lbs. Sorta a 2-fer job. Tighten trumpet studnuts to 40ft/lbs. Swipe yer paper trumpet gasket with hot water to "relax" the paper fibers and fit all the studs without tearing. Such'cha deal, eh? ........Dell

ZANE · Nov 17, 2008

If you pull the left side you can take the differential out. If you pull the right side you can't. Sometimes it's a lot easier to get to the pull pin nut with the differential out.

Zane

Dunk · Nov 17, 2008

Anonymous-0 · Nov 17, 2008

My stud bolts were leaking, too. But I seem to have a knack for finding 8Ns that have cracked center housings as well. (two for two)
<a href="http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/d4xycrq/FORD%208N%20Pictures/?action=view&current=Crack.jpg" target="_blank">

</a>

Todd 22 · Nov 26, 2008

Upon closure inspection the right pin was bent so tighten it wouldn’t be an option. I decided since I’ve come this far I’d do the job right and pull both sides and replace both pins. Besides it appears to be leaking a little bit from left trumpet housing in one spot. I’ve managed to get the right trumpet off without too much trouble. It wasn’t as heavy as I thought it would be. I was able to support it with a floor jack and few 2x4s and lift it off myself.

Leaking 3PT lift arm

Todd 22

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ZANE

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E Vaughan

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Tom N MS

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Dunk

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Tom N MS

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Dan in CO

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Dell (WA)

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ZANE

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Dunk

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Anonymous-0

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Todd 22

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