Woo Hoo - Tight oil pump bushings!

I was not too satisfied with the fit of my new oil pump gear shaft in the freshly reamed bushing I got back from the machine shop. In all fairness - my machine shop guy did say up front he did not have the right size reamer, and I think used a drill on a milling machine. I found this old original oil pump bushing reamer set on eBay and got it in today. Now, this is not the modern piece of junk reamer you can still get - this is an original with a TYPED (yes, typed) instruction sheet and heavy duty jig to center it. It came with two rods - a short one to press the old bushing out and install the new one, and a long rod to center the jig. The jig also had a hole for the other gear stud and two screws that screwed into the stock oil pump housing holes to keep it centered. The reamer was still very sharp and looked hardly used at all. The kit also had two original Ford bushings still in the package and a bunch of old oil tubing and fittings.

From start to finish the job to press out the bushing my machine shop reamed and put a new one in - and ream, took about 30 minutes or so (I went slow and took my time). The gear shaft is now nice and snug in the housing and the gears meshed fine with no binding. It is about the best $32 I have spent in a long time!

Dan

Mine don't have that,,, can you scan and email me the instructions,,, old buddy

I don't seam to B as patient as some,,, I have this problem,,,once i lay my paws on it some'in is gonna move

I have a spare pump,,, mite have'ta give it anutter shot,,, funny thang is I have had success with the tool,,, all of a sudden its a no go

Dan

Dan

Remove the drive gear, driven gear, and shaft from the housing. Remove the old bushing from the housing using the small shaft (the smaller size fits inside the bushing, the thicker side pushes the bushing but is just a hair smaller than the stock bushing bore in the housing so it slides through). Set the jig on the housing where the pump gears sit. There are two holes in the jig - one for the reamer that goes all the way through, and another only on one side that fits around the driven gear post in the housing. Insert the long shaft from the opposite side of the housing (closest to the front of the engine when mounted) through the bushing bore AND the jig - the smaller diameter goes through the reamer opening in the jig and centers the jig perfectly with the bushing bore. With the long shaft still in place, use the two bolts to secure the jig tightly to the housing using two of the three stock mounting holes in the housing that holds the pickup tube plate on. Remove the long tube and press the new bushing in place from the outside of the pump housing using the smaller shaft being careful not to move the jig. Next, place the housing in a vice with the jig facing up. Oil the reamer and insert from the jig side until it bottoms out on the new bushing (it states in bold letters not to start turning until the reamer is bottomed out). It says using oil makes the surface that is cut smoother. The reamer is slightly beveled on the leading tip on the cutting end to center and start cutting easier (like we discussed a few days back) and fits tightly in the jig opening without binding. I used my thumb to press down on the top of the reamer while using a 7/16" wrench to turn the reamer. I took my time here and kept pulling the reamer out to clean the bushing chips and re-oil the reamer. The reamer cut very smoothly and the main shaft went in smooth but had no side to side wiggle and only spun about one revolution when spun by hand. I installed the drive gear and tested - no binding on the side of the pump housing. Installed the driven gear and the same - no wiggle between the two, but no binding. Last step - crack open a cold one with a S--- eating grin that you finally got the tolerance perfect using an old but quality tool AND you did it yourself!

Just about perfect I thought. I am willing to ship this to you if you want to take a crack at reproducing it for others.

HTH,
Dan

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Dan