1939 9n 12v conversion (cutout relay)

zman747

New User
I'm converting to 12V and need to know if the cutout that is part of the old system is still required. i've seen lot's of 12v conversion diagrams
and some show the cutout and some don't.
Can anyone tell me if i still need it?
Thanks in advance.
 
There are but a handful or so of CORRECT ways to do a 12-VOLT Conversion and a hundred ways to do one INCORRECTLY. The fact is that 99.98% of all non-starting/non-running issues are due to incorrect wiring setups, regardless if 6V or 12V. Your statement, ??I've seen lot's of 12V conversion diagrams and some show the cutout and some don't. ?? is further proof. I?d like to see one of those myself. If so, obviously incorrect and the person has no clue. Run away. As Royse said, get a copy of ?WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR? ? it is the best document for either 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN correct setups. Now, there is the original OEM Ballast Resistor in all N electrical systems and THAT part IS USED IN ALL 12V conversions. Are you sure you don?t mean the Ballast Resistor and not the cutout they are two different animals you know? On a 12V conversion, the generator is swapped out, it should be, a 6V generator isn't going to charge a 12V battery, nor an 8-Volt battery for that matter, for an alternator and the cutout (9N/2N) or voltage regulator (8N) is eliminated from the circuit altogether. When using the original 6-VOLT Coil you need to add and external ceramic 1-OHM in-line resistor to the circuit. You can invest in a 12-VOLT front mount coil and eliminate using the ceramic resistor altogether ?my choice. That is the correct way to wire a 9N/2N for 12-VOLTS, oh, and don?t forget to swap out the 6V battery for a 12V battery, wired negative ground (best way). If you have 6-VOLT lamps/bulbs, you best replace with 12V lamps or else once you turn light switch ON you will let all the smoke out them? ; > ) GRIN. Really.
I just got a customers early 8N hauled in to my shop yesterday with a '12-volt switch-over job'. He wanted the points changed due to non-starting and had the front mount distributor already off the tractor and I see it is marked "12 VOLTS". The first thing I noticed is the OEM Ballast Resistor was gone completely and the ceramic resistor was mounted in place. This is another example of a hack/incorrect wiring job. I then placed the distributor on my test jig and it checks fine -points are working. I'll reinstall it, wire the system correctly then call him to
say he can come pick it up.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
i presume this is an alternator conversion?

no cutout, and make sure you get the correct ignition coil/resistor combo.
 

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