3 ring hydraulic cylinder

G6 at Snook, TX

Well-known Member
I am going to try the John Smith modification on the three ring piston for the hydraulic cylinder. If I use two steel rings and the third groove is for the backup washer and o-ring, how should I set the steel rings when I insert the piston into the cylinder? For example, should they line up, or should the gaps set to opposite sides?

Finally, does anyone have a measurement on how much I will have to machine the third ring groove to imitate the NAA piston?

Thanks.
 
Ditto what old said.. ring gaps on opposite sides.

I don't have a NAA piston in hand to give you the groove info.. but I bet you someone here does.. and can throw a set of calipers on it for you.

( you using an end mill on a laythe setup ? )

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 23:06:54 10/13/08) I am going to try the John Smith modification on the three ring piston for the hydraulic cylinder. If I use two steel rings and the third groove is for the backup washer and o-ring, how should I set the steel rings when I insert the piston into the cylinder? For example, should they line up, or should the gaps set to opposite sides?

Finally, does anyone have a measurement on how much I will have to machine the third ring groove to imitate the NAA piston?

Thanks.

The post from John that I reposted here had his suggested dimensions in it. How much do you expect to pay a machine shop for this job?? I'm guessing 1/2 hour minimum charge. It's not a complicted operation - chuck the piston up on a lathe and use a grooving or parting tool to recut the groove. Probably 15 minutes actual labor start to finish including mounting the chuck if it's not already on the lathe. If your shop wants more than $9.30 x 2 flat rate it to me and I'll do it just for the heck of it.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 15:04:41 10/14/08)
(quoted from post at 23:06:54 10/13/08) I am going to try the John Smith modification on the three ring piston for the hydraulic cylinder. If I use two steel rings and the third groove is for the backup washer and o-ring, how should I set the steel rings when I insert the piston into the cylinder? For example, should they line up, or should the gaps set to opposite sides?

Finally, does anyone have a measurement on how much I will have to machine the third ring groove to imitate the NAA piston?

Thanks.

The post from John that I reposted [color=red:24aef4cc84]here[/color:24aef4cc84] had his suggested dimensions in it. How much do you expect to pay a machine shop for this job?? I'm guessing 1/2 hour minimum charge. It's not a complicted operation - chuck the piston up on a lathe and use a grooving or parting tool to recut the groove. Probably 15 minutes actual labor start to finish including mounting the chuck if it's not already on the lathe. If your shop wants more than $9.30 x 2 flat rate it to me and I'll do it just for the heck of it.

TOH

The link I think you tried to put in the "here" did not link, but I looked back through the archives and I think I found the link you referred to. Is this it? http://www.efunda.com/DesignStandards/oring/design_guidelines.cfm .

I have a date to mow for about an hour this afternoon and I should know for certain after I heat up the fluid as to whether or not it is the cylinder. If it is I may send you my old three ring piston if the local guys get too expensive.

Thanks,
NDG
 
No - that was the design page for o-rings. My original message had John"s simensions IIRC but if not go over to the "other" site and search for his original message. I"m leaving town for a week - should be back next Wednesday but I"ll still be watching thi site.

Good hunting,

TOH
 
Here is John's post from the original discussion:


Well, it's pretty standard. O-rings are "nominal" sizes which means they vary a little and the design is for them to squish down and have the correct fit when installed. The o-ring for the NAA is a 3/16" nominal but it actually measures about .201" plus or minus. The cylinder bore is 2.500 so the o-ring groove depth would be 2.125" (2-1/8 + 3/16 + 3/16 = 2-1/2). Groove width is .3125". However, that's a lot of squish on the "nominal" o-ring size of .201" or so. Most factory NAA pistons have an o-ring groove depth of 2.118 to 2.120. Hard to install the piston in the cylinder otherwise. I cut the piston groove depth about 2.120" if the piston is going in a standard good bore cylinder and 2.125" if I've honed a few thousands out of the cylinder to make the bore slightly oversize (the usual case). It's been a while since I've cut one so this is from my feeble memory, but I think it's right.


It is definately an interesting idea. I might try this as well, even though I have a brand new NAA piston waiting to be installed.


Joe
 

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