Ford 8n (No Crank) starting issue

-=CRANK=-

New User
I'm working on a Ford 8n 6-volt. It was running when I parked it, I didn't use it this winter, and now its time to shred weeds.

I've charged up the battery. When I turn on the key, the amp gauge moves a bit, but when I press the start button, nothing happens.

I started with the battery, making sure it had charge. Then moved to the cables, which look solid, but I shined up the posts and cable leads to ensure a good 6-volt connection just in case.

I jumped ahead of wiring issues because its been running great.
So I jumped the starter with another battery and the engine turns over, but does not start.
I placed an inline spark detector on a spark plug, cleaned up the points, and tried again. There is no spark through the spark tester.

I pulled the key switch and tested it, and it shows 17ohms when the key is turned on, and nothing when the key is off. Which I assume is normal.

Next to test, I assume is the start button. I'm not sure how to test this.

NOTE: when i press the starter button, there is no solenoid click.

I'm familiar with some automotive 12 volt issues, but this is the first 6 volt I've encountered. So many people I've talked to have told me right away to convert it to a 12 volt system with a GM 1-wire alternator. As of right now, I'd like to keep it original 6-volt, because it seems like a fairly rare tractor, being propane powered.

Any help is appreciated.

This post was edited by -=CRANK=- on 06/23/2021 at 08:09 pm.
 
Making the 12 volt conversion mistake solves nothing.
Step one is to MAKE SURE your battery is good.
How old is it?
What is the open circuit voltage and what is the reading at the starter when you push the start button?
 
The start button grounds the small terminal on the solenoid

You could jump that terminal to ground BUT BE AWARE you would be bypassing the neutral safety switch and could get run over and killed....

I would do it personally but I would tripple check that the tractor was in N and have the key off...

I'd also make sure I had an escape route just in case the entire universe was stacked against me...

Obviously do this at your own risk I am NOT saying it is safe to do...

This post was edited by Smokeonthewater on 06/23/2021 at 08:31 pm.
 
Do you own a voltmeter? A test light? 6 volt or 12 volt doesn't matter they all work and they all break. You need the tools to troubleshoot. You went from no crank to someway jumping the starter with 12v and getting no spark. If the power you used to jump the starter didn't have a way to get to the coil it can't make spark.
Let's go to the beginning and take a voltage reading of the battery.
 
(quoted from post at 22:14:34 06/23/21) Making the 12 volt conversion mistake solves nothing.
I posted that to weed out any responses that right away said to convert it to 12 volt. Its nice to hear someone back me up on that choice.

Step one is to MAKE SURE your battery is good.
Sadly, I should have checked that first. I charged the battery until my charger indicated it was good. The battery is not good, its only showing 5 Volts. I will pick one up tomorrow.

(quoted from post at 22:29:31 06/23/21) You could jump that terminal to ground BUT BE AWARE you would be bypassing the neutral safety switch and could get run over and killed....
I have just never thought of this as being dangerous. My family has always started the tractor from the ground, on the side, checking if the tractor was in neutral before starting. Pushing the start button with our thumb. Time to change family tradition.

(quoted from post at 22:49:29 06/23/21) Do you own a voltmeter? A test light? 6 volt or 12 volt doesn't matter they all work and they all break. You need the tools to troubleshoot. You went from no crank to someway jumping the starter with 12v and getting no spark. If the power you used to jump the starter didn't have a way to get to the coil it can't make spark.
Let's go to the beginning and take a voltage reading of the battery.
I had to dig the volt meter out of boxes after recently moving.
Feeling foolish I hadn't checked the battery voltage first before posting.
Its only at 5 volts, after the charger said all was good. I'm picking up a new
battery tomorrow, and try again.

Thank you everyone for your prompt responses!

This post was edited by -=CRANK=- on 06/23/2021 at 09:19 pm.
 
You said:
I pulled the key switch and tested it, and it shows 17ohms when the key is turned on, and nothing when the key is off. Which I assume is normal.

Not normal. Switch should be ~0Ω on and open when off. 17Ω is enough to keep ignition from working.
 
(quoted from post at 01:01:22 06/24/21) You said:
I pulled the key switch and tested it, and it shows 17ohms when the key is turned on, and nothing when the key is off. Which I assume is normal.

Not normal. Switch should be ~0Ω on and open when off. 17Ω is enough to keep ignition from working.

VERY TRUE!!
I have owned our 2N since 1987 and am on the 3rd switch.
If you find that you need a new one, buy 2.
 
New battery: Its up and running!

It took me awhile, and traveling to several towns before I found a battery for the 8n. Customer service is at an all time low. There are several autoparts stores, that didn't know that older vehicles & tractors were 6 volt, but to insist that I was wrong. Wow, its been a frustrating day. Its up and running now, thankfully.

I'll keep in mind that I may need a new switch soon. Would it affect the speed of the starter if the key switch is going out? Because the starter has always seemed very slow, I just assumed it was because it was 6 volts.
 
No switch will effect the cranking of the engine. The battery, cables, solenoid, starter and possibly starter ground connection would be factors along with being 6v. You can do voltage drop tests across connections to see if there is a problem after cleaning all connections.
 
I'm having a similar issue. A couple days ago the tractor was running normally. I shut it off for a few minutes, and when I tried to start it again nothing happened. Not a sound--not even a click when I push the ignition button.

I changed the battery after reading this thread, hoping it would be that simple. Now I'm getting rapid clicks (I think from the solenoid), but no crank. Any recommendations on what I try next? Thanks.

EDIT: After doing some more googling and watching some youtube vids, I ordered a starter solenoid. It was cheap and looks like an easy thing to try, plus the rapid clicking seems to be a common symptom of a bad starter solenoid.

This post was edited by Dooshtor on 06/28/2021 at 04:37 pm.
 
Crank, glad to hear you got your tractor running with a new battery. Next time you need a new battery, just tell them you need a group 1 6 volt battery.
Also, now that you have a new battery, I would recommend you purchase a 6 volt Battery Minder or Battery Tender NOT a trickle charger. They aren't cheap, but half the price of a new battery. Use it when your tractor is shut down for the season.
Another question, when you measured the resistance of the ignition switch, was that with wires connected to it or not?
 
plus the rapid clicking seems to be a common symptom of a bad starter solenoid.

No, that is incorrect. The solenoid is making a noise because of low voltage. That is likely caused by:

1. A weak battery (charge it & check it per tip # 49. Or get it load tested.)*

2. Dirty grounds/connections (remove the cables & clean the connections)

3. Bad cables or incorrect sized cables (replace them - see tip # 41)**

4. Bad ground between the starter & the block. (pull the starter away from the block & clean the mating area - see tip # 36)

* No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. A 6 volt battery is fully charged at 6.32 volts, a 12 volt battery is fully charged at 12.65
volts. A fully charged battery cell will have a specific gravity of 1.265. At 5.95 volts, a 6v battery is dead; at 11.89 volts, a 12 v battery is dead. What is
the exact voltage of your battery?

** You can't see corrosion under the insulation.
75 Tips
 

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