I'm doing something wrong.......and it has to be simple

Just bought a '49 8N, had been sitting for 5 years. 6V sysytem. got it home, picked up a battery, went over to Dennis Carpenter got points, plugs, wires, coil, and manuals....
fired up first time I tried. ran a little rough, got it warm enough to change engine oil, and transmission oil. Ran just fine. couple of runs around the block to get all the juices flowing again from sitting.

went to use it last week, no start. plenty of spark.....no start. checked fuel, flowed freely from carb drain plug. removed, cleaned reinstalled carb with kit from Dennis. Set float to .260" per manual, as soon as I opened valve on the bowl. Filled up the intake hose with fuel. Re-adjusted float a little lower......still flowed.

bought a new carb.....put it on, fire up, ran but a bit rough. Tried to set idle and full power mixture........not much luck.

Had time today to play with it. Took new carb off, verified float setting, right where it's supposed to be. won't stay running below 1/3 power setting on throttle, lean it out with mixture screw....quits. At 1 turn on idle mixture, 1/3 throttle showing on throttle indicator, runs rough, back fires thru carb once in a while and fuel puddles just at the entrance to the carb, not enough to drip, but enough to see. Runs at full throttle, ( not sure RPM...left the meter at work ) but will bog down under a load, governor does seem like it picks up.

I think I have multiple failures........perhaps points aren't set right??{but starts right up with very little choke applied} Governor not working at lower RPM??{and at higher, but was working fine just a week or so ago} still a carb issue???

Looking for advise as to the best place to start ( besides selling the darn thing )

Thanks all for any input.
 
You didn't rebuild the carb.

You replaced parts.


There are 7 things critical to a successful carb rebuild:

1. RTFM. Read The Freakin Manual....in this case:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=6999014#6999014 (this is the best carb rebuild post out there)

2. If you don't rebuild a lot of carbs, lay out each piece you remove on a clean shop towel so that you don't lose the little screws/jets, etc.

3. Get the very caustic cleaner that comes w/ a wire basket from your local auto store & follow the directions.

4. Use a wire, welding rod tip or whatever it takes to clean every single passage. Be careful w/ the wire; you do not want to bore out the passages.
If you do not have a set of gunsmith screwdrivers to remove the jets, be very, very careful. (this is an excuse to get a set)

5. Blow out every passage w/ compressed air (this is an excuse to buy a compressor, BTW)

6. Make sure both halves mate; use a straight edge.

7. Make sure the throttle bushing are ok before you start because most kits do not come w/ them. If you need throttle bushings, replace them or the tractor will never idle due to air leaking.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:50 08/11/18) Bruce, that URL you posted is to this thread, I don't think you wanted to do that.


http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=6999014#6999014


This works better?
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:34 08/11/18)
(quoted from post at 13:51:50 08/11/18) Bruce, that URL you posted is to this thread, I don't think you wanted to do that.


http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=6999014#6999014


This works better?
Looks the same to me Bruce and I believe it is what you intended.
It has the pictures JMOR posted.
[b:1f0e90a30b]Clickable Link[/b:1f0e90a30b]
 
Bruce,
yep, followed all of that, had the jets out,blew them all out. Had it in the cleaner overnight. Thats why after attempting to get the float set numerous times without success I broke down and bought a new ( made in tiawan) carb. That took care of the constant flowing fuel, but still seems like it's getting too much.......??
 
i am more inclined to believe crap-dirt-rust from gastank has screwed your carb up-i.e. your inlet needle.only one way out-drain all,pull sediment bowl unit-pull fuel line&clean!!!everything.now pull carb-disassemble again clean=soak in good carb cleaner.reassemble,remount to manifold-new gasket with gasket sealer.dont horse horse the nuts,but make sure tight=suction seal is everything.now cut fuel line and install fuel filter.took me 3 times on an allis 39b that hadn't run in 25 years.
 
I think I have multiple failures........perhaps points aren't set right??{but starts right up with very little choke applied} Governor not working at lower RPM??{and at higher, but was working fine just a week or so ago} still a carb issue???

I gut my coils and install a round can coil , which gives me access to the + / - terminals . If I did not do that I would have made some form of modification for an auxiliary terminal to hook up a dwell meter .

I personally have no interest in setting a low idle , but a tach to set the governor and a dwell meter for setting the points and checking them annually can save a lot of frustration , especially when there is a problem that just appears out of nowhere .
 
Hi Oldiebutnewbe, welcome to the forum. You didn't say if you drained all the old gas out, I have to assume that you did. You said it ran fine after changing the oil so the points are set correctly. Then a week later it wouldn't start. I'm inclined to agree with Jon. The gas running out of the carburetor when you open the valve isn't float level, it is the needle not seating. If you drain some gas out into a jar, you should see if there is rust flakes or other gunk in there. Another possibility is valves sticking, which might clear up on it's own, or with some help with ATF, Sea foam, etc. Unless the governor is stuck and you can observe that, don't mess with it.
 

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