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Replacing Connecting Rod Bearings

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Tmac

05-06-2004 18:57:45

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I put a mic on the cranshaft journal for the connecting rods. According to the IT Manual the "CRANK PIN DIAMETER" is 2.094". My readings are as follows #1---- 2.087
#2---- 2.088
#3-----2.088
#4-----2.088
I do not know if the crank has ever been turned. Shouldnt my crank measure 2.084 if it had been turned or could this just be wear?

The bearings are stamped .010 US

I do not plan to turn the crank. Rod bearing running clearnce according to IT should be 1-3.5 thousands.... MY question is can you tell me what bearing should i order and am i asking for trouble by not having the crank turned.

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Tmac

05-06-2004 20:37:51

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Re: Replacing Connecting Rod Bearings in reply to Tmac, 05-06-2004 18:57:45

Dell, sounds like that is what i need. Have the thing apart here and do not have alot of fancy measurin sticks... Should i just get the plasti stick and measure tolerance using old bearings or just order new .010 and check clearance with the plasti stick?

sorry dont mean to sound dumb... Just want to do it rite.. Wear seems to be even on crank from a visual inspection.. Not sure replacing the bushings is even needed.. thanx for any advice

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Dell (WA)

05-06-2004 19:40:38

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Re: Replacing Connecting Rod Bearings in reply to Tmac, 05-06-2004 18:57:45

Tmac..... ...journal size, bearing size, clearances, taper, ...etc... can eazily be measured by "plasti-gage". A squeeze-able plastic string that squashes a calibrated clearance width. Pretty simple to use, you just haffta ask for it 'cuz they hide the little fold'em-up envelopes..... ...Dell

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NO - Cap

05-06-2004 23:35:40

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Re: Re: Replacing Connecting Rod Bearings in reply to Rob, 05-06-2004 19:29:49

Mix and match is a poor idea -- Same results as when we used to have to file the rod caps before the advent of bearing inserts. Reduces the crank to bearing contact area on the larger of the two insert halves to just the bottom of the bearing arc and only reduces the clearance at that point. You doubt? Just lay a strip of plasti-gage longways in the larger bearing shell, (instead of the usual crosswise) tighten it up, remove it, and measure. You'll find that the plasti-gage is squashed down to proper clearance only at the bottom. Actually, you won't even have to measure to determine, it will be obvious just looking at it. Two circles of differing diameters can only touch at one point. While it will briefly quieten a previously rattling rod it will last no time at all and usually will end up damaging the crank because the bearing that has the reduced contact area is the older half and the very thin layer of bearing material on that shell is already worn, so that very narrow contact area will rapidly wear through to the much harder shell material and end up scoring the crank. Long story short, never use mismatched inserts. That said, be aware that inserts come in a variety of intermediate sizes and if you are sure of your crank pin measurements you can order sizes in between Standard and 10 under in order to get just the right fit. It's your decision, but you'll be happier in the long run if you do it right. (unless, of course, you just LOVE pulling these old gals apart) :-)
--Cap--

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