Dollar Bill
Member
Have done a lot of work recently to make the tractor start and run like it should.
Changes I've made: New 6 volt generator, new starter, new manifold, new points plate, new plugs, wires and rotor, overhauled carb and replaced venturi. I soaked it in carb cleaner and blew out all the passageways as recommended by everyone.
Cold engine compression readings:
Nr 1; 50 valve seating. 120 final reading. 150 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder
[b:7f0cf1a34a]Nr 2; 30 valve seating. 50 final reading. 130 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder[/b:7f0cf1a34a]
Nr 3; 60 valve seating. 90 final reading. 140 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder
Nr 4; 70 valve seating. 90 final reading. 100 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder.
Adding the oil brought the compression reading up to specs. I've heard it could be rings or valves. Yesterday, I ran about a quart of ATF through the carb to see if it would help. Didn't matter too much. After fogging the engine with ATF, I took a quick reading on the offending cylinder without removing the other plugs, but air cleaner was disconnected. Got max reading of 60 PSI. I would be grateful to hear more discussion and possible remedies on the sick cylinder. It runs and idles good at 500 RPM - any lower and it wants to stall. I've had the tractor about a year and the gentleman I purchased it from said the tractor was recently overhauled - Which I believe. Tractor doesn't smoke or use oil. It has good oil pressure. The plugs are clean. I had the governor off to replace the shaft seal and gasket and noticed it had a new timing gear. You can see where RTV squished out between various gasket mating surfaces.
My original problem was the tractor was hard to start which was likely due to a vacuum leak. The tractor starts reliably now but it spits back through the carburetor when you throttle it up.
Two questions:
1. What does the compression readings tell you?
2. Where should I look to fix the spitting back issue? Believe it's carb related as it wasn't doing this until I overhauled the carb.
Thanks for your help!!
Changes I've made: New 6 volt generator, new starter, new manifold, new points plate, new plugs, wires and rotor, overhauled carb and replaced venturi. I soaked it in carb cleaner and blew out all the passageways as recommended by everyone.
Cold engine compression readings:
Nr 1; 50 valve seating. 120 final reading. 150 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder
[b:7f0cf1a34a]Nr 2; 30 valve seating. 50 final reading. 130 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder[/b:7f0cf1a34a]
Nr 3; 60 valve seating. 90 final reading. 140 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder
Nr 4; 70 valve seating. 90 final reading. 100 with 1 teaspoon of ATF in cylinder.
Adding the oil brought the compression reading up to specs. I've heard it could be rings or valves. Yesterday, I ran about a quart of ATF through the carb to see if it would help. Didn't matter too much. After fogging the engine with ATF, I took a quick reading on the offending cylinder without removing the other plugs, but air cleaner was disconnected. Got max reading of 60 PSI. I would be grateful to hear more discussion and possible remedies on the sick cylinder. It runs and idles good at 500 RPM - any lower and it wants to stall. I've had the tractor about a year and the gentleman I purchased it from said the tractor was recently overhauled - Which I believe. Tractor doesn't smoke or use oil. It has good oil pressure. The plugs are clean. I had the governor off to replace the shaft seal and gasket and noticed it had a new timing gear. You can see where RTV squished out between various gasket mating surfaces.
My original problem was the tractor was hard to start which was likely due to a vacuum leak. The tractor starts reliably now but it spits back through the carburetor when you throttle it up.
Two questions:
1. What does the compression readings tell you?
2. Where should I look to fix the spitting back issue? Believe it's carb related as it wasn't doing this until I overhauled the carb.
Thanks for your help!!