Howdy from Texas

Krosati

Member
Just bought this 9n this past week and have run across a few issues I tinkered with today.
It appears to have an 8N engine on a 9N chassis.
I spent the morning cleaning the fuel system as it has a sputter in all rpm ranges. It runs fine and cuts really good. I test drove it Friday at the guys property and cut some 4 ft tall scrub brush.
I have been on and off this board for the last few weeks just perusing some of the common stuff to look for when buying these old workhorses.
Looking forward to really getting into turning this into a real nice work tractor for the lease and homestead.
 
mvphoto24055.jpg

Here it is. A shade tree restoration of a Frankenstein.
Look it over and give me your thoughts.
 
Welcome! I agree with John.
What makes you believe it is a 9N with an 8N engine?
Totally possible and nothing wrong with that. Just wondering.
Do you have picture? 4 forward speeds or 3 forward speeds?
 
The engine has a front distributor but 8N stamped on the left rear end of the block. Everything else I see from the front axle to the rear end looks like a 9N.
 
HI, I'm inclined to think that is an early 2N, which is about the same as 9N. Does it have a Sherman overdrive? That would make it more useful and desirable with 6 speeds.
 
Picture looks to be a 9N or early 2N. Could certainly have an
early 8N engine. They were essentially the same.
No need to worry about the specifics really, the engine parts
are the same. Front axle parts and hydraulic parts may vary.
Some sheet metal changes, etc.
 
I believe the engine is a mid year 1948 production block as the one cast in 47 did not have the 8N on the bellhousing.
The trans is a 3 speed with the safety interlock starter button right over the shifter.
The throttle quad is like that of the 9N 2N variety.
 
(quoted from post at 22:10:51 09/23/18)

I believe the engine is a mid year 1948 production block as the one cast in 47 did not have the 8N on the bellhousing.

1947 (8N) Serial number 8N1 - 8N37907
1948 Serial number 8N37908 - 8N141369
 
As the late Dell use to say, "...congratulations, you are the proud owner of a mutt!" A lot of N's are around just like it. If an engine got blown, it was often replaced with whatever was available. No big deal. Forget about serial number and casting date codes, they're not important. What is important is, A) it has a front mount distributor; B) it has a 3-Speed Transmission; C) it has only DRAFT CONTROL, the hydraulic systems are different; and D) it was converted to 12 Volts, maybe. By that I mean it's obvious it has an alternator but if the switch over from 6V/POS GND to 12V/NEG GND was not done correctly, there will be issues. Many of us highly recommend you invest in the essential manuals. I suggest starting with the 9N/2N manuals as that is what the majority of your mutt is. The engine is from an 8N and basically the same config as the 9N. There were huge electrical differences though. The 9N, after s/n 12500, and all 2N's used a 1-wire/3-brush generator and the round can cutout circuit. The 8N used a 3-wire/3-brush generator for the first two years (48-50) with a Voltage Regulator. Doing a 12V switch over, the generator gets replaced by an alternator and the cutout and VR get removed from the circuit altogether. The wiring must be correct after that. See post above. 3 Things Needed -Fuel Flow; Spark; and Compression. Concentrate on the first two for now. Perform the fuel flow test -download a copy of "75 Tips For N-Owners" by Bruce(VA) and do the fuel flow test first. Download a copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS BY JMOR" available at the *N*-*T*-*C* web site under HOW-TO's/ELECTRICAL. A 12V conversion on a front mount N requires the original OEM ballast resistor as wired originally in the circuit and you can use the OEM 6V coil or change to a 12V coil. With the 6V coil an external ceramic 1-OHM resistor is required. With a 12V coil, it is not needed. You need to verify which coil and which setup you have. The I&T F-04 Manual and the '39-'53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog are valuable tools. Keep them handy and read religiously like your Bible. Finally, avoid the temptation to just start replacing parts without a true root cause troubleshooting method being done to determine if it is defective in the first place. That is a common newbie mistake although many of us have done it. Since you're new, we just want to train you the right way.

FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
i2gbSeoh.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Thanks for the resource information.
Many of these I have already read, downloaded, or already had.
However, the 12 volt conversion I need to look into because this thing sounds like it is cutting in and out like a misfire yet runs fairly strong.
When I tried checking battery voltage with the engine running, my digital multimeter was acting real strange on the display. All garbled numbers.
I was assuming leaking plug wires, but now thinking this alternator conversion may be the issue.
Thanks again, I’ll stay tuned for more N series knowledge from the group.
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:22 09/24/18)

When I tried checking battery voltage with the engine running, my digital multimeter was acting real strange on the display. All garbled numbers.
I was assuming leaking plug wires, but now thinking this alternator conversion may be the issue.

that's normal. digital meters don't like to work on these systems with the engine running. try an analog meter. i'm not sure if a pricier digital meter will work (i know my cheap one doesn't.) one of these days i'll have to remember to try my fluke with the engine running.
 
I'm confused. The block casting code makes it a '48, but the S.N. looks like it is a '52. Am I reading the S.N. wrong?
 
Well, I took it out for a workout at the hunting lease today. Mowed about 10 acres of scrub brush, Johnson grass and what not. It ran great.
However, the bump steer was atrocious.
Anybody ever put a dampener on the steering?
 

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