Hydraulic issue

'48 8N front mount 6v. Sometimes the lift
sticks after lifting a heavy load (700lb
round bail). I have to raise it up a bit
more and only then will lower all the way.

It currently has the sae 90 mineral oil in
it. Not sure how old it is. Several years
at least if that makes a difference.

Today I cracked open the 3 hydraulic drain
plugs but no water seeped out, only oil.
There's also a leak somewhere in the system
because the lift will lower at a very slow
rate when the engine is off. Separate issue
or contributing factor? What say the
experts? TIA
 
Welcome to the forum - Glad to have you!!

Lift failing to lower is usually due to the exhaust control valve in the pump is hanging up in the bore. Most likely due to sand or silt.

Depending on how clear the oil is, you may have to drain the oil to verify the control valves are moving in and out as you move the touch control lever up and down.

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Welcome aboard! The N-Series Ford tractor is a robust all around workhorse. They love to work, and, like the Energizer bunny, they keep going and going despite what a few might think. The fact that so many are still in the field working is proof in the pudding. That being said, PM was often neglected by some owners/farmers over their lifetime. Worn engines and systems in need of rebuild went untouched as long as the farmer could get the work done, repairs often were put off. The hydraulic system is one of the most overlooked and or neglected systems.Remove a side inspection cover and you have access to the sump. You are reaching about the max limit with 700 pounds on the lift. So, first up, you didn't really need to pull the plugs and drain oil to check for water contamination. You can perform a simple, basic test to determine if the cylinder is leaking. Attach an adequate implement such as a back blade or 2-bottom plow. Start tractor, warm up about 15-20 minutes, then raise the load to the top at full stroke. Leave it fully raised and shut down engine with PTO engaged. With a good flashlight, look up through the inspection ports to the hydraulic cylinder and watch for signs of hydraulic oil seeping out/down from the piston and seal. If so, the cylinder is worn and probably needs to be replaced. The pump may be in need of an overhaul as well. The pump can be dropped and rebuilt on your workbench. It is not a difficult task, just time consuming, but worth it in the end. I'd replace the cylinder, the piston and seal/wiper, safety relief valve, and the cam follower pin as well. As long as you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions, it can also be a training/learning experience. You'll need a buddy to help lift the top cover off, but you also need to read the procedure before just going at it if unfamiliar. There is a right way and a wrong way to do it. Know the difference BEFORE you start. The 9N/2N hydraulic system is a bit different than the 8N system too. Both cylinders are bolted to the top cover with 4 bolts visible underneath the seat. You DO NOT REMOVE those until the top cover is off and on your workbench. If you loosen/remove those first then your cylinder falls off inside the sump -not good. The 8N Operator's Manual; the I&T F-04 Manual; and the '48 or '49 MPC (39-53 MPC will work) will be your written documents to guide you. Get the Essential Manuals if you don't have them. Also, I wrote a HOW-TO's document on the 8N hydraulic repair a few years ago. It's posted on the other site so email me if you want directions on how to access it -it's free. They forbid me or anyone else from even mentioning their name here. My email is open.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/SERVICE/PARTS MANUALS:
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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
I got my tractor about three months ago. It had some issues here and there. I started off using/posting on the other forum of which you do not speak because there was no member registration. I got tired of getting replies from the same two guys. I always ended up here finding numerous relevant posts anyway so figured I might as well make an account. Seems to be a lot more traffic. Plus I've already purchased several parts from YT.
 
The other site is not a "club" per say. There are no annual dues, not a secret handshake, no magical decoder ring, and certainly no registration. You simply show up and post your questions. It really is too bad they frown on sharing info here, because the whole point especially with the newbies like yourself is that we share information and help out others instead of viewing it as a contest and fearing that it is a competitive business like they do here. Parts sold here are just provided by the sellers who sponsor the site. YT doesn't make any parts. "You must do what you feel is right of course..." -Obi Wan Kenobi


TPD
 
Maybe you and I are talking about two different tractor clubs -there are more than two you know. I did a search for your handle on the one most here refer to as "the other Ford N Tractor site" and came up with nothing.

TPD
 
To begin with the N lift was never designed to lift 700 pounds extended way out on a hay spear. That much pressure pushing on the side of the exhaust valve clamps it against the bore of the control valve.

Another factor is how strong is the return spring behind the intake valve????? If it is weak that can contribute to the exhaust valve sticking.

Dirty oil can contribute to sticking valve too.

Zane
 

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