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Ford 8N clutch replacement

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Bryan Lovett

07-14-2008 19:44:07

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How difficult is it to replace a clutch on a Ford 8N tractor. Often when I depress the clutch it does not disengage the drive and often I can't shift out of gear. Major safety issue I'd like to solve before running again. Any suggestions?

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07-15-2008 10:35:51

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to TJfromGA, 07-14-2008 19:44:07  
Hey ya left out one thang,,, goat head and buy some "new" drag link dust covers,,, Cuzz the 'pickle fork izz gonna fudge yer old ones up and damage the drag link ends

No pickle fork is needed to pop the drag link ends off,,, its rather simple 2 do no damage done no special tools needed,,, leave the pickle fork for the hackers 2 use

Removing the drag link from the Pittman arm. Loosen the nut on the drag link stud a few turns,,, install a pick, hatchet, wrench are a scrap piece of metal between the stud and transmission case,,, make sure its wedged tight, not take a big arse hammer and rap the Pittman arm were my finger is pointing,,, it make take a few blows,,, the drag link will pop loose, I do not recommend the use of a pickle fork whatsoever

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07-15-2008 04:26:09

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to Bryan Lovett, 07-14-2008 19:44:07  
If the tractor pulls right and works OK when it is not acting up you may want to try blocking the clutch petal down when you park it. The clutch disc has a problem with sticking to the flywheel due to rust. I have a #6 copper wire wrapped around my foot board that I slip over the petal and hold it down when parked. Other guys put blocks or something other heavy on it to hold it down. I have been doing this for 20 years since the problem first occurred. I have not had a problem since.

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Sean (TX)

07-15-2008 02:51:16

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to Sean (TX), 07-14-2008 19:44:07  
Replace the tranny input seal while you are in there..

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Bob Harvey

07-15-2008 08:24:15

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to Sean (TX), 07-15-2008 02:51:16  
If you clutch kit doesn't have the alignment tool, you can use the trans input shaft (it should be off when you replace the trans seal).

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07-14-2008 20:00:30

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to Bryan Lovett, 07-14-2008 19:44:07  
2-3 hour job if you have the right tools. Now if you don't have the right tools it is and can be a very hard job. You have to split the tractor, be able to hold both the front and rear end level. Also need the right tool to alien the clutch when you install the new one. For some one who has never done it before its a very big job

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07-15-2008 05:03:30

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to old, 07-14-2008 20:00:30  
I've done it twice in the past year. Count on taking it apart one day and putting it back together the next. Another person to help goes a long way with lifting the hood off and aligning the engine when putting back together. Other than the tie rod ends and clutch alignment tool its all basic tools,I think you use almost three socket sizes exclusively. Buy your bearings and clutch kit ahead of time. You can buy the plastic alignment tool for a few bucks, makes life easier. Also buy yourself four long bolts and cut the heads off for aligning the engine and bell housing. I forget the size. really makes the job easy. If you take the front axle and wheels off the engine it really gets easy as the front wheels don't go every which way but loose. You could make wedges to keep it in place but the front end comes off pretty quick. You need lots of blocking, a good rolling jack, and maybe another bottle jack. Most importantly you need a good flat surface without cracks and bumps, nice flat concrete is best. Tons of info in the archives about the job. You want to find the bearing part numbers, and print out a section about which way the clutch faces. The pilot bearing is easy if you remove the flywheel and knock it out the back end. Use a socket close in size to the bearing and a hammer. Block of wood laid flat will get it back in. Its pretty much a lot of wrenching, nothing too technical, that why I could do it. Go for it.

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Bill Crowell

07-15-2008 06:34:28

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 Re: Ford 8N clutch replacement in reply to ratface, 07-15-2008 05:03:30  
Buy a couple of gallons of solvent to clean all the parts up.

Use a pilot bearing pulling tool to remove the pilot bearing. Then you don't need to remove the flywheel. Use the old pilot bearing to drive the new one in.

Most clutch kits come with a plastic clutch alignment tool.

Remove the steering box when you adjust the clutch so you can see exactly what the throwout bearing is doing and adjust it precisely. You'll need a tie-rod remover "pickle fork". While you have the steering box on the bench, it is a good time to clean it up and go through the adjustment procedure. I found that I was able to remove A LOT of lost motion from my steering box just by adjusting it. I had previously thought I'd have to replace the box, but it turned out there was no need to. Remember that the top of the box goes back on with the threaded ears toward the rear, and that the steering arms will go on the sector shafts only 4 ways, in 90-degree increments. Carefully note the locations of the steering arms before you remove them, and make sure you re-install the sector shafts so the steering arms will go back on in the same locations. If the steering arms are loose on the sector shafts, take the arms and shafts to a machine shop and have the splines cleaned up.

Removing the steering box will also let you turn the tranny input shaft by hand until its splines mate with those in the clutch disc, and to see exactly when they do. If you don't do this, it can be very difficult to get the input shaft to enter the disc without possibly damaging the disc.

I used two come-alongs attached to the rafters to remove the hood; one in the front and one in the back. This makes handling the hood really convenient. You can just lift the hood 'way up in the air and leave it there until you're ready to lower it; and when you do lower it, you can adjust the angle just right so it will slide over the instrument panel nicely.

Chase the threads on all the bolts and bolt holes before you replace them, and use anti-seize.

Take pictures as you go, and make notes of where all the different bolts go.

Threading the long bolts into the bell housing temporarily does make it easier to mate the transmission and engine, but remember that you still have to get the engine and tranny perfectly level and parallel side-to-side before they'll mate. You can swing the tranny from side to side by pushing on one rear wheel as you pull on the other.

The engine will want to tip over to the right side when you split it from the tranny. You will need to either wedge it upright, or attach a rope to something on the right side to pull and hold it upright.

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