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I am done with sticking valves (8N 1949)

P

porsskar

Member
Refering to my ATF and MYSTERY type oil efforts I got the engine running and now the valves are stuck a again after a day or two on the boat yard. I have a new complete valve set, incl all nitty gritty, only a few years old. When running it spins like a cat. When not valves are stuck and I can not get the engine to fire. Can I bye a better set of valves that would cure this problem. An alternative: I am thinking of getting rid of this nice tractor and bring my Willys CJ2a to do the the pulling job on the boat yard. ... But I like the 8N. Help me!
 
(quoted from post at 08:11:16 08/20/18) Refering to my ATF and MYSTERY type oil efforts I got the engine running and now the valves are stuck a again after a day or two on the boat yard. I have a new complete valve set, incl all nitty gritty, only a few years old. When running it spins like a cat. When not valves are stuck and I can not get the engine to fire. Can I bye a better set of valves that would cure this problem. An alternative: I am thinking of getting rid of this nice tractor and bring my Willys CJ2a to do the the pulling job on the boat yard. ... But I like the 8N. Help me!
Click to expand...

I have two 8ns one for about 15 years and the other 6 years, I have never had any problem with valves sticking. Are you SURE it is a valve problem?
 
If sticking valves are a problem possibly due to the conditions and circumstances at the location the 8N has been used and kept, why are you thinking another little 4-cylinder flathead engine from the same era is going to fare any better???
 
After you got the valves free did you put ATF or Marvel Mystery oil in the petrol?
It is important to do so.
You could also ream the guides so you have a little bit more clearance.
I have been through this same problem with my 9N, new valves, guides , springs etc,. after a few years the valves are sticking
and not so many hours on them. I use Marvel mystery oil in every tank of petrol and no more problems. I am under the impression I did not have enough valve stem to guide clearance to start with and very little carbon buildup on the stems causes them to stick.
 
I have had it in parts twice both time I had to use tools to get the valves free. Then engine fired up in a sec.
 
(quoted from post at 17:08:41 08/20/18) I have had it in parts twice both time I had to use tools to get the valves free. Then engine fired up in a sec.
Click to expand...

How many stuck valves, exhaust or intake, same valves each time or different, and which cylinders? Valves don't just stick for no reason and throwing MMO at it is not going to fix your problem. It would appear you have a fundamental mechanical problem that needs to be identified and corrected. Is there any indication the valves are not getting proper oil flow?

TOH
 
100ccs is not eniubh,You need to put a (pint) 474 cc or more in the gas.Remove both side valve covers and spray the valve stems down with PB Blaster or MMO while idling or cranking over.Watch valves and see the ones not closing all the way.
 
my old jeep had a sticky valve,
old fellow at the napa store said I had two options,

1. qt of MMO pour 1/2 in fuel tank, pour 1/2 in oil
2. have the head removed and sent to a machine shop.

I poured the MMO in and believe it or not, the sticky valve noise when away in 30 seconds
came back one for about 10 seconds a few weeks later,

that was 4 years ago and have never heard the valve stick again,
--------
for my old jeep the MMO worked, but my motor was a new long block with less than 2K miles.
I also was running synthetic oil
 
(quoted from post at 16:08:41 08/20/18) I have had it in parts twice both time I had to use tools to get the valves free. Then engine fired up in a sec.
Click to expand...

You can see the valves through the spark plug holes . I would try wd40 with the straw built in and a small screw driver to tap the valve if needed .
 
As I have a new valve set with guides and all nitty gritty from the States. What on earth could my machine shop do?
 
I use 10w-40 mineral oil in all my old engines, Willys, boat engines like Albin flat (head 12 hp), Volvo 220 hp, BMW car, my wife's Fiat car. New oil once or twice a yaer.The 8N is the only one giving me a problem with sticking.
 
I use 10w-40 in all my old engines, Willys, Boat engines Albin flat (head 12 hp), Volvo 220 hp, BMW car, my wife's Fiat car.

New oil once or twice a yaer. The 8N is the only one giving me a problem with sticking.
 
Thanks, but I have gone throhg this as well, some years I bought the new valve train set so I thought I could drive the
tractor now instead of trying to start it.
 
Had trouble with random sticking of an intake valve causing a miss. Always seemed to free up once hot until the day it seized all four at start-up. Obviously it wouldn't start with all four open so I pulled the head to find oil migrating around the O.D. of the cylinder sleeves. The oil was thick and nasty and had coked the valve guides, reducing clearance until finally, there was no clearance after the engine cooled.

Max oversize cylinder sleeves had been installed but the block was too big for them. The bright light doing the work had used a chisel to ding the block bores to help hold the sleeves. One sleeve counter was too deep so a wire was cut to length and set in the counterbore before the sleeve was installed. Turning the engine over the sleeves would rise up out of the block. Nice work, eh? Required repair sleeves (bore block then press in sleeves) bored to fit the pistons to set things right. Installed new guides and valves at the same time.
 

I just rebuilt the engine in my 8N and the valve guides were carboned up pretty bad, I took them apart cleaned everything up and replaced them and my valves are a smooth as can be
 
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