This stubborn 8n

Mowed my 10 acre pasture today. Had to pull it to get it running after it died at least 4 times. Mess with the choke to keep it from dying more times than I can count. Some observations. When it acts like it is starving for fuel, but removing the plug on the bottom of the carb shows a steady fuel stream, then it ain't starving for fuel. There isn't much in a in a motor that can work for a while then not work for a few seconds then start working again except the valves. One or more sticking. One or more not fully closing. So it really needs a complete valve job.
I have used the tractor for 17 years, and put over 400 hours on it. Paid $2300 so I think I have probably got my money's worth out of it. I am retiring to Florida in less than a year so I think I will just sell this tractor for whatever I can get for it and use my neighbors next spring to mow one more time if I am even still here.
 
The fine and fancy Ford Ignition System is kinda INFAMOUS for this kind of behavior in the N series...

And choking richens the mixture which makes it easier to fire a weak spark through...

Don't rule it out..... and an IMMEDIATE spark check may be in order.
 
Jumps a 1/4 inch gap no problem. Besides, if it was an ignition problem, it would have ignition problems all the time, not run for a while then have problems for a few seconds then run for awhile. On the other hand, a valve that sticks can do that off and on. And if it isn't closing all the way it can cause a fuel imbalance that would also require choke to compensate for lost compression and excess air coming into the system. I have been thinking. A tractor that needs work might bring $500 if it starts. A valve job would make that same tractor worth about $2000 if that fixes the problem. I hate the thought but I may be taking this tractor motor apart one more time.
 
" Besides, if it was an ignition problem, it would have ignition problems all the time, not run for a while then have problems for a few seconds then run for awhile. "

Nope. Wrong answer. You could easily have an intermittent short.

As Duey said: " The fine and fancy Ford Ignition System is kinda INFAMOUS for this kind of behavior in the N series.."


In addition to following his advice to check for spark as soon as it starts running rough, have a jumper wire ready to jump from the battery directly to the coil.

Front or side distributor?
75 Tips
 
It is a 52 8n so it has a side distributor. The choke won't fix an intermittent short would it. I printed out your 75 tips when there were only 50. And also printed the additional 25 that you added later. I appreciate and refer to those when needed.
 

" The choke won't fix an intermittent short would it."

No, it does not "fix" it.....it temporarily overcomes it.

Chek your insulator on that sidemount. Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.
75 Tips
 
I know this will draw a lot of angry comments but. I am a mechanical engineer. Give me a machine shop equipped with the equipment I need and an unlimited supply of money and I could make this 8n fly. Or do pretty much anything in between. I have been seeking help with the more obscure problems and inexpensive ways to solve them. I know how to fix this problem properly, I am looking for cheap ways to fix it. I adhere to the saying my mom ingrained in me from 5he depression, " Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without."
 
TexasCowboy ,I mentioned to you in a previous post that it could be your intake valves causing your problem.Check valve clearances endine warmed up,and also check intake manifold vacume if your manifold has a test plug in it,some newer ones don't have a port.
 
Nothing is wrong with either the ignition or the carburetor. Overcome an intermittent short with the choke? From your side of the Internet that might be logical. From my side, knowing everything that I have already done, and exactly how the tractor runs before, during, and afterwards, not the problem. All of the ignition parts in the distributor were replaced during the last tuneup, including all the parts you mentioned and everything was tested for circuit continuity and shorts. I have some pretty expensive equipment to do that. I do appreciate your suggestions.
 
" Nothing is wrong with either the ignition or the carburetor."

So what's the point of your post?

You tell us of a problem.....we offer suggestions based upon our knowledge and experience.....and THEN you say " From my side, knowing everything that I have already done, and exactly how the tractor runs before, during, and afterwards, not the problem. All of the ignition parts in the distributor were replaced during the last tuneup, including all the parts you mentioned and everything was tested for circuit continuity and shorts. I have some pretty expensive equipment to do that.

Well, of course "From (my) side of the Internet that might be logical. " It's logical because we got half the story.

And, the only thing left that could remotely cause the problem you are having is the valves which has already been mentioned as well " ,I mentioned to you in a previous post that it could be your intake valves causing your problem."

If you have all of this expensive testing equipment needed to out fuel and spark as the issue, surely you have the equipment to do a leak down or vacuum test to check the valves.
 
Reread the first paragraph. I stated that the valves are the problem. I regret even posting to this forum.
I don't need anyones help to properly fix this tractor. I just don't know how to do it cheap and wrong.
 
"Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without."

My dad, also a child of the great depression used to say similar.
Later, I was told "the frugal man spends the most."
Turns out, both can be true.
I know people who never have time or money to fix it right.
But they always have time to fix it twice. Or three times. Or more.

I still think you haven't found the root problem.
Throwing parts at it is not the answer, obviously.
But if you have a friend/neighbor that will swap carbs, etc. that
may be a valuable form of diagnosis.
 
Don't waste your time Royse. He has already told us he doesn't need our help: " I regret even posting to this forum. I don't need anyones help to properly fix this tractor."
 
"Don't waste your time Royse. He has already told us he doesn't need our help"

I saw that too, after I posted. But the truth is, mechanical things
can be frustrating at times. We've all been there.
Sometimes we type faster than we think. At least, I do.

A continued expression of that attitude would turn me away from
wanting to help too but a single, frustrated post won't.

You've helped so many people here, including me, that you must
have seen that before. Still doesn't sit well when you're trying to help.
 

I've worked in the mechanical and industrial business all my life
and the most common pain in the backside of those who actually do stuff to make it work is a friggin egotistical engineer that thinks reading about something and making the right multiple guess on tests to get a useless piece of paper saying he knows sumthin when he really don't know squat and is too ignorant and arrogant to listen to an experienced person who does !!!!!!
 
Did you try running the engine for a good half hour at idle and see if the engine does the same thing by just quitting? You said you checked fuel flow at the carb drain plug. Now perform the same fuel flow test only at the fuel line carb inlet brass elbow. Engine cold, coffee can on ground under the carb, loosen fuel line fitting at the elbow and gently move the line off to the side so it is pointing down into the can. Next, open Fuel Sediment Bulb b Valve 2-Turns for MAIN. Observe if the fuel flow is a steady stream, about as thick as a pencil, and no hesitating, interruptions, stopping and starting. Time the flow to 2 minutes the measure the amount of gas. It should be about 1 pint per 2 minutes approximately. If any hesitations are witnessed, try removing the gas cap and see if that makes any difference. There is a vent on the top of the gas tank and it will get plugged with dirt and debris. Then it will sometimes cause a vacuum lock and stop fuel flow. Note I said vacuum lock, not a vapor lock, they are two different animals and a vapor lock only occurs on systems that use a fuel pump, which the N-Series do not have. The vent is a rounded dome central on the tank itself with a very small hole that faces the LH side of the engine. You cannot get to it without removing the tank itself. It takes a minute or two to clear the vent but it takes several hours to remove the tank from the tractor. This a huge reason why so many vents are plugged and were never maintained properly. By opening the gas cap, sometimes that is enough to release the vacuum and let the fuel flow. If any fuel hesitation is still observed, the blockage could be in the Sediment Bulb Assembly itself. There are three screens in the N fuel system. Two are in the Sediment Bulb and the third is in the brass elbow on the carb. It is SOP to clean the sediment bulb and fuel system screens every 60 hours of operation. On the Bulb, one screen is soldered onto the top of the unit at the fuel inlet port. The fine mesh screen is meant to keep any dirt, lose rust flakes, and debris in the tank from getting into the system. Often this will get plugged regardless and may get activated when the tractor is in motion and things are bouncing and getting stirred up. The second screen is a brass, fine mesh round flat piece with a square offset hole that slips over the bulb assembly inlet on the body. It uses a cork gasket between the body and the glass bowl. It is to further stop junk from getting thru the into the carb. The tank must be emptied before you can pull the Bulb Assembly off to inspect the upper screen, but not needed if only emptying the glass bowl and cleaning and/or replacing the brass screen and cork gasket. Once the fuel flow issue has been thoroughly diagnosed and corrected if required, move on to the next issue, which is probably bad wiring. Critical factor not mentioned, is your tractor 6V or 12V. The comment, "...had to pull it to get it going at least 4 times..." has me wondering why couldn't you just jump start it? If fuel flow test passes, then it is either in the electrical ( no spark/losing spark) or compression. I'd leave the latter as a last check, and a sticking valve isn't going to cause your just quitting issue. Engineering degree or not, if you don't know these vintage FORD systems, 6V/POS GRN originally, or even a 12V switch over job, you won't get it. If the wiring method isn't correct, problems will arise. Any intermittent short will also cause everything to just die. I once had a similar problem. I'd be mowing for an hour then it'd just quit. My root cause problem solving method determined a short in one of the headlight wires. The wire had worn insulation and would make occasional ground contact and thus short everything out -remember 6V/POS GRN setup so only one wire used to the power source. Stationary, the engine wouldn't quit. Put it to work in the field and the up and down motion would cause the wire to make ground and short out the electrical system. It makes no difference if 6V?/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. When polarity is interrupted, once ground contact is made, power will be shorted out. You posted and asked for help. We are all in this together and just trying to help.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM, SEDIMENT BULB, GAS TANK & VENT:

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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
It is a little more than a piece of paper. It represents an
extensive education aquired by many hours of hard work.
You wouldn't have made that statement if you were an engineer.
 
Just sitting still, the tractor will run okay for 10 or 15 minutes, then start stumbling. At that point I can work the choke, or even place my hand over the air horn, and it will smooth out and start running again. For about 19 or 15 minutes, then it will do the same thing again. Rarely does it just suddenly die.
I pull start it because after the tractor is hot, the starter won't stay engaged long enough to start. If I pull it I can make the motor turn over the necessary number of times to keep running. When the back tires make 1 full revolution it will be running.
I am going to dismantle the tractor one more time, while I have the hood off, I will check the vent in the tank and install the new wiring harness I bought a few weeks ago. While I have the manifold off, I will pressure test it to check for leaks.
While I have the head off I will do a complete valve job.
While I have the tank off I will remove and inspect the fuel tank valve and clean the screens and sediment bowl.
 
I do not see running fine for 10, 15, 19 minutes on and off as being a valve or manifold problem. These are not intermittent/time sensitive type problems. There all the time or not at all. Electrical & fuel are different critters & can be time & motion sensitive. My 2¢.
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:33 08/05/18) Just sitting still, the tractor will run okay for 10 or 15 minutes, then start stumbling. At that point I can work the choke, or even place my hand over the air horn, and it will smooth out and start running again. For about 19 or 15 minutes, then it will do the same thing again. Rarely does it just suddenly die.
I pull start it because after the tractor is hot, the starter won't stay engaged long enough to start. If I pull it I can make the motor turn over the necessary number of times to keep running. When the back tires make 1 full revolution it will be running.
I am going to dismantle the tractor one more time, while I have the hood off, I will check the vent in the tank and install the new wiring harness I bought a few weeks ago. While I have the manifold off, I will pressure test it to check for leaks.
While I have the head off I will do a complete valve job.
While I have the tank off I will remove and inspect the fuel tank valve and clean the screens and sediment bowl.

Instead of pull staring it every time why have you not just replace the bendix and be done with it? as far a the vent in the tank, have you tried running it with the gas cap off? Mine fits so loose that it is vented all the time.
If a valve was sticking I do not see that choking it would smooth it out. beg barrow or steal a different carb to try.
 
Had trouble once with an 860 acting similar. The problem was the needle valve sticking to the seat. New seat and needle solved the problem.
 
Timed the fuel line at the carb. Filled a pint jar in 60 seconds. Fuel flow was strong and steady with gas cap on.
Next thing I am going to do is hook up a timing light. I don't expect it to be out of time but it is part of the ignition diagnosis procedure.
Can't tear into the tractor just yet since my disc harrow is up for sale and I will need the tractor to load it on a trailer.
 
(quoted from post at 05:54:22 08/05/18) It is a little more than a piece of paper. It represents an
extensive education aquired by many hours of hard work.
You wouldn't have made that statement if you were an engineer.

Why would I want to be a dumb arse with a degree ??
Ive been fixing bone headed designs by degreed dumb arsses all my life just cuz you kin draw it, and do some math to dress it up
( like putting lipstick on a sow) some one with common sense and HANDS ON KNOW HOW is the one who actually gets it done
 
Timed the fuel line at the carb. Filled a pint jar in 60 seconds. Fuel flow was strong and steady with gas cap on.

Fuel flow out of the bottom drain plug is where it counts . That plug is a 1/8" npt thread and drain cocks like the common 1/4" radiator drain cocks are available in 1/8" also . Even if fuel flow is not your problem it is good to be able to hand twist the drain and let out those drops of water that settle in the bottom of the carb .

I have seen sticky needles out to the box and floats that barely rub the side of the bowl that intermittently cause problems . It doesn't take much to slip by even on a new rebuild and clog a fuel filter or passageway .
 
I agree that there are some engineers that have no common sense.
However, it isn't fair to lump all engineers into the same
category. I started helping my dad rebuild engines when I was
14. I rebuilt my own 1959 English Ford Escort when I was 16.
Completely unassisted. Since then I have rebuilt 3 or 4 more
Ford engines. Both 4 and 6 cylinder.
So I do have "hands on experience". It doesn't take an
engineering degree to make a Ford tractor run perfect. I does
take money, and the understanding that there is only one right
way, and lots of ways that will end up being an exercise in
doing the same repair over and over. The question then becomes
a matter of profitability when I am selling the tractor anyway
so that I can retire to Florida.
I can dismantle the tractor enough to do a valve job, if it
turns out that it is necessary, for nothing more than my time
and the cost of gaskets. While I have the hood off I can put
the wiring harness that I bought a month ago on. Also remove
and clean the filters on the fuel valve, and clean the junk out
of the gas tank, again. I can then pressure test the manifold
and determine if there is a leak anywhere in the manifold.
If I intended to keep the tractor, I would go to much greater
extremes. Strip every moving part out of the block and
completely rebuild it.
 
If it is the carb, it is most likely the float rubbing the side
of the bowl. The float needle has a wire connector to the float
that is supposed keep it from sticking as the float drops. The
extra vacuum created in the carb with the choke could dislodge
the float if it is sticking. Doesn't explain why the choke
always must be out a little. 1/4 - 1/2 onch. That is a valve or
manifold problem.
 
"The float needle has a wire connector to the float that is supposed keep it from sticking"

Remove that wire, adjust the float drop correctly and see how it works.
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:44 08/05/18) If it is the carb, it is most likely the float rubbing the side
of the bowl. The float needle has a wire connector to the float
that is supposed keep it from sticking as the float drops. The
extra vacuum created in the carb with the choke could dislodge
the float if it is sticking. Doesn't explain why the choke
always must be out a little. 1/4 - 1/2 onch. That is a valve or
manifold problem.
" The extra vacuum created in the carb with the choke could dislodge the float if it is sticking." Carb bowl vent is upstream of choke (atmospheric side).
 

I can and will lump engineers in the same category if I choose to
and there aint a dang thing you can do about it !!!
On another note a 14 year old rebuilding an engine is no great feat...............Nuff said here from me !!
 
(quoted from post at 18:42:06 08/05/18)
I can and will lump engineers in the same category if I choose to
and there aint a dang thing you can do about it !!!
On another note a 14 year old rebuilding an engine is no great feat...............Nuff said here from me !!
..and all will join me in a 'thank goodness' for that last sentence! After all, you have been ever so helpful. :roll:
 

Mr. engineer... Devise ways to solve the problem even if you have to revert to redneck engineer'N....

If I had installed a clear tube at the drain on the carb on the last N I worked on I could have used my brain cells for other useful things...

BTW I do not buy into applying choke as a diagnostic tool for weak ignition all it does is complicate the issue at hand... I would eliminate a system as a suspect with no doubt and move on...

It would be interesting to know how it runs the moment once you do get it fired off... Lets say the first 10 seconds...

redneck engineer'N no degree needed :)
 
A good friend of mine is a
electrical/electronics guru. He's brilliant
not only with the flow of electrons but
mechanics as well. He's one of the last
people in the US that knows about radio
tubes and they fly him around the country to
repair giant radio tubes for the heat
treating industry.
He just has a HS diploma.
One time after I had complimented him on
being so smart about engineering and
mechanics he just looked at me and said,
"Thanks. I had to learn all this stuff the
old fashioned way - on my own and by trial
and error.
Imagine what I could have done in life if I
could have afforded to go to engineering
school."
 
I still think you haven't found the root problem.
Throwing parts at it is not the answer, obviously.
But if you have a friend/neighbor that will swap carbs, etc. that
may be a valuable form of diagnosis.[/quote]

Took original rebuilt carb backboff. My crack repair started leaking again. Put parts back in aftermarket carb. Found original receipt on this carb. It isn't a TSC. After all. Bought from a tractor company that specializes in antique tractors. Carb was made in Tiawan.

Transfered all the new parts back into that carb making sure that the float was properly adjusted and not touching the side of the bowl.
Put it back on tractor, got the tractor started and got exactly the same results.

Checked all the parts in the distributor. Nothing loose, improperly adjusted, or shorting out. Still easily jumps a 1/4 inch spark from any plug and the coil wire.

Next step is to replace the wire from the distributor to the coil, and put on the new harness I bought a month ago.

Taking the gas cap off did not improve the situation.
So we will see.
 
Adding this bit of information. I sold my disc harrow and the guy that picked it up yesterday got to experience first hand the problems I am having with this 8n, just so happens that he and a friend rebuild tractors. He said he has rebuilt about 100 8ns over the years.
His conclusion. Not the carb. Ignition is the problem according to him. So, now I need to put on the new wiring harness that I bought a month ago, and replace the wire from the coil to the distributor. Also, since I already have the parts, do a tuneup.
His biggest recommendation was to convert it to 12 volt. He said that solves most starting problems with the 8n. This tractor starts pretty easy, even in reverse, if I pull it.
Since the generator will not keep the battery charged, (65 year old generator) and I need a new battery anyway, I think I will follow his advice and do the conversion. Ammeter does not show a charge going across it.
And the money I spent on 1 guage battery cables had no effect on anything.
 
When just started stutters and stalls and doesn't want to run
evenly. A few minutes and it will run better, if the choke is
pulled out a little. Otherwise it just dies, but will stutter
and die in a few minutes anyway.
There is a reason this tractor does not run right. All it takes
is air, gas, and spark. But a thousand little things can screw
any of those components up.
It is never a good idea to just throw new parts at a problem but
I ran out of ideas a long time ago.
Ignition. All diagnostics can be covered by replacing suspect
parts when those parts do not respond to normal tests. Like an
intermittent short somewhere in the wiring. I can spend days
checking and tracing wires, or replace a 65 year old wiring
harness with a new one I already have sitting here. The
original harness has already been hacked into so it is suspect
anyway.
Fuel flow and a plugged vent have been checked. Tractor did it's
sputter and die problem today with the gas cap off. So plugged
vent isn't the problem. Runs a pint of fuel in 60 seconds so
fuel isn't the problem.
Air. Not much can go wrong there except in the engine where
valves and piston rings come into play with compression.
Compression 90 -92 dry and 120-122 wet. That indicates either a
valve or ring problem. If I have to, I will tear apart this
engine again to check that out.
 
About 2 feet of wire & 2 clips to connect battery directly to coil will eliminate harness problem is about a minute.
 
Bought the harness for a different reason
so why bother with a jumper when I can
eliminate the problem the right way? The
original harness could have shorts in a lot
of different places since it has been
hacked into more than once.
Fix it right or fix it twice. Correct?
 
(quoted from post at 20:12:56 08/07/18) Bought the harness for a different reason
so why bother with a jumper when I can
eliminate the problem the right way? The
original harness could have shorts in a lot
of different places since it has been
hacked into more than once.
Fix it right or fix it twice. Correct?
learly, I was NOT speaking of a fix. A 1 minute test. Can you install a harness in one minute. Sorry to bother you, I forgot that you need no help.
 
I'll do the test. If it proves the harness
is bad then I will post it here with an
apology. If it doesn't prove anything,
then you will hear about that to.
Either way, I am putting on the new
harness, but I will do the test first.
I am not an idiot. I was invited to join
Mensa when I was 35 and scored in the top
two percent on the ACT college entrance
exam. If you don't know what Mensa is,
Google it.
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:56 08/08/18) Bought the harness for a different reason
so why bother with a jumper when I can
eliminate the problem the right way? The
original harness could have shorts in a lot
of different places since it has been
hacked into more than once.
Fix it right or fix it twice. Correct?

That's a maybe these things will humble you I don't care how smart you think you are... Looks like you have a pattered frailer it should be no problem to find/figure out.

You are already smarter than a mule and yer head ain't haft as big why did you post to start off with....
 
(quoted from post at 18:36:23 08/07/18) I'll do the test. If it proves the harness
is bad then I will post it here with an
apology. If it doesn't prove anything,
then you will hear about that to.
Either way, I am putting on the new
harness, but I will do the test first.
I am not an idiot. I was invited to join
Mensa when I was 35 and scored in the top
two percent on the ACT college entrance
exam. If you don't know what Mensa is,
Google it.
My wife qualified for Mensa but I would never let her work on my tractors!
 
" I regret even posting to this forum. I don't need anyones help to properly fix this tractor. "

Hmmmmmm.???..you said that three days ago.


And you're still here.


And your tractor still isn't running.


But it is amusing to watch your little temper snits.
 
I have seen a lot of posts by people just talking about what they are doing with their tractor, and that was my intention. I just read ever single post I made and not once have I said I needed help. I have tried to answer everyone who has posted suggestions and keep it civil in spite of some of the things being said about me, and to me.
I thought I was in the company of like minded people with a common interest. Apparently there are a few people here who only post to try to prove they know more than anyone else about these little tractors.
Unfortunately I got insulted into sharing a little bit more about myself personally than I should have. That information should have been kept private and I am sorry about my mis-step on that.
I will post occasionally on my progress but these things take time and my time is split between a number of responsibilities, the least of which is making this tractor run the way it should.
 
And I still don't need your help. It will run when I care enough about it to make it run. Right now it isn't important enough for me to spend my time on.
 
Interesting. " just so happens that he and a friend rebuild tractors. He said he has rebuilt about 100 8ns over the years.
His conclusion. Not the carb. Ignition is the problem according to him." "Nothing is wrong with either the ignition or the carburetor. " So did you tell him he was full of it? and that the 'expert' that hasn't been able to fix it in what 17 years? knows better, but just hasn't had the time or inclination to fix it yet? But still posts, apparently for entertainment, but surely not asking for help? Give us all a break and sell the POS and retire to Florida....please!:roll:
Entertainment!?
 
Oh yeah, I forgot, since you are in Texas, you surely are familiar with all the "more southern neighbors" that do most of the lawn work, so why not ask them to make your tractor run.......most of them are really darn good at making old sheet run & that is not an exaggeration. Necessity.
 
I will let you know how successful your advice is after I try
hot wiring the tractor later this morning.
Every time this tractor has quit running, I have done minor
repairs to get it running again, and I can do that now. The
difference is making it run well enough to mow, and making it
run well enough so that I can sell it with a clear conscience.
Making it run right is another matter entirely. That would
require a significant investment that isn't profitable on an old
tractor.
 

I'm amazed that if he thinks it I the valves that he hasn't done the quick check/fix for them involving a few chemicals and a couple wrench turns. There are a few other tricks he could do as well, but I wont post them because he's an engineer. Wait.. I'm. An engineer too..schucks... And my tractors run. ;)

Btdt with stuck valves on fords...
 
I will get to it. And dumping chemicals into an engine doesn't
fix anything. It just delays proper repairs till a later date.
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:42 08/08/18) I will get to it. And dumping chemicals into an engine doesn't
fix anything. It just delays proper repairs till a later date.

That's great.. I didn't say to dump chemicals into the engine. try again. ;)

You have 2 guesses left.
 


"I am not an idiot. I was invited to join
Mensa when I was 35 and scored in the top
two percent on the ACT college entrance
exam. If you don't know what Mensa is,
Google it."

Texas Cowboy, If you are not an idiot why are you putting so much time and effort into trying to look like one. All this debate looks very suspicious to me. My opinion is that you are a twelve year old troll who has never actually even seen a real tractor but you have been reading on here for a week or two, and then decided to see how much fun you could have putting one over on some old pharts. By the way, you don't need to hit return on each line. This site will make your text fit in the box.
 
(quoted from post at 05:59:27 08/09/18) Look into the archives. I have been posting here for a very long
time.

Four years is not a very long time here. It is not even a long time. So OK I will give you 14 years old.
 
I don't know why you are being so confrontational. If you don't
like my posts, don't read them. I will do what I intended do do
all along. Replace all the redneck duct tape and baling twine
type repairs that were done to this tractor over its 66 year
lifespan with proper repairs and parts. I do not need nor want
help and advice from anyone on this forum. I am done with this
forum and will not respond to any more posts, nor will I post
again.
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:59 08/09/18) I don't know why you are being so confrontational. If you don't
like my posts, don't read them. I will do what I intended do do
all along. Replace all the redneck duct tape and baling twine
type repairs that were done to this tractor over its 66 year
lifespan with proper repairs and parts. I do not need nor want
help and advice from anyone on this forum. I am done with this
forum and will not respond to any more posts, nor will I post
again.
K, just don't forget to drop in on Soundguy when in Florida. :twisted:
 
(quoted from post at 15:32:59 08/09/18) I don't know why you are being so confrontational. If you don't
like my posts, don't read them. I will do what I intended do do
all along. Replace all the redneck duct tape and baling twine
type repairs that were done to this tractor over its 66 year
lifespan with proper repairs and parts. I do not need nor want
help and advice from anyone on this forum. I am done with this
forum and will not respond to any more posts, nor will I post
again.

Ok Mr Mensa, we've heard that before.

But if this really is goodby, let me say thank you for the cheap entertainment your unending hubris has provided us.
 

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