(quoted from post at 02:36:36 08/07/18) Did they sell you the suppression plug wires needed to keep the module from burning up? It does not like the RFI from the copper wires. And don't ever leave the key on or reverse the polarity.
Or install a voltmeter.
OK, that last one was a joke.
75 Tips
(quoted from post at 17:53:02 08/06/18) I needed a water pump, and I had been wanting an electronic ignition ('52 side mount). While I was on the phone, I broke down and got one. I know many here frown on the use of them. I hope simple minded me can figure the thing out.
(quoted from post at 12:47:06 08/07/18) "I know many here frown on the use of them."
On this board yes.
On most of the other boards on this site
that is not the case.
Typical Q&A on the Ford Board
(quoted from post at 03:24:11 08/07/18) There's nothing wrong with the original 6V/POS GRN electrical systems Ford used on all their vehicles. There is also nothing wrong with switching over to a 12V/NEG GRN system as well. 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to poor/bad/incorrect wiring regardless of which system is in use. With Electronic Ignition, you only eliminate having to mess with the points, but the system still needs to properly maintained and more importantly, wired and set up correctly to begin with. MYTH #1: Changing a non-starting/non-running vehicle over to 12 VOLTS will make my tractor start better. FACT: FALSE. If it won't start on 6-VOLTS, what makes you think it will start on 12-VOLTS? MYTH #2: I need to switch to 12 volts because I live in a cold climate. FACT: False. When properly set up and maintained, these old Fords start and run perfectly in cold climates. There are thousands of us still with 6V/POS GRN systems that can testify. Why 12V? Switching to a 12-VOLT system benefits a worn engine that needs a kick-start to get going as a rebuild is not immediately possible. 12V spins the starter faster thus quicker starts. 12 Volts are needed today to run some auxiliary equipment like sprayers and winches and 8-Track players. Unless one has an early 9N or an early 8N and are restoring it, and the tractor is going to be used as an everyday workhorse, then 12V can be done, maybe even adding EI, but isn't a necessity. Once again, these old Fords ran for 60-70 years and counting on 6 Volts. It's yer tractor, do ennythang ya want, just as long as it is right and for the right reasons. My early 9N and early 8N are still 6V/POS GRN. My 9N is in my barn being restored by myself, and my 8N I restored in 2003 but has been my work tractor since I bought it in 1992, all original, and still does all the chores. It has seen a lot work since 2003 and is getting a bit worn and ready for another rebuild. I just did a tune-up and started discing and prepping food plots for deer season over at the farm and up north.
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
(quoted from post at 15:53:28 08/07/18) No need to change the coil.
However, Pertronix likes full voltage.
So if you are using a step down resister in
your ignition circuit you will need to
bypass the resister and run a second wire
directly to the red wire on the module.
The present stepped down wire that goes to
the + of the coil stays where it's at.
Or if you do not have a resister in your
circuit and are using a coil that is
internally ballasted you can hook the red
wire directly to the + side of the coil and
the black wire to the - side and you are
good to go. You can buy a new 12 V coil that
is made for full 12 V at Napa, etc and
eliminate your resister (if you have one in
your circuit). Then you can just run the red
wire from the module to the + side of the
coil and the black wire to the - side of the
coil.
You don't need to buy the fancy Pertronix
coil.
xcept that you should tie the red module wire to switched 12v as per the Pertronix instruction sheet for the 1244A, not to the top of coil, which is after the resistor & thus less than 12v. It did run for him, but is not as Pertronix sheet instructs.(quoted from post at 15:00:59 08/08/18)
Easy as pie.. Converted mine 3 months ago. Starts practically every time in .5 seconds...
Love it.
It is very simple. Watch this vid as this guy does a superb job of walking you through it .. Be patient, the video is worth the time..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITEJt85T3rk
.
(quoted from post at 04:14:21 08/08/18) 79 years and still going strong on 6V, both my early 9N and my early 8N. I explained my stance below, so no need to reiterate, but your post exemplifies my position as well. It starts and runs fine in all weather conditions so no need to switch over to 12V, not that there's anything wrong with that, just be sure you do it for the right reasons. A major key factor with any system is to properly keep it maintained with periodic PM. "6-VOLT MANTRA: Clean, Bright, and Tight". There are some who poo-poo 6V, never owned an N, or haven't owned an N in 10 years or more, and most likely switched to 12V because they didn't understand the 6V/POS GRN system and for reasons already listed assumed 12V was the way to go. In this life there are those who get it, those who don't and those who never will.
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
hould have kept it! 1967 Ford Ranger is extremely rare!(quoted from post at 10:04:37 08/10/18) Dad changed is 67 Ford Ranger over to EI. We learned none of the
claims were true about better fuel efficiency or quicker starts.
There was no change in the old pickup performance. The EI lasted
about twenty years and then quit. Dad put points back in. Again
no difference in its performance going from EI back to points.
I know that last set of points had to be right at twenty years
old when dad sold the pickup.
(quoted from post at 20:48:31 08/09/18)
u claim there are no advantages to a system which every auto and tractor manufacturer has switched to.
(quoted from post at 02:16:27 08/11/18)(quoted from post at 20:48:31 08/09/18)
u claim there are no advantages to a system which every auto and tractor manufacturer has switched to.
HFJ, Can you name ONE auto or tractor manufacturer that uses the pertronix system? (NOT denying that possibly some exist, but certainly NOT common.)
There's simply no comparison in spark intensity, timing accuracy between all the cylinders, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, long term RELIABILITY between these "systems" and a typical OEM HEI.
They are simply an electronic switch that replaces the points (a sort of "crutch"), making a spark no "hotter" than a functioning set of breaker points does with a given coil.
(THERE, I said it, let the flaming begin!)
I have had them on several tractors over the last 15 years and they work great, I have never had a problem with any of them.(quoted from post at 17:53:02 08/06/18) I needed a water pump, and I had been wanting an electronic ignition ('52 side mount). While I was on the phone, I broke down and got one. I know many here frown on the use of them. I hope simple minded me can figure the thing out.
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