Restoration of 52 8N

After two months, with the invaluable help of the resident gurus of this forum, got the engine back together and to my surprise (because of venturing in uncharted territory) it started at the first bump of the button, good oil pressure and compression. Went for a short ride and the new clutch and the Sherman worked also as they should.
However, before declaring mission accomplished, It had a significant oil leak mainly in the side timing cover. Removed it and re-apply liquid gasket… still leaks but not as bad. I am thinking about ordering the two timing covers.
Now here is the bummer. While the governor was out, I noticed the timing gear had couple teeth damaged. So in order to fully inspect it, I removed the front timing gear cover, which I had difficult time because I had installed a one piece front seal. It also appears that the front seal is also leaking somewhat. I do not not know if it takes time to be adjusted or that is the way it is going to be. Maybe I made mistake in choosing one piece seal but it made sense at the time.
Now here is a question for the pros, can I still install a two piece seal without lowering the oil pan? When cutting and removing the one piece, it seems like there is enough room to slip the one half under the crank, with the crank pulley removed.
I am not sure of the wisdom of doing this but this one-piece seal does not appear to do the job.

" I am not sure of the wisdom of doing this but this one-piece seal does not appear to do the job. "

If the crank pully has substantial wear on it, that one piece seal won't work very well. Happened to a buddy w/ his 30 Ford. (that's the same seal you are using, BTW). I'd try a new crank pully.
75 Tips

Did you make sure that timing cover was true/flat before putting it
on? I put mine on with a new gasket and a thin film of RTV Ultra
gray and so far no leaks. I also used the one piece seal. No leaks
there either, but my pulley was so bad that I replaced it also.
A speedy-sleeve may be another option.
If you've removed it several times, a new seal may be in order
regardless of which one you use.

Yes my crank pulley was also in bad shape (welded spot) and I replaced it with a new one. The seal was not removed more than couple of times. The front cover appeared to be true but it has a crack on inside of the retainer groove. Since it is on inside of the engine, it may not make any difference, but I am going to replace it anyway with an after market one. I don?t mind going the ?extra buck?, but I got to get this leak fixed? I hate leaks!
Now here is an observation. The seal fits very snug with the crank pulley, so I really don?t think it leaks from the inside. The only way it can leak is the seal retainer groves. I like the one piece and I am going to keep it. I wonder it it would be a good idea if I use RTV on the outside of the seal in the retainer before I bolt everything together.
I had used #2 sealer wich I gather may not be ideal for this application. I read the item description of RTV Ultra Gray and said not to tighten the bolts until it cured for an hour or so?. and maybe
that was my mistake too that, when I used the #2 RTV, of tighten the bolts and starting the engine right away too. We learn!

Oooops! Forgot about the forbidden script characters.

NCamu, when you say side timing covers you are talking about the valve chamber covers, right? Don't over tighten those or they will distort and leak.

No, the valve covers are fine. I am talking about the side timing covers where the governor is mounted. They are both aluminum and you dare not over tighten them without danger of stripping.

(quoted from post at 21:36:24 08/12/18) Yes my crank pulley was also in bad shape (welded spot) and I replaced it with a new one. The seal was not removed more than couple of times. The front cover appeared to be true but it has a crack on inside of the retainer groove. Since it is on inside of the engine, it may not make any difference, but I am going to replace it anyway with an after market one. I don?t mind going the ?extra buck?, but I got to get this leak fixed? I hate leaks!
Now here is an observation. The seal fits very snug with the crank pulley, so I really don?t think it leaks from the inside. The only way it can leak is the seal retainer groves. I like the one piece and I am going to keep it. I wonder it it would be a good idea if I use RTV on the outside of the seal in the retainer before I bolt everything together.
I had used #2 sealer wich I gather may not be ideal for this application. I read the item description of RTV Ultra Gray and said not to tighten the bolts until it cured for an hour or so?. and maybe
that was my mistake too that, when I used the #2 RTV, of tighten the bolts and starting the engine right away too. We learn!

Click to expand...

You need RTV on the outside circumference of the seal the seal dose not fit the cover well :wink: You have a window to install the part with RTV normally 5 min nail it no need to wait an hour..
The wait time is normally not to put the part in service for a hour...Why I wait an hour sometimes I dunno if it leaks its because I fudged up I do like for it to skim over before I put fire to it just for comfort...

Before you Put the front end back on apply a little air pressure to the crankcase and spray around the timing cover for leaks,,, Windex are kids bubble bath will work...

Plug the oil cap and apply at the dip stick tube...

Leaks do happen to the best its why the best get the big bucks they learn from there mistakes so it does not happen again...

Now here is the bummer. While the governor was out, I noticed the timing gear had couple teeth damaged.

Click to expand...

The governor bolts are different lengths . It is common to mix them up and damage the timing gear . this may also be why there is a leak .

"The wait time is normally not to put the part in service for a hour.
Before you Put the front end back on apply a little air pressure to the crankcase and spray around the timing cover for leaks,,, Windex are kids bubble bath will work... "

Excellent idea, Hobo. Kudo for the bubble bath!

(quoted from post at 02:49:34 08/13/18)

Now here is the bummer. While the governor was out, I noticed the timing gear had couple teeth damaged.

Click to expand...

The governor bolts are different lengths . It is common to mix them up and damage the timing gear . this may also be why there is a leak .

Click to expand...

Good point. I noticed the different lengths. There is one that if it is longer than one inch, would go right smack into the timing gear.

Did any of you put the front timing cover back with an existing one piece seal? I am waiting for a new one, but in the meantime, since I had difficulty in removing it, I tried to to reinstall the old one to see if I would have a problem… and I did. It was impossible for me to reinstall it unless I would cause some damage, which I am not about to take that chance with the one. The one piece seal is very rigid with no flexibility at all.

So I am thinking about removing the one piece seal and install the rope type. I think, once removed, there is enough clearance to push the half rope through the retaining channel without lowering the oil pan and adopt the suggestion from Hobo in coating the outer dimension with RTV.
I hope that will work. I definitely do not want to lower the oil pan unless I absolutely I have no choice.