Mounting Tires with Ballast 8N

Orion231

Member
So, my 1951 8N needs rear tire ballast. The wheels are set with the valve stems to the inside so making it impossible for the tire dealer to get to the stems. I had planned to just take the tractor to the dealer on my flatbed trailer. However, it appears that I would have to remove the fenders to get at the stems and yet it also appears that the tire/wheels have to come off to remove the fenders. I don't want to have to pay the tire dealer to do all that work. That raises the question of re-mounting the tires with ballast in them. How hard is that to do? I have an engine hoist and a gantry crane for heavy lifts but I don't see a way to attach a chain to the tire/wheel since the wheels are essentially solid centers. It was a pain to get just the tire and wheel mounted without ballast.

Ideas/thoughts? Thanks...
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:41 08/12/18) So, my 1951 8N needs rear tire ballast. The wheels are set with the valve stems to the inside so making it impossible for the tire dealer to get to the stems. I had planned to just take the tractor to the dealer on my flatbed trailer. However, it appears that I would have to remove the fenders to get at the stems and yet it also appears that the tire/wheels have to come off to remove the fenders. I don't want to have to pay the tire dealer to do all that work. That raises the question of re-mounting the tires with ballast in them. How hard is that to do? I have an engine hoist and a gantry crane for heavy lifts but I don't see a way to attach a chain to the tire/wheel since the wheels are essentially solid centers. It was a pain to get just the tire and wheel mounted without ballast.

Ideas/thoughts? Thanks...
I would take the tractor to the dealer and let them do whatever they think best, they will probably remove the wheel assy. They have the equipment to do the work safely.
 
Are you overthinking this?
I don't understand why they can't access the
valve stems if they are on the inside.
Are you thinking they must fill them with
the stems at the 12 Oclock position?
If so, why cant they attach the filler hose
to the stem at the bottom, then jack that
tire up and rotate the tire so the stem is
at the top?
They could lay on the ground and reach up
there to fill it.
Half of the tractors on the planet have the
valve stems on the inside and they manage to
fill them - either with air or fluid -
without any trouble.
Just bring the tractor in and let them do
it. They know how.
 
Like UD said, they should be able to attach the fitting with the valve at 6 o'clock and rotate the assembly to fill it. If they can't figure that out it may be an opportunity to find another dealer.

Another option is to remount your rims. Empty ones are pretty easy to maneuver around. I put new rear rims/tires on mine and had the choice of mounting the valve stems in, or out. I chose out because they're easier to get to and give the rear a slightly wider track for more stability.
 
I would just swap sides on the tires and rims and the valve stems would be on the outside,a little wider stance but more stability,as for putting the wheel back
on,use jack stands or cribbing to stabilize one side and use your floor jack to adjust the height and line up the rim to the studs and bolt it on,I've done lots
of them with out having to lift a loaded tire.Just be careful it doesn't tip over on you!
 
Any decent tire dealer can fill them with the stem on the inside.
They'll probably appreciate not having to handle them off the tractor.
 
I was a tire dealer/repair man for 22 years. I did literally hundreds of tractors with the valve stems on the
inside of the rim, that includes dozens of these n fords. You don't have to remove anything. Do not take the
tire and rim off the machine. It is a whole lot harder to work on if they are off the machine. If you have
those darn hat rims, do not be surprised if the center of the rim rusted out. I kept new rims in stock and
always took two with me when I replaced tires on 1.
 
First question I have is why do you ?need? tire ballast? What type of work are you doing? Yeah, it?s your tractor and your $$$ and you can do anything you want. I agree with what everyone says ?any tire guy who says they can?t mess with a tire that has the valve inside mounted doesn?t know beans. I have dealt with a Firestone AG Tire dealer since the early 90?s, even came out to my farm once to repair/replace a rotted out hat rim. When I go there, they want the wheels/tires dismounted from the tractor. They have all the right stuff to work with tires ?hoists, cranes, et al. Second question is what are you planning on filling the tires with? Calcium Chloride was the substance used on the N?s. The later Hundred Series offered pie weights, solid ring weights, and 2-piece weights for the 16? fronts so there are alternatives. If the tires were ever loaded before, you may have issues. I added Beet Juice, Rim Guard ?? in the mid-90?s to my 11.2 x 28 work tires and never had any issues. I just used the 8N yesterday to disc up some deer food plots. If the tubes ever had Ca Chl in them and you plan on adding something else, get new tubes and have them wash out the rims good on the inside. With loaded tires, you always place the valve stem at the 12 O?Clock position. I use my 3-PT Dearborn Tractor Jack when changing tires. Whatever you use, be SAFE. Stay clear of any potential situation that would put you in harm?s way of getting pinned by the wheel/tire, including rolling over on your foot, or pinched by the tractor, a wall, or other obstacle. A loaded tire is a bear to maneuver. Never work alone ?have a buddy near in case of emergency.

DEARBORN 3-PT TRACTOR JACK & 8N FORD:
Fb21Ubeh.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Thanks all for the feedback and ideas. I got the tractor January of 17 and had to replace the right rear tire as it was rotted and the rim was rusted through. I put on a new rim, new tube and new tire. The left rear rim and tire both look good but I may have the tube changed before I put in the ballast.

I had talked to Les Schwab and the guy said they probably couldn't get to the inside valve stems. They quoted $298 to do both tires with organic ballast. I don't know what their hose fitting looks like but maybe I am overthinking this. Although I like the way the tractor looks the way it is (narrow rear wheel set up) but this is a working tractor not a show tractor. I am thinking I just need to swap left and right to get the stems to the outside.

The reason I need the ballast is that I do a bit of pulling and have tire spin on dry ground (clay mix soil here) but mostly because I have a Dearborn front loader and notice it gets a little light in the rear end when using the bucket full. I keep a 6 foot brush hog on it as counter balance so that helps a bit but maneuvering is a challenge with the overall length of the front loader with the rear brush hog all on. I used the front loader to pull some old fence posts and on the dryer ground the rear wheels wanted to lift off the ground. By the way, I replaced the front spindle bearings and steering ball joints. When doing that work I noticed that the front tires have ballast in them. My front tire center line is pretty much in line with the rear tires right now.
 
DIY. :)

My rears were filled with CaCL2 and the rims were rotten. I got an inexpensive valve stem adapter from Tractor Supply and, using a little electric pump, pumped out the fluid. The same adapter can be used for putting new fluid in.

I need to fill mine, too, as it has a loader and needs the weight in the rear. I'm thinking about using windshield washer fluid. It's not as heavy as CaCL2, or beet juice, but doesn't cost much and is non-corrosive.
 

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