2 questions...

Hey gang,

I was wondering if anyone has a web page or a link to a specific thread on this forum that gives good directions for converting to 12 volts, positive ground. I'm working on a '40 9N. I've converted a Farmall H to 12V before, but I did it using darn good directions, and the 6 volt system was completely removed before I got it, and I just want to make sure that I'm doing the 9N correctly. I searched the archives here, but never really found what I was looking for.

Second, I seem to be having governor/throttle problems. When I get the tractor started (which seems to be hit and miss), the throttle/governor seems to be frozen. I can't turn the lever very much at all, and the tractor doesn't respond to any movement in the lever. I can just creep around in first and second gears, but if I try to put it in third, the engine just bogs down and dies, since I don't think the governor is moving. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
-Parke1

1, I reccomend you get your ignition problems taken care of first. Nothing like being elbows deep into a 12v conversion AND having hit or miss ignition problems.

2, Once that is handled, I further reccomend you get the governor problem squared away. A 12v tractor that starts good but can only idle is .. well.. useless foa all intents and purposes.

3, 12v positive ground? Can we assume you are going to use a generator for this conversion, or have you aquired a specialty 12v positive ground altrernator.

You will have to let us know which option.. and if the specialty positve ground alternator, what model it is.

The bulk of the 12v conversions are made with negative ground setups and 10si delco alternators, preferably a 3 wire setup with diode or idiot lamp power isolation in the line from the switched ignition to the alternator #1 excite line.

In either case, you will need suitable extra primary resistance to add in to the circuit ahead of the ignition coil to protect it, unless you plan to also convert to a round type coil as well.

soundguy

Like Soundguy sez, and as nearly all 12v advocates will tell you, don't try to fix electrical/performance problems w/ a 12v conversion. Other than brighter lights, a faster spinning starter & the ability to operate 12v auxiliary equipment, a 12v conversion isn't going to make a poorly running tractor run better. You might want to fix whatever problems you are having on your N before you spend $200 to find out it had a bad cable or connection. From my experience, I've only found two reasons to convert an N to 12v: If you need to run 12v equipment (sprayers, pumps, lights, etc) or you N has poor compression (like less than 90 lbs) and you do not want to rebuild it, then a 12v conversion makes sense. Otherwise, you will likely be trading one set of problems for another. If your N is hard to start in cold weather (or any weather) find out why & fix it! These tractors have low compression, low HP engines and will start just fine on 6v. There is nothing inherently 'wrong' w/ a 12v conversion. The problem is that there are about 6 different ways to convert the tractor to 12v, all of them work, and an infinite number of ways to do it wrong. Most problems we read about w/ 12v conversions are as a result of folks getting in over their heads or buying tractors w/ "Bubba" conversions, and now the new owner is stuck with trying to figure it out. Now, having said all of these good things about 12v conversions, I must declare, for the record, all three of my N's are 6v & they all three start the first time, every time, no matter what the weather. You will find that to be the case with folks who live in a lot of places much colder than VA. And, if you do decide that a 12v conversion is the way to go, plenty of folks on this board have done them and they work well, so you have come to the right place for help!
50 Tips

Yes, I suppose you're right about trying to fix a different problem by converting it to 12 volts...

My problem is that I can take out the 6 volt battery and use a 12 volt jump box, and the tractor will start immediately (I only did this twice, and it was only to make sure the tractor started). If I hook the battery back up, it'll just crank and crank, and won't even pop using ether. If I keep trying it long enough, sometimes it'll start. Once started it idles fine, but once you go to drive it, the governor/throttle problems arrive.

I suppose I need to tack down the starting issue first, then on to the governor/throttle.

Any ideas as to what I should start looking at? Please bear in mind that I'm 25 years old, and kind of going it alone with this, so I don't have anyone around here that I can ask for help.

Thanks a ton!
-Parke1

First off, you are at a distinct advantage by asking questions!

The 12v is probably giving you sufficient power to overcome bad grounds. Start by replaceing the battery cables w/ the big fat 1/0 gauge cable going from the negative post to the starter & the braided strap from the positive post to ground. (tips 41 & 42 at the link below) Clean every connection bright & shiny. Use a wire brush or sandpaper. Clean the cut out connections as well. Loosen the two bolts holding the starter to the block (do not remove them!) and pull the starter away from the block about an inch or so; clean that connection as well. Make sure the 6v battery is fully charged. Try that & post back w/ results. Don't forget to order the I&T FO4 manual when you order the cables.
50 Tips

Bruce, you hit the nail on the head!

I started to follow your advice about cleaning all the contacts up. I had inspected the battery cables previously, and they looked to be 1/0 cables, but I checked 'em again, just to be sure. Sure enough, I had been fooled. They were actually some sort of chinsy little cables (I'd guess 4 gauge) with really really thick insulation! I yanked those puppies out and quickly made up some new cables out of welding ground cable. You won't find thicker cables than these anywhere! I hooked them up, finished cleaning all my grounds and contacts, and hit the starter button.

WHOA! This thing cranks about four times faster now, and fires right up! I kept shutting it off and restarting it just to check everything out, and she runs like a top!

Thanks again for the help guys! Now that I know the potential of this 6 volt system when it's running correctly, I'll be forgetting all thoughts of a 12 volt system!

Oh, one other thing. I really need to change out the transmission/hydraulic fluid. I'm still waiting for my manual to arrive, and I've read the 50 tips page, so I just need to know where the filler ports are for the diff, hydraulic system, and tranny are, and how much fluid I need. If you can point me towards the right direction, I'd be much obliged!

Thanks again!
-Parke1

Parke1,

Good on ya! Lots of folks blow in asking questions, and never pause to actually consider (and try) the suggestions offered. You did, and you've got a werkin' N to prove it!

The diffy, trans and hydro all use the same sump, and therefore share the same oil. Fill port is next to the base of your shifter, and there are three drain plugs underneath. For best results, after draining everything (and cleaning up the inevitable mess), pull the side cover port (where your hydro dipstick is) and reach in (ENGINE OFF!!!) and clean out as much mud from the bottom as you can reach. Best would be to pull the PTO, drop the pump and do a better cleaning... You might want to read this thread, too.

Button everything back up and fill with 90W Mineral oil!

es

Parke1, you don't want to put in all five gallons of fluid. Remove the bottom bolt of your right side inspection plate (the one with the dip stick).
Once you've got about four and a half gallons poured in, slow way down on the pouring. When you see fluid start to trickle of that bottom bolt hole, you have enough fluid. Anything more will splash over the rear axle trumpets and cause all sorts of problems like oily brake pads, or crop failures, or tractor operator sterility. You just don't want to go there.

Glad to have helped! And, saved you $200 on an unnecessary 12v conversion.

Three drains for the fluid & only one filler plug, just behind the gear shift. (tip # 3 at the link below)
50 Tips