53' Ford Jubilee

Over the past few month I was having trouble with the engine cutting out with and without load. It would start out with the cut out then then improve but not the last time out, it just got worse. I cleaned the plugs, installed new points, condenser & rotor. Started up ran fine for a few seconds then died. The distributor had spun clockwise and was stopped by the oiler(dist hold down clamp/bolt as not tight.) Pulled dist cap and rotor was in several pieces. Not sure if I damaged the points. I had also not clamped the dist cap and or dust cap securely. I replaced the rotor, points and dist cap but I can't get the dist and rotor to align with the number 1 dist terminal. I did pull the number 1 plug and got it to the compressing stroke but the rotor was pointing down so I loosened the dist to make the alignment and the dist would not move to that position. So I tried to start it up and the exhaust would puff grey smoke and with small pops while cranking. I changed the ignition switch but that wasn't it. Getting fuel from bottom of carb screw. Any ideas/thoughts would be appreciated. Pretty sure I have the timing screwed up but don't know how to straighten that out or may be other problems. Thanks, Ron

Two ways that I can think of. The easiest is to see which distributor
cap terminal your rotor points to when #1 cylinder is on TDC and
put the number one plug wire there. Install the rest of the plug
wires in the right firing order from there. 1-2-4-3 CW on a Jubilee.

The other way is to set #1 on TDC and pull the distributor.
Re-install the distributor so that the rotor points to the "correct"
#1 terminal on the cap and install the plug wires in the right order.
Results are the same running wise.

Either should fix the non-running part, but I wouldn't expect the
timing being off to cause the cutouts you were experiencing, nor
would I expect the timing to break the rotor. Is the spring correctly
in place underneath the rotor on the shaft?

When you did the tune-up -new points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap, et al, did you check/adjust the timing? You need a timing light to do so. Your OEM Operator's Manual has a chapter on ignition timing. Your I&T F-19 Manual has a chapter as well. You don't say if it is the OEM 6V/POS GND electrical system or a 12V/NEG GND switch over job, but either way, is it wired correctly?

FORD NAA/600/800 OEM 6V/POS GND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DIAGRAM:

FORD IGNITION TIMING FOR ANGLE MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

You probably solved the cut out problem with new points. Once you get the timing squared away like Royce and Tim said, if it still cuts out then come back and maybe we can suggest something else.

There's a spring under the rotor on the shaft? Don't see one, does that sit on top of the dust cover on the shaft?

ok, I'll check my IT manual and thanks for your advice.

Thanks, and I hope I don't have to come back but I will let you know if I get it running.

"does that sit on top of the dust cover on the shaft?"

Yes, under the rotor, on the shaft above the dust cap.
It helps hold the rotor firm on the shaft so it doesn't wiggle
and possibly hit the cap. You can get one [b:a74684b3aa]here[/b:a74684b3aa] on YT.

ok, thanks

Yes, if you didn't verify the timing after the tune-up, it could be the root cause if it's way off. With all FORD angle/side mount distributors, timing must be set with a timing light on the flywheel marks. There is a cover on the housing to access the flywheel marks by. Timing isn't like the prior front mount distributor where timing was set on the unit and once installed with the offset tang was good to go.

TPD