Ron7000

Member
My 2N is out of service account the salt water leaked through the rusted out rim. Don't know anything about tractor rims. The opposite rim is a one piece unit and has a small open space around the hub. You can't see through the rusted one at all to tell how it is constructed. Apparently there are 2 piece rims and I assume that is what I have. If I buy a 2 piece rim does that make tire mounting a DIY job or is it best left to an expert with proper tools?
 

Dunno about a 2 piece rim fer yer tractor never have seen one... I pay someone to do my tractor tars and enjoy every min. of it...

A pix of whut ya got would settle the issue...
 
If you haven't done it, take it to the pros. They can get you a rim too. Put a new tube in the tire when you put it on the rim.. Standing behind the tractor, looking forward, you will need tell them if the tire goes on the left or right side of the machine.
 
(quoted from post at 21:21:43 07/31/18) Whatever you wind up with, get rid of the salt water. I prefer used antifreeze.

Did I see they make a marine grade antifreeze for motor home septic systems that is dirt cheap ?
 
I take any tractor tires to the local farm store, where the guy wrestles them for however long and only charges $20-30 bucks labor. If you need a tube that will get a little more pricey.
 

I tried once to do my own 8N tires, then decided it wasn't worth the hassle. I since have used my local Firestone AG Tire Dealer, a thirty mile one way trip but well worth it. My first time using them, they came right to my farm and did the change there as they have a mobile service tech. They also have the right equipment, charge $18 to change and/or patch a tire, and my only worry is getting them on and off my trailer when I take them there. You'll need new rims -make sure rims and tires match, plus new tubes. By 2 piece rim I think you mean the rim with the center disc assembly. There are no 2-piece rims for these old Fords. There is the outer rim, all N's used the standard size of 10 x 28 with a center disc bolted to it. Note tire size is 11.2 x 28. The entire rear wheel assembly was then mounted to the tractor axle hubs/wheels. The 9N and 2N tractor used the riveted rear hubs and the center discs were different than the 8N and up. Centers in inter change with rims, but centers do not interchange with models. The 9N/2N rear hubs are a 6-bolt pattern and the 8N and up was an 8-bolt pattern both with different bolt hole patterns on each. If tires are good, have the dealer wash them out good, and if you don't need to, forget about adding liquid ballast. Back when the N's first came out, Calcium Chloride was the recommended substance to use for added weight/ballast. Cast iron wheel weights did not exist. Ca Chl is highly corrosive so once it began leaking out, usually first at the valve stem, it would eat up ferrous material like a cancer. That is what destroyed so many original hat rims sought after by restorers. If you must add ballast, I suggest a product called Rim Guard ? ?, often referred to as 'beet juice' because it is made from sugar beets, but is non-corrosive. It isn't the cheapest product, but I've been using it since 1995 with no issues at all. I even had it drained and reused in another set of tires after the originals rotted out. Some tire shops, radiator shops, and service stations salvage old anti-freeze and will sell it to you as the EPA gets picky on how to dispose of stuff now. The issue I have with using that stuff is you don't know what you are getting as it is all mixed and no doubt there is some water in it. Windshield wiper fluid is another substance but it too is now mixed with water. One other alternative for weight ballast are wheel weights. Your tractor, choice. For sure with new rims get new tubes as well no matter if old tires or new tires. Mixing Ca Chl with beet juice or anything else isn't good as you will have contaminated liquid and end up with oxidation all over. You best also get a set of the essential owner/operator manuals to see parts and operating procedures.

ESSENTIAL 9N/2N OWNER/OPERATOR MANUALS:
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ORIGINAL FORD 9 X 28 HAT RIMS WITH 8N CENTER DISCS, RESTORED:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
Ditto.. pic would be helpfull.

I used to do my own tires. havn't done one in 2 years. probably now, if one needs doing, I'll be paying instead of prying. :)
 
He may be talking about the two-piece rear wheel. The center section and the rim.

My rear rims were rusted through from the CaCL2. Rotten. It was more cost effective to get a new set of rims, tires, tubes already mounted from Tucker Tire (on eBay) than to mess with the components separately.
 

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