Flash a Generator early 49

No markings on nuttin is the top two wires the ones I need to flash...

Hauled it in today has not ran in 10 years garage kept. He had installed a battery so he's into it for a battery so looks like I am going to have to save a 6V system :wink: Cleaned the points it fired right up ran good but not charging...

Do both of those posts have insulators
under them?

Looks like they do it also has a hi/low adjustment on the back of the generator.

Hmmmmm..??..

Hard to tell if that's an A circuit or B circuit by looking at it.

Might be easier to take the v/r off and look at that. Look at the back of the v/r. The A circuit will have a bias resistor on the bottom of the regulator between the ground and the field tab.

The B circuit will have a bias resistor between the field and arm.

You can tell an "A" from a "B"-circuit generator by removing the belt and wires from generator, connecting a jumper from the field post to ground (chassis), then another jumper from battery to the armature post. If it spins like an electric motor, it is "A" circuit.

If you connect the armature & field posts together & both to the battery and if it spins like a motor, then it is "B" circuit.

A circuit, touch the BAT and ARM terminals on the voltage regulator; B circuit polarize it BAT to FLD, just like the NAA.

I'll bet A circuit w/ that adjustment on it.

HOBO, you know darned well the large wire and stud coming out of the back of the generator is the "GEN" or "ARM" terminal.

To "flash" it, simply connect the ungrounded battery post to that large stud momentarily with a jumper wire.

But, you already knew that!

HOBO-
You arc spark the VR or CUTOUT, not the GEN itself to polarize it. Now, as Bruce noted, it is possible that you may have the original 9N-10505 Voltage Regulator, used only on the first 9Ns up til s/n 12500 with the original small 9N-10000-A 2-Wire/2-Brush Generator. It's hard to tell by that picture alone as for one, as it is mounted upside down. Is there a 4th wire, a ground wire fastened to one of the mounting bolts? ALL Ford Tractor VRs have four wires, ARM FLD BAT and a ground wire. If it is indeed the early 9N-VR, it will look like this -see picture. The genny makes no difference if 2 brushes or 3 brushes, what matters is the internal circuit, either an "A" or a "B" circuit, and IT MATTERS HOW TO POLARIZE each style -they are not the same. The 8N Models used the AUTO-LITE VR, with 3-wire generators. Early, 48/49 had 3-Brushes, post s/n 243844 had 2-Brushes. Best to inspect the innards to be sure as there was an 8N Service Bulletin to switch a 3-Brush over to a 2-Brush. Then you will be able to determine which circuit it is, A or B. If it is indeed the early 9N-VR, arc sparking wrongly will burn things up. I think you have the correct 8N 10505-B or C VR it is just mounted upside down but it's the wiring that matters most. I have some good, slightly used 8N VR's and I can let you have one. I'd be interested in o ur early 9N-VR if it is that unit. My email is open.

EARLY 9N-10505 VOLTAGE REGULATOR, USED ONLY WITH THE EARLY 9N-10000 GENERATOR:
*NOTE terminals marked : ?ARM? ?FLD? ?BAT?

FORD 8N-10505 VOLTAGE REGULATORS:
**NOTE: Terminals Marked "BAT" "ARM" "FLD"

FORD 8N WIRING DIAGRAM:

FORD VR?s; POLARIZING the ?A? CIRCUIT AND ?B? CIRCUIT:




Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Long day mow'N hot as ell even had to tote a weed eater for a hour and NO I am not much into generators I leave it to my 6V buds they gotta be good for something other than to argue with. I just looked a little better I can see the markings on the regulator post I need to get in there and remove his wiring to bypass the safety start switch so will look at the regulator up close... I don't think money is a issue "fix it" looks like I will save another 6V system it will be 2 in a row :SHOCK: A few weeks ago saved the gen set up on a 3000 lord please help me get over gen fever...

Cleaned regulator terminals identified Arm,F, Bat connectors Flashed at Voltage regulator Bat to Arm started it up it went to charging... 7.05 volts 11 amps full throttle (bat needs to be charged) Thanks all on to other stuff... BTW the amp meter is reading backwards will get wiring rerouted...

Yep, that adjusting screw was the give-away as an A circuit.

Us 6 volt guys like to share the pain.

(quoted from post at 23:06:03 08/12/18) Yep, that adjusting screw was the give-away as an A circuit.

Us 6 volt guys like to share the pain.

Click to expand...

Nutter win for the 6V lubbers

(quoted from post at 15:04:37 08/12/18)

(quoted from post at 23:06:03 08/12/18) Yep, that adjusting screw was the give-away as an A circuit.

Us 6 volt guys like to share the pain.

Click to expand...

Nutter win for the 6V lubbers

Click to expand...

f any further trouble, might check that VR black ground wire, as it looks like it only contacts rubber in that picture.

(quoted from post at 03:47:52 08/13/18)

(quoted from post at 15:04:37 08/12/18)

(quoted from post at 23:06:03 08/12/18) Yep, that adjusting screw was the give-away as an A circuit.

Us 6 volt guys like to share the pain.

Click to expand...

Nutter win for the 6V lubbers

Click to expand...

f any further trouble, might check that VR black ground wire, as it looks like it only contacts rubber in that picture.

Click to expand...

Good point... After I charged the bat the charging voltage went up to 7.5/6 at haft throttle... Its still a little strange the way it act as far as voltage the amps stay consistent... I will move that wire...

No, polarizing has nothing to do with whether 2 brushes or 3-brushes are used in the generator. Starting at s/n 9N-12500, all FORD 9N & 2N tractor generators were 1-Wire/3-Brush "A" Circuit units using the roundcan cutout circuit. Except for the early 9N-10000-B generator, output was 11.5 AMPS. The 3rd Brush was added when it was believed more power generated was required when running lights. It was stated in the 9N/2N Owners Manual to increase the 3Rd Brush output when running lights and decreasing it when not in use so as not to overcharge the battery. The 3rd Brush, or any generator brush for that matter, have anything to do with polarization. In the later, post 2000 version of the I&T Manual, there is a detailed explanation of the generator, the 'A' and 'B' circuits, and how to conduct tests and make adjustments. In July, 1947, the release of the new 8N Model saw a revamped generator, now a 3-Wire/3-Brush, 'A' Circuit unit at first, and rated output at 11.5 AMPS. Soon, the 3rd Brush was eliminated and a 2-Brush unit was released. A Service Bulletin was then released detailing how to switch a 3rd Brush unit to a 2-Brush unit. When the 8N side mount distributor was released, at s/n 233844, the generator was also changed to a more robust 3-Wire/2-Brsuh unit, 'A' Circuit design, with rated output at 20 AMPS. The generator was also then relocated to the LH side of the engine. Just because your generator has a 3rd Brush Adjustment Screw on th back panel, don't assume it has one.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)