What is the point

I have a 1952 8N. I did a minor engine rebuild a few years ago
but in the 17 years I have owned this tractor it has never
really run right. Hard to start, subject to various failures at
any moment. Putting aside nostalgic comments about owning an
antique tractor, what is the point of putting money into a 65
year old tractor.
From a mechanical standpoint, everything that can wear out is
worn out. And the sheet metal is rusting away.
I found a professionally rebuilt engine for $3000.
That is only the tip of the iceberg. That much again to do the
transmission and hydrolics. Hundreds for the rear axle and
brakes. Hundreds more for the steering. Then hundreds more for
tank, wiring, electrical componets, radiator.
When properly done, you could have a 65 year old tractor, for
the cost of a new tractor that would give you hundreds of hours
of service with not nearly as many headaches.
So why bother?
 
They don't have to be "like they left the factory" to get a job done. Mine look bad, start & run good, seldom spend on them. Best/newest thing on them are probably their 17 year old tires. I could have a new air conditioned cab tractor if I wanted or needed it, but I don't. I'm not in love with the old tractors. They simply do what I need at little cost and not a soul would know an additional scratch or dent.
.....but we are all free to do as we wish.
 
I keep hearing that I am having problems
because I didn't do certain things "right".
I did things the way I did because I didn't
want to spend $10000 or more on a $2000
tractor. So it runs better with the choke
out. Big deal. It runs and I can mow.
That is all it needs to do.
 
Frustrations tend to run high when things don't go right.
Understandable.
Leaving nostalgia aside, this machine has already proven it's mettle
for over 65 years. It's a durable, reliable machine to be where it is.
There comes a time to stop throwing good money after bad, but if
this tractor does what you need/all you need, it's far cheaper to fix
it than it is to replace it. Trouble is figuring out what, exactly, to fix.
I believe that is the issue at hand here.

Do you have a neighbor/friend with an 8N that you could swap carbs
with? Might be a quick way to prove it is the problem or rule it out.
 
They can be very reliable if ran and maintained. Kept out of the weather makes a big difference. Aftermarket parts are not so great, especially points and coil and Carb. But most parts, used and new are readily available and relatively cheap. I think you have to have a little nostalgia and maybe have a knack for tinkering to love these old tractors. I have to admit, my Kubota just starts and runs without ever the need to fool with it, but I still enjoy maintaining and using the old tractors. But I would never want to depend on them to make a living.
 
Texas. Welcome to the world of n fords. I started running them in 1960, they had the same problems back then. I am glad we only lived 1.75 miles from the ford mechanic. Neighbor had 2-8-9 n. The 8n set on the dealers lot till the fall of 1956, when our neighbor bought it new. He had alheizmers. It had brake problems, power problems, front end problems. The ford mechanic told me "henry ford made the brakes on a n ford to be a little better than the brakes on a horse drawn covered wagon, but not much better". I ran IHC, JD, AC, oliver built in the same time period, they all were far better pieces of equipment than n fords. Best advice, sell it and buy a 4000su, look similar but a far better tractor.
 
My 8 n is the most used piece of equipment on this place. I’d be lost without it. For me, there is a point. All things considered, it does quit a bit of work for my $1500 investment. My other tractor is a 2007 model. The little n is more dependable than it is. Plus, it goes to the shop when it needs worked on. “So far”, I have been able to tackle the N’s issues with help from here, at the price of parts. My 4 wd loader tractor is such a lemon, I relegate it to only cutting/rolling hay, and feeding hay. Now, when it’s days are done, I’ll get a slightly bigger antique tractor, but I’ll never be without a using antique tractor.
 
"set on the dealers lot till the fall of 1956, when our neighbor bought it new."

So a machine sat for at least 4 years, through the introduction and end
of two newer models of Ford tractors and you expected it to be "new"?

"I ran IHC, JD, AC, oliver built in the same time period, they all"

Didn't have 3 pt hitch and most required proprietary equipment.
I still own a '53 JD, 36, 46, 48 and 53 Farmalls and a 1952 Case.
Sold the last AC I had. It was a 1948. Worthless other than shows.

If the Ford mechanic told you there was something wrong with
them "as designed", he had something else he was trying to sell
you. Salesmen do that. Some people believe it and repeat it.

"Best advice, sell it and buy a 4000su"

Yet you recommend another Ford.
I'll agree with you that the 4000SU is "a far better tractor."
Much newer with lots of technology advancements.
Still far more expensive than an N carb repair or replacement.

We know you have a vendetta against N tractors and that's Ok.
You're entitled to you opinion like all the rest of us are.
People searching the archives should find more than rhetoric though.
 
I read 1/2 of all Ns sold are running and it would be 99% if taken care of and not treated like a borrowed mule. They were and still are one of the best production tractors ever made they do alot of things on a gallons of gas. There are 10 Ns within spitting distance of my place 5 are sitting where they gave up due to lazy owners that wont ever drive them again and wont sell them because "their going to restore them" you bet they are, just as soon as they can locate the dipstick and check the oil. People are the problem not the machine.
 
Ya see what I mean people are the promble, choke out so it will run, have a little pride and fix it.
 
Needing the choke out to run isn't so difficult or expensive to fix.
For me the age of the tractor isn't the issue. I don't mind them old and I expect to have to work on them.
The issue for me is the Ns have no features.
Not a lot of HP, no live hydraulics, no live pto, no power steering, or differential lock or remote hydraulics. N engines have about half the longevity of a Hundred Series and a Third of a Thousand Series.
I had a couple of Ns for about 3 years before I wised up and traded into the 65 and newer models.
My go to tractor is a 3600.
It's a cheap old tractor that I have to work on from time to time.
But it has all the features I list above and will do twice the work an N will. As for economy, it is a diesel and will do more work on less fuel than an N can.
I think about guys who would even consider putting $3K into an N and wonder what the...
Why would anyone even consider that when you can buy a Way better tractor for about that price?
I do agree with Tom about one thing - a 4000 SU is a real tractor and not just a toy like everyone plays with here.
 
why bother?wether its my 2n or my te or my mc,their old/slower like me.i just like the simplicity of how they are built&operate.still working them in the fields&hedgerows.thats why I bother.
 
The N-Series Tractor was first introduced in mid-1939. The big selling feature was the newly developed 3-point hydraulic system with DRAFT CONTROL. That alone changed the entire world of farming in itself. There was no thought to add extra whistles and bells like power steering, live hydraulics, or even lights ?that all eventually came later as the N tractor and others that followed evolved. The N-Series is a great little workhorse. They are perfect for small hobby farms and for just mowing grass, brush hogging, and plowing snow. Economically, for the price nowadays, average $1200-$1800 for a running model, you can?t beat it even if investing for some minor repair/PM work. That is why there are so many N?s still working in the fields. Around here in mid-Michigan you can?t throw a rock without hitting a Ford Tractor, with many being an N. As stated, a big problem was that in their day, purchased new, farmers would run the snot out of them with many disregarding the PM schedules as outlined in the Operator?s Manual. Only when a problem arose would they then be concerned. That?s why we see many steering boxes, hydraulic systems, and engines on these N?s are worn due to being neglected over the years. Sure a Hundred Series is a better machine and a Thousand Series is even better than that. $3K seems a bit high just for an engine overhaul. I did mine in 2003 and it cost about $2000. You also need to realize that as a cost evaluation, a new KUBOTA, NH BOOMER, or JD Model is going to run into the $25K range or more. Any machine must be maintained effectively so there will be some annual costs involved. Rebuilding an N would cost about a third of that. Doing a complete restoration depends on how much you are willing to do and invest, especially if an early 9N that have the rare original parts which can be an adventure trying to acquire. If you want a good work tractor, a Hundred or Thousand is best, but expect to invest in PM costs no matter what you have.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
look around and find a good 8n for 1000 to 1500,seems like it can be done,,for 2000 you should be able to find a real good one,,if you like the 8n,,if not get a newer one,,dont spend 3000 on a motor for yours,,my 02 cents
 

Why bother, you ask...? It think it comes down to what [u:7033a86c03]you[/u:7033a86c03] want. If you want a 8N, then bother. If you don't want an 8N, then other tractors are available for you to bother.
 
Easier said than done.A few years ago I had a 1985 Chevy Silverado 1 ton that had set for 10 years because a prior owner had removed all the emission controls and put a Holly 4 barrel on it. When I decided to make it run again the distributor was full of ants, the carb was gummed up, the brakes didn't work, and a few dozen other things, A year later I could start it and drive it anywhere I wanted. Sold it for $3000. Cost me less than $1000 to repair and weekends for a year. I have put in more time looking for that choke problem than I want to think about, and still don't have an answer. A new TSC carb didn't fix the problem but introduced a whole new set of carb related problems. Rebuilding the original carb fixed the other carb problems but the choke problem remains. Rebuilding the engine fixed smoking, valve sticking, only running on three cylinders, and a few other problems, but the choke problem remains. So it isn't like I haven't tried. I have used propane 3 or 4 times to check the manifold with no luck. I could replace the manifold, but then I would be out another $60 if that isn't the problem.
 
They are next to impossible from a economics stand point to make a worn out one new, and then sell at a profit. the best you can do is get em newish and then get your use out of them.

better is to get an older one that is pretty good mechanically, even if it is suffering cosmetically, address a few issues as cheap as you can, and then run it like you stole it.

On those you can come out on top. If you only have 2200-2300$ in complete, and you can get a decade of use out of her.. then you are doing well. if you can keep patching her for a few years with not much coin invested you are good. when it gets down to repairs that are 1000$ and up on major systems, then you really need to look at the investment lifespan.
 
I put money into my 2N because it has an emotional value. The first tractor I learned to drive and operated for years was a 2N my dad owned. If I didn't have that connection, I wouldn't own it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:12 08/01/18) I have a 1952 8N. I did a minor engine rebuild a few years ago
but in the 17 years I have owned this tractor it has never
really run right. Hard to start, subject to various failures at
any moment. Putting aside nostalgic comments about owning an
antique tractor, what is the point of putting money into a 65
year old tractor.
From a mechanical standpoint, everything that can wear out is
worn out. And the sheet metal is rusting away.
I found a professionally rebuilt engine for $3000.
That is only the tip of the iceberg. That much again to do the
transmission and hydrolics. Hundreds for the rear axle and
brakes. Hundreds more for the steering. Then hundreds more for
tank, wiring, electrical componets, radiator.
When properly done, you could have a 65 year old tractor, for
the cost of a new tractor that would give you hundreds of hours
of service with not nearly as many headaches.
So why bother?

I have late 50 8n that I have had for 12 years and have really done little to it. Main thing was going 12 volts. My other 8n I bought for 400 and rebuilt the entire tractor ended up having 1500 or into it. I also converted it to 12 volts a year ago. Both of them look rough but both of them never fail to start since going to 12 volts. I would like, not need, a new orange machine but the one I want goes for about 20000 used. I don't want it that bad. My 8n's do everything I need to do with them and are totally paid for. they will most likely out last me.
 

Tractors are like any other machine there are some that run forever with minimal maintaince and some that are just plain lemons. Worst mistake of my life was when I inherited my dads 89GMC 1500 after he passed away. He had owned it trouble free for about 2 years before his death and put about 30k on it. No issues whatsoever! The truck ran great and even got 25 mpg highway (350, 700R4, 3.08 gears). But once he died the truck died with him. In the next 2 years I replaced the following: radiator, water pump, alternator, battery, thermostat, rear universal joint, entire front engine horseshoe accessory bracket, brakes, heater fan, oil pressure sending unit, entire exhaust, and the straw that broke the camels back was this spring when the tranny lost 3rd and 4th. I spent over 2k on a “free” inherited truck just for sentimental reasons... simply because it ran good at the time of death and it was my dads last truck. I’m going to scrap it now because I’m done with it. I once joked that I should just remove the hood because it spent more time with the hood up than down.

Tractors can be the same. Mine is a 42 2N. It seems to be one of the good ones. In a year all I’ve had to do was adjust brakes and replace the carb. Like someone said earlier, it ran better with the choke out but a replacement carb and tuning fixed that. It is cantankerous about starting in the winter but a magnetic block heater solves that. It has a little bit of blowby but it’s 75 years old, so that’s to be expected. The rust and den don’t bother me because they have zero effect on how well it brushhogs or blades snow. I know it will need a new clutch in the next few years but that doesn’t bother me. I paid 1700 for it with 3 new tires, brush hog and blade. I think I got a good deal. It does what I need it to do and does so reliably. I couldn’t ask for anything more... except for it to start better in winter!!!
 

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