(quoted from post at 15:38:10 08/02/18) What grade of oil do most run in their 8n's? Anyone use synthetic? Any info on the spin on oil filter adapters?

Grade SAE 10W30 conventional or synthetic. The economics of using synthetics in an N-series tractor are not good but if you are not worried about a $35 oil change go for it. Any spin on filter adapter you get has to incorporate a bypass type filter head.

TOH
 
If you decide to use a spin on filter, make 100% what you get will work on the N tractor. This isn't a car or truck. The adapter should have a 1/16" (.062") diameter orifice built in to prevent the filter from robbing more than it's fair share of oil from the rest of the system and maintaining oil pressure.

What I do is remove the canister from the tractor on the very first oil change & give it a good cleaning. You'd be surprised at the tar in the bottom of those things.

And, if the canister does not have a drain plug (and 8N's made after s/n 269,530 do not) I buy a new canister .

I've never had a problem w/ the wet filter; they are readily available & inexpensive. (see tip # 64) It's the same design used on some Porsche & Mercedes engines.


Re oil type, see tip # 6. Re filters, see tip # 64.


I have one diesel tractor that requires Shell Rotella. Therefore, everything on the place (4 8N's, a 740, a 29 Ford & a 50 MG ) all get the same oil. As TOH, ant 10w30 will work fine.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 16:29:37 08/02/18)
I've never had a problem w/ the wet filter; they are readily available & inexpensive. (see tip # 64) It's the same design used on some Porsche & Mercedes engines.

Very popular with European OEM's. The filters on my BMW's are on the top front of the engine next to the water outlet. Screw top plastic cap with o-ring seal on a solid aluminum housing makes it a breeze to R&R a filter. Just unscrew the cap, snap the filter element out of the cap, snap a new one in, renew o-ring, and replace the cap. I am sure you could re-use the o-rings but the filters come with new ones along with a new copper sealing washer for the drain plug and I always replace them. Beats the heck out of the spin on filter on my Dodge truck. It is up under the engine and a dripping mess to R&R :twisted:

TOH
 
Thanks guys. Think I'll pass on the spin on adapter. Mine was in the last 3000 or so 8n's made, so no drain plug. One of the oil lines connects to the bottom of the canister. Could I drain the canister by
removing it?
 
Re oil type, see tip # 6. Re filters, see tip # 64.

I have one diesel tractor that requires Shell Rotella. Therefore, everything on the place (4 8N's, a 740, a 29 Ford & a 50 MG ) all get the same oil. As TOH, ant 10w30 will work fine.

Tip #64 is spot on.

Oil discussions are like religion discussions.:D Shell Rotella synthetic is good oil. I use it in my bikes. Mobil 1 synthetic is also good oil - I use it in everything else.
 
You can plug in 'oil type' in the archive keyword search box and get a whole history of posts/comments here from over the years on oil types. The original FORD TRACTOR engine specifications called for different grades of oil for different climate changes -extremely cold, cold, from 32?F to 90?F, and anything above 90?F. Are you prepared to do an oil change every time the weather changes? Not me. Ditto with your hydraulic oil. One grade is fine. Why do you need a thinner oil in winter when you warm up the engine before using it anyway? I always do. Engine gets nice and hot before I attempt to work it. One thing to always do is run thru a checklist BEFORE firing up the tractor, including checking oil levels and conditions.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
As far as the spin on oil filters go, as the late Dell/self appointed sparkie-meister use to say, "...it's your tractor, do ennythang you want...". That being said, why re-invent the wheel? How long does it take do an oil change on an N? A half hour on average excluding the draining procedure. Best to get old oil nice and hot before draining, then a good half hour will usually get most all of it drained, including filter housing. If'N it were me, I'd rather spend my $$$ on something practical like a spare set of points or coil. Just my opinion but then you asked...

Tim Daley(MI)
 

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