Fuel Tank Liner

Does anyone know how the Fuel Tank Liner Part No: R2043 is distributed in the gas tank?? What I want to know is if the tank has to be removed so that it can be sloshed all around in the tank to get a good coating all over the entire inside of the tank. Also will it hold loose particles so that they stop circulating around the tank and end up in the fuel strainer?? My 8N tank has a lot of rust and the strainer wasn't on it so it only runs a few minutes at a time and I have to drain the tank and strain the fuel. So far I think I've done it 3 times and removed between a cup and a pint of solid rust particles, I just ordered a new sediment bowl and strainer assembly, but I don't know how much more loose rust is left in there. Was thinking a liner might solve the problem by binding the loose rust. Thanks

I'd line a fuel tank that was cost prohibitive or impossible to replace. That's not the case w/ an 8N tank.

$115 is a bargain. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Gasoline-Fuel-Tank-Steel_9N9002.html
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(quoted from post at 09:22:54 08/01/18) Does anyone know how the Fuel Tank Liner Part No: R2043 is distributed in the gas tank?? What I want to know is if the tank has to be removed so that it can be sloshed all around in the tank to get a good coating all over the entire inside of the tank. Also, will it hold loose particles so that they stop circulating around the tank and end up in the fuel strainer?? My 8N tank has a lot of rust and the strainer wasn't on it so it only runs a few minutes at a time and I have to drain the tank and strain the fuel. So far I think I've done it 3 times and removed between a cup and a pint of solid rust particles, I just ordered a new sediment bowl and strainer assembly, but I don't know how much more loose rust is left in there. Was thinking a liner might solve the problem by binding the loose rust. Thanks

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Yes, you will need to remove the tank so you can clean it out good and then seal it. You will have to remove all of the loose rust and dirt or the sealer will not stick and you will end up with a worse problem than you have now as you will forever be finding flakes of sealer in your gas system.
Here is how I do it:
After removing the tank, I like to put a short piece of chain or some bolts in the tank and then shake it around good to remove the loose stuff. I like to use something metal as I can use a magnet to remove them which can be hard to do sometimes if you use rocks or etc. Sometimes if the tank is pretty dirty/rusted I jack up one side of a tractor, strap the tank with the chain/bolts in it on to the raised wheel, put the tractor in gear and let the tank rotate for an hour or two and get everything knocked loose. Then I flush it out good with water followed with a muriatic acid/water mix (be careful with the muriatic acid). The goal is to get all of the rust, dried gas, any oily residue and etc out so the sealer can stick to the walls of the tank. After the inside dries, plug the port where the sediment bowl goes (I use an old sediment bowl) and pour in the sealer. Rotate the tank around so the sealer gets on all surfaces of the inside of the tank. Let that set and dry as per the instructions (at least 24 hours). I don't know which sealer you are referring to in your post but I have used several different ones over the years and they all seem to work well if the tank is properly prepped. Again, It has to be clean and dry before adding the sealer.
Or you can find a clean replacement tank at a tractor salvage yard.
Or You can buy a brand new tank from Dennis Carpenter.

On this auspicious occasion, I would very much agree with BruceVA answer. Get a new tank.

(quoted from post at 10:22:54 08/01/18) Does anyone know how the Fuel Tank Liner Part No: R2043 is distributed in the gas tank?? What I want to know is if the tank has to be removed so that it can be sloshed all around in the tank to get a good coating all over the entire inside of the tank. Also will it hold loose particles so that they stop circulating around the tank and end up in the fuel strainer?? My 8N tank has a lot of rust and the strainer wasn't on it so it only runs a few minutes at a time and I have to drain the tank and strain the fuel. So far I think I've done it 3 times and removed between a cup and a pint of solid rust particles, I just ordered a new sediment bowl and strainer assembly, but I don't know how much more loose rust is left in there. Was thinking a liner might solve the problem by binding the loose rust. Thanks

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I removed, cleaned and used a tank liner in one 8n tank. If I ever need to do it again, I will buy a new tank. cost is about the same by time you get one cleaned and relined.

For $115 I think I would go for a new tank. Thanks pretty cheap.

I've cleaned up a fair number of rusty motorcycle tanks and have not seen the need for a liner. Liners are problematic and prone to come loose.

The challenge with an 8N tank, based on mine, is it contains baffles. It would be impossible to get all the surfaces clean enough for the liner to adhere properly and to get the liner on all the surfaces.

If your tank is that rusty inside a new tank is the most cost effective option.

Thanks guys. I guess a new tank is what I'll end up with.