Aftermarket carbs. What are they worth, do they work?

1Rustic1

Member
Run across a few of these while buying tractors. Never found one worth a flip. Bought 1 new one, its still in the bag and will probably end up in the junk pile. Chances are I can clean up a marvel that needs rebuilding and still get better results.
Paid less than 12 bucks with free shipping. In my opinion that was to much. After a couple corona's anything looks good.

Point is, rebuild or have rebuilt your original MARVEL, worth every penny. BTW they are cast iron, not aluminum

mvphoto66020.jpg
 

I'll concur with Rustic. Unless your OEM carb is worn so the shafts are floppy, or it's rusted up, it's an easy rebuild.

I had to do a manifold on my N. So I did the carb and adjusted valves the same time.

I used to work at a shop that had the dip bucket for carb parts, nothing in a N carb that stuff will hurt and it comes out clean as new. Rinse, blow out with air, and check your float after you replace the needle.

While you are at it clean out the whole air filter assy.
 
The basic design of the M/S carb is so simple that i can't understand why someone can not make one that works. What is the problem with the after market ones? I hear that they are garbage, but what exactly is wrong with them that they do not work? Jets too big or small? leaks at the bowl? Almost feel like getting one just to play with it!
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:16 12/02/20) The basic design of the M/S carb is so simple that i can't understand why someone can not make one that works. What is the problem with the after market ones? I hear that they are garbage, but what exactly is wrong with them that they do not work? Jets too big or small? leaks at the bowl? Almost feel like getting one just to play with it!

Have I got a deal for you.
My guess is all of the above, with engineering and quality control being the top 2. If a quality replacement was built chances are it would cost more than 35 bucks. This one was 12, they paid shipping.
 
I got one out of curiosity for11.86 (I think the price was a mistake) as I no longer see them at that price.Put on one of my 8Ns to see if it would even run and it ran great with some adjustments.
 
I bought on from Amazon for about forty bucks so I could use
my tractor while I rebuilt the original. I put it on the tractor, it
fired right up. A bit of adjustment, now the tractor idles better
than it ever has. I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised.

Jerry
 
I got a feeling that those who do not like them, do not know how to adjust them in the first place.
 
My 9n had a zenith carb when I bought it back in 99. Nothing wrong with it. I have read several posts about the aftermarket carbs for the Fords. Seems most have
trouble with them running too lean.

Unless the housing is broken. I really don't understand why people don't just rebuild the original. But that's what we do in this modern age. Don't rebuild
starters, generators, or alternators. Just buy a new one.


I have bought two cheap aftermarket carbs for air cooled engines. I first one was for a 12hp Kohler( $13.00). It worked good. Second one was for a weed eater.
Gas ran stright through it. They sent me a replacement carb. But I had to wait for it to come from the factory in China. Took two or three weeks.
 
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.
 
(quoted from post at 16:51:54 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.
t might help more folks if you would install it and see how it works.
 
(quoted from post at 16:07:19 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 16:51:54 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.
t might help more folks if you would install it and see how it works.

Or, you could quit posting nonsense on what otherwise started out being a decent thread. Seriously, some folks would argue with a signpost.
 
Frankly, I find fixing old sh*t more satisfying than fooling around with new sh*t.

I got a kit for my M-S carb because I like fixing/tuning stuff. It will be brand new when I finish with it. :)

That said, if the available replacements are worth a flip with a little tuning, let's hear about it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:38 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 16:07:19 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 16:51:54 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.
t might help more folks if you would install it and see how it works.

Or, you could quit posting nonsense on what otherwise started out being a decent thread. Seriously, some folks would argue with a signpost.

decent thread? that's a hoot!
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:55 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 17:23:38 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 16:07:19 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 16:51:54 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.
t might help more folks if you would install it and see how it works.

Or, you could quit posting nonsense on what otherwise started out being a decent thread. Seriously, some folks would argue with a signpost.

decent thread? that's a hoot!
I dont argue on the web

Perhaps we should chat in person. Address is listed in first post. Invitation offered.
 

Moving on.

As I mentioned earlier, bought SEVERAL tractors that had them already installed. Never could get them tweaked out to my satisfaction. Had great results w the marvels, they were designed/built to very high standards. Kits cost about the same as the imposters, I prefer to rebuild the originals.

Personally, I dont like them. Others do. We all have different objectives.
 
I have been sitting here trying to figure out your attitude, I went back and read the entire thread several times and see no place where I was arguing! I will waste no more of my time replying to any of your posts.
Have a good day!
 
Answer to your Post: Hit & Miss as far as do they work, what are they worth- what's the price of scrap metal today? All new stuff is made in Cheena nowadays. Several
manufactures make clones of cloned clones. FORD designed and engineered all their components to be rebuilt over and over. It's been my first and only choice -never
bought a 'new' component in my life for my Fords. I've rebuilt a few hundred Marvel-Schebler carbs in my day, have a big tote of them in my kitchen now. Aftermarkets
used to be OK when they were made in India. I last worked on a clone for a customer, brand unknown, and I went to install four new 12-24 screws on that mate the two
halves and they were metric threads. The ones on it were cross-recessed heads and boogered up bad. I won't work on them anymore. ZENITH makes a decent carb but unless you
have a true ZENITH, don't assume. I also only buy the TISCO Carb complete kit. Again, what are you asking? You say you will use M/S carbs but bought a cheap clone and
want to know what its worth? Also, there's no need to get nasty with folks who are trying to help.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 14:27:18 12/03/20) Answer to your Post: Hit & Miss as far as do they work, what are they worth- what's the price of scrap metal today? All new stuff is made in Cheena nowadays. Several
manufactures make clones of cloned clones. FORD designed and engineered all their components to be rebuilt over and over. It's been my first and only choice -never
bought a 'new' component in my life for my Fords. I've rebuilt a few hundred Marvel-Schebler carbs in my day, have a big tote of them in my kitchen now. Aftermarkets
used to be OK when they were made in India. I last worked on a clone for a customer, brand unknown, and I went to install four new 12-24 screws on that mate the two
halves and they were metric threads. The ones on it were cross-recessed heads and boogered up bad. I won't work on them anymore. ZENITH makes a decent carb but unless you
have a true ZENITH, don't assume. I also only buy the TISCO Carb complete kit. Again, what are you asking? You say you will use M/S carbs but bought a cheap clone and
want to know what its worth? Also, there's no need to get nasty with folks who are trying to help.


Tim Daley(MI)

Thank you for those details. Empirical evidence is what we need. Details of what is bad. That would make a great "sticky" - what other forums have in terms of general guidance. "Don't do this because...."
 
Bought a farmall cub with no carb. Bought
an Amazon carb for $40. Little tweeking
and that cub runs as good as our other 3.
Lucky all 6 or 7 fords have original
carbs. But if I needed to I would gamble
on a cheap one......
 
I needed a temporary one until I could rebuild the Zenith that came on "Sally" my new-old 1940 9N - so I bought a $40 cheapie.

I struggled with that substandard thing until I replaced the Zenith she came here with. Runs well now and the "New" one - sits in it's shipping box in the barn where it belongs. - Joe -
 
(quoted from post at 17:11:00 12/03/20)
(quoted from post at 14:27:18 12/03/20) Answer to your Post: Hit & Miss as far as do they work, what are they worth- what's the price of scrap metal today? All new stuff is made in Cheena nowadays. Several
manufactures make clones of cloned clones. FORD designed and engineered all their components to be rebuilt over and over. It's been my first and only choice -never
bought a 'new' component in my life for my Fords. I've rebuilt a few hundred Marvel-Schebler carbs in my day, have a big tote of them in my kitchen now. Aftermarkets
used to be OK when they were made in India. I last worked on a clone for a customer, brand unknown, and I went to install four new 12-24 screws on that mate the two
halves and they were metric threads. The ones on it were cross-recessed heads and boogered up bad. I won't work on them anymore. ZENITH makes a decent carb but unless you
have a true ZENITH, don't assume. I also only buy the TISCO Carb complete kit. Again, what are you asking? You say you will use M/S carbs but bought a cheap clone and
want to know what its worth? Also, there's no need to get nasty with folks who are trying to help.


Tim Daley(MI)

Thank you for those details. Empirical evidence is what we need. Details of what is bad. That would make a great "sticky" - what other forums have in terms of general guidance. "Don't do this because...."
I dont think this platform is capable of allowing" stickys" You are exactly right though. I started the thread based on my opinion and experiences, felt it was a important issue that could be addressed, Way to many people think they are buying a quality replacement part, some pay top dollar and later find out the hard way.
Some buy them and love them.

Tim Daley is one of the folks that actually " walk the talk" so when "THEY" show up in my silly thread. I know their words speak volumes, and if followed can help us make better informed decisions.

With so many snake oil salesmen out there its easy to be misled.

You get what you pay for, knowledge is power.


mvphoto66068.jpg
 
If those Chinese carbs have aluminum body's like someone mentioned ; that could be problematic. The alcohol in gas corrodes aluminum after time and forms a white goop which plugs the jets. For a tractor that's used infrequently it could be a problem.
 
I have purchase one for my Jub ,one for my 631 and one for my Lawn Tractor. They have worked well for me. I also purchased one for my HP
sprayer and one for a older Lawn tractor for "just in case". The original for the Jub kept acting up. The 631 was just for a quick fix (it
worked). The Lawn tractor was also a quick fix 2 years ago. I make sure to run my equipment every month now....Just my experience...hasn't
been to bad
 
(quoted from post at 23:31:57 12/04/20) If those Chinese carbs have aluminum body's like someone mentioned ; that could be problematic. The alcohol in gas corrodes aluminum after time and forms a white goop which plugs the jets. For a tractor that's used infrequently it could be a problem.
Yes and no.
It is water that is absorbed by the alcohol in the gas that causes the corrosion.
OEM carbs are almost always anodized which protects the aluminum from further corrosion.
Importers of china made carbs do not seem to think it cost worthy to do the anodizing procedure.
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:54 12/02/20)
(quoted from post at 15:14:25 12/02/20)
If you assumed they are junk, why did you bother to buy one?
And then not bother to take it out of the bag and scrutinize it a bit?

ORIGINALLY;
I bought it because it was less than 12 bucks DELIVERED FREE.

Today, I started a thread,
So we could have a discussion about it and get different opinions.and experience.

Then hopefully it will help some folks.

I have bought three over the years.
So far each one needed to be tweaked in some way such as a lever on a shaft removed and flipped over.
They do not like E10 left sitting in them.
So either run non ethanol or run them dry between use.
 

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