9N ran last week, not a sputter today

Good evening:
My 9N ran fine cutting grass a week ago, but this afternoon when I went to start it, it would not sputter or pop while spinning with the starter. I removed rear two spark plugs (the easiest ones to get at for a quick check), plugs were dry, fairly clean, and gaps were still .025 in. I removed the rubber connector from air filter to carburetor, tried operating starter and hand choked at carb inlet. Also tried a shot of starting fluid into carb while cranking a few times. It did not start nor pop at all, but it seemed like the carb vacuum was not pulling on my hand very much. I thought "maybe sticky intake valves?" I removed one of the valve tappet covers, operated starter, and the four valves I could see were all moving ok. It was supper time, and too hot in the barn to keep working anyway, so I quit for now. Does anyone have suggestions as to what I should check when I go back to work on this?? Any input appreciated.

Dennis M. In W. Tenn.
 
6v or 12v?


You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:

With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.

And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?



* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It?s not the color of the spark that counts; it?s the distance it jumps.






https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71240-Energy-Ignition-Tester/dp/B00A8FO87S/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513273147&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=ampro+spark+checker
75 Tips
 
Please listen to Bruce. He will get you going. He knows more about these tractors than almost anyone on here. Follow his instructions and you will have a running tractor.

Jerry
 
Hi, Bruce:
Thanks for the quick answer. I can do the fuel flow test, maybe will do it tomorrow. I have spark checker, also maybe tomorrow. You ask 6v or 12v, With due respect, I must ask: what difference does that make? Thanks, I will post after I make the checks, probably tomorrow or soon after.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 

Mine did the same thing after it sat while waiting for me to fix the ign key and resistor block. Did not pop when I turned it over.

I gave the carb a couple taps ,with the large cresent wrench I keep in the tool box, and saw the gas start to flow in the sediment bowl. Fired right up after that.

Yup, float was sticky. Bruce's tip on checking carb drain would also have shown that. But I know my N and it's quicker to tap the carb first.

Pulling the tappet covers is grasping at strings. Fuel and spark first. Bruce recommended an old plug with fat gap will check your spark, the drain on carb to check the fuel. I keep a clean old plug in the tool box to check the spark

If no spark I carry a jumper wire I can run from hot post on resistor block to coil post side of resistor. That tells me if key or resistor could be the problem.

P.S. if you run the carb dry when you are done for the day/week/month the float won't be stuck open next time you try to start. Do this anyway if you can't get E-free fuel and run the crap corn gas.
 
Good evening!
I connected a small battery charger last evening and left it on all night. Today I performed the checks as listed; removing carb drain plug and opening the tank valve showed good flow, about as specified although I had no jar handy and used a can. Spark checker set at about 1/4 inch did not show great performance, I tried all four plug wires in turn, each sparked but seemed sort of intermittent. I put things back to normal, tried to start engine, and voila! it started immediately. I mowed the front yard and performance was excellent. Happy camper! (My assumption is the carb float had stuck shut during the week of not running.)

By the way, regarding earlier posting comment; Yesterday I removed a tappet cover to watch the valves move BECAUSE I HAD TROUBLE WITH STICKING VALVES ABOUT A YEAR AGO. Sorry about the shouting, but I was NOT just guessing or grasping at straws, I was making sure a previous problem had not come back.

BTW, the tractor is still 6 volts, with an original type 3-brush generator. Thanks for quick responses.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
(quoted from post at 18:05:47 08/12/18) Good evening!
I connected a small battery charger last evening and left it on all night. Today I performed the checks as listed; removing carb drain plug and opening the tank valve showed good flow, about as specified although I had no jar handy and used a can. Spark checker set at about 1/4 inch did not show great performance, I tried all four plug wires in turn, each sparked but seemed sort of intermittent. I put things back to normal, tried to start engine, and voila! it started immediately. I mowed the front yard and performance was excellent. Happy camper! (My assumption is the carb float had stuck shut during the week of not running.)

By the way, regarding earlier posting comment; Yesterday I removed a tappet cover to watch the valves move BECAUSE I HAD TROUBLE WITH STICKING VALVES ABOUT A YEAR AGO. Sorry about the shouting, but I was NOT just guessing or grasping at straws, I was making sure a previous problem had not come back.

BTW, the tractor is still 6 volts, with an original type 3-brush generator. Thanks for quick responses.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Dennis, Sorry didn't know about your valve problems.

Always check for spark/gas first.

Before I start up I open the fuel petcock , should see a flow, if I don't, I proceed to tap the carb a few times. I rebuilt my carb but sometimes float sticks.

That carb is pretty simple. Worked at a MC shop and had to work on 6-cyl w/6 carbs, that all had to work together......aarrgghhh!! If one of the 6 was bad you started all over again.
 

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