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oil change on an 8N Ford 1952

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Bill Rolland

09-27-2004 11:07:48

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Hate to sound wet behind the ears - I am, but hate to sounk like I am - but time to change oil in my '52 Ford 8N - can't find any information on this site for how to do it! Know I have to remove plug on crankcase, put in about 5 quarts (6 if filter change). But I understand the oil uptake tube comes out with the plug, my plug's too tight to remove with a crescent wrench, some posts say I need a 5-
gallon bucket (for 6 quarts of used oil?), etc. etc. etc. Anyhow, could someone direct me to instructions for this simple procedure? I'd be so grateful I'll send an autographed photo of my tractor after I drove it into a 2' deep hole this weekend.

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09-27-2004 19:48:13

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
Ok guys, now you did it. Got me wondering about the screen you are referring to. I recently changed my oil (first time on newly acquired 8N). Now I can't remember if I saw a screen or not. Filled her back up with oil but haven't even started the engine yet as I have been working on other stuff on the tractor. I would hate to dump the perfectly good oil and find out that the screen was there and I just forgot about it being there. Anybody have a picture or really good description of this bad boy?

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09-28-2004 08:20:29

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bryan(OH), 09-27-2004 19:48:13  
It's basically a screen tube that's about the same diameter as the big hole where the drain plug goes. Sometime they end up sticking un in the drain hole but then you probably would remember it because they tend to keep the plug from screwing in. There are probably a lot of tractors that don't have them any more. I had my first 8N for four or five years before I even knew there was supposed to be one. I've had tractors that you couldn't even put one in because of the placement of the oil pickup tube. I wouldn't worry about it until I changed the oil next if I was you.
Later, Lee

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09-28-2004 19:09:13

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Leemo, 09-28-2004 08:20:29  

Thanks for the info. I swear I just don't remember a screen but there have been several hands exchanged on this N before I got it. I will look for sure next time (if I remember that is!)

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Bill Rolland

09-27-2004 14:33:50

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
Thanks HUGE to all of you. Grateful as always. I have a length of pipe I can use as a cheater bar, but I think I"ll spring for a 1" wrench - those crescent wrenches always seem to slip a bit.

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John IL

09-27-2004 14:38:52

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 14:33:50  
Check that plug size again. I think it is 1 1/16" like the hydraulics plugs. But, I've been wrong before...


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Russ in SoCal

09-27-2004 18:50:55

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to John IL, 09-27-2004 14:38:52  
You"re right, John. BUT, it"s a "penzon." Meaning it "penzon" how many times the plug has been ground down.

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09-27-2004 14:17:23

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
Take a look at the oil filter when you start your N after the filter change. The first time I did a filter change I was hesitant to overtighten that bolt and when I started my N I was a bit late to notice oil comeing out the cover at a pretty good rate. Didn't realize how much pressure was there. The next time I changed oil I tighten it up real well but didn't have the gasket in quite right. Oil all over again. Sometimes I'm a slow learner.
Have fun, Mike

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Rick H. Ga.

09-27-2004 11:44:44

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
Hi Bill, I had to ask for help here regarding the installation of my Jubilee oil filter assembly.

I have owned my 49 8N for 27+ years so maybe I can help you out as others here have helped me out at times.

The oil pick-up tube does not come out with the big oil plug underneith the oil pan, only a filter screen comes out with it (along with the old oil). In terms of breaking it loose, you may have to get a long pipe extention on your cresent rench for leverage. It should break loose with the right persuation. (since it is up-side down, make sure you are turning it in the right direction.)

If you want to change the filter, simply loosen the bolt in the top of the filter housing, remove the top, (there is a spring just under that bolt), and there should be a wire handle to get a hold of the filter and pull it out (like a bucket handle). It is rather tight getting it out but it will come. There is also a small plug in the bottom of the oil filter housing you can remove and drain all the oil out there. Reverse the proceedure to put the new filter back in and put the new rubber gasket in the filter top and tighten it back down. HTH (Hope this helps) Rick H. Ga.

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09-27-2004 11:42:40

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
I think you are getting your oil's mixed up.

You need a 5 gallon pail minimum to drain the hyd/tranny/diffy oil. To drain the crankcase oil.. a couple gallon pail is fine for the 6ish qts.

If a crescent wrench wount bit the drain plug.. use vice grips or a pipe wrench. If that fails.. try using a cold chissle and hamer to tap the plug out.. that is.. position the chissle on the edge of a flat and tap it inthe direction the plug needs to turn to come out.. this usually destroys the plug.. but often extracts hard to remove plugs.

Once you get it loose, if it isn't too buggered up you should be able to repair the flats on the plug with a file.. or simply replace it. The oil pickup tube doesn't come out with the plug.. only a screen/wire bail which goes around the pickup tube.

If this screen filter is torn or missing, feel around inside the oil pan for it.. and at very least .. replace it. TSC has that plug and screen for under 10 bucks..

If the screen is good.. check the gasket. A new paper or leather gasket may be needed.. I cut one out of gasket paper.. though any flat cardboard box like a shoe box or cerial box will work too.

Drain the oil. Then get an appropriate filet.. ( fram C3 or C3P.. or NAPA 1010Gold.. etc ).

Remove the long bolt in the oil cannister. Might need to tap the edge up with a small tack hammer to unseat it. Some have to remove the bolts in the oil filter canister so they can get the lines to flex about a quarter inch or so to pull the old filter. Sop up the old oil in the canister.. or use the drain plug if the canister has one ( some do ) Install the new filter. Don't have to prefill with oil, as this is the oil return line.. but if it floats your boat.. add some oil.

Main crankcase oil is added at the breather ont he side of the engine just forward of the oil cannister. Remember to get that drain plug back in first!

This is also a good time to remove the oil cup on your air filter.. dump the old oil.. hose the dirt out of the cup.. clean it with your favorite solvent ( kero / diesel / mineral spirits / paint thinner/ then refill with oil to the line and reinstall the oil cup.

If it was empty or exceptionally gunked up.. consider pulling the metalif filter media out for a soak in your favorite solvent, air dry, and then reinstall.


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09-27-2004 11:31:31

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-27-2004 11:07:48  
Not a real tough job. If you don't have a large enough crescent wrench or open end wrench to get the pan plug off I've used a large pipe wrench and cheater bar. Wish I knew what the heck he used to tighten the darn thing. The reason a 5 gallon bucket was recommended was because when that big plug comes out so does all 6 quarts of oil. whoosh, drained !! A regular pan tends to be real messy. You should have a metal strainer screen in the center of the plug that fits over the oil pickup tube. Just clean it out with gas or carb cleaner or whatever so it's nice and clean. Remove the nut on top of the oil filter canister on the left side of the engine then remove the small plug in the bottom of the canister to drain as much out of the filter as you can. Remove the oil filter. Wipe and/or rinse out the oil filter canister to get as much old sludge out as you can. Replace the oil filter cartridge and rubber canister seals and tighten down the lid and plug on the oil filter canister. Clean out the drain plug and put the screen back in then put the plug back in the tractor. Fill 'er up with fresh oil and you're good to go.
Good Luck, Lee

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Wayne Sorce

09-27-2004 19:03:39

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Leemo, 09-27-2004 11:31:31  
This has been helpful to me since I have yet to change the oil on my recently purchased 9n. The oil looks black so I need to change it soon. My question is what grade of oil is best for the 9N considering the average temperature here in the winter is probably in the mid twenties with some days below zero. I'm going to use the 9N in the winter primarily for plowing my driveway..any suggestions would be much appreciated.........Wayne

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09-28-2004 08:11:20

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Wayne Sorce, 09-27-2004 19:03:39  
I've been happy with the 10w40 Pennzoil I've been using for years. It seems to hold good pressure in hot weather and still allow for 0 degree starts in the winter.
Good Luck, Lee

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09-28-2004 05:44:53

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Wayne Sorce, 09-27-2004 19:03:39  
There should be a weight chart in the 8n owners manual.. but for the colder temps.. you'll need thinner oil.

While I'm not a fan of 10w30.. It may do. I'm not sure if 30w is the winter recomendation for a straight weight of oil or not.. havfta check the manual.


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The Yank

09-27-2004 19:34:45

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to Wayne Sorce, 09-27-2004 19:03:39  
I've used 10W30 in southern Wisconsin for years. I change spring and fall. Probably overkill.

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Bryan in WI

09-28-2004 07:12:19

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 Re: oil change on an 8N Ford 1952 in reply to The Yank, 09-27-2004 19:34:45  
Yeah, I"m in Southern WI also, and I also use 10W30 all year round. My pressure when working hard with it in the summer is 20 lbs, so I figure that is OK. In the winter the lighter weight helps me get started; no problem last year even when starting in below zero weather in the early morning to get the drive cleared off. Bryan

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