Restoration of a 52 8N. I am in the process of removing a leaking combo Sherman from the bell housing. I have difficulty in removing a stupid pin that holds the clutch release fork. Ground the pin bottom and tried to knock it out with a punch… no can do. I don’t have any other solutions except apply heat to the fork. I saw a video where this pin came out.. not mine. Any ideas?
- Thread starter NCmau
- Start date
Dollar Bill
Member
I have better luck removing rivets by drilling off the upset or swaged end and bevel the hole slightly using the drill bit.
I'm wondering if your pin isn't ground flush with the fork hole?
This info is too late for your particular situation but IIRC to disengage the fork from the release bearing, remove the clutch adjuster clevis and rotate the fork forward. Once fork is horizontal, the Sherman will slide past.
I'm wondering if your pin isn't ground flush with the fork hole?
This info is too late for your particular situation but IIRC to disengage the fork from the release bearing, remove the clutch adjuster clevis and rotate the fork forward. Once fork is horizontal, the Sherman will slide past.
Turn the fork down and slide the rod all the way to the side.
Unless Sherman is leaking from some place else other than the
input shaft it probably won't have to be totally removed. If
input shaft is leaking than just remoe the four bolts holding
the nose cone off and replace the seal. If you need to take the
whole Sherman out take the nose cone off and with the fork
turned down and move to the side you should be able to work the
rest of the Sherman over the rod. See my video on YouTube under
Sherman removal.
As Royse said you can always drill it out if nessisary.
Unless Sherman is leaking from some place else other than the
input shaft it probably won't have to be totally removed. If
input shaft is leaking than just remoe the four bolts holding
the nose cone off and replace the seal. If you need to take the
whole Sherman out take the nose cone off and with the fork
turned down and move to the side you should be able to work the
rest of the Sherman over the rod. See my video on YouTube under
Sherman removal.
As Royse said you can always drill it out if nessisary.
Kirk, I had seen all you Sherman video series before and I am glad you are a contributor to this site. I will try the drill first. I like to take the whole Sherman out for an inspection. If the pin does not come out, I guess I will try to slide it over the fork rod. It seems such an awful close tolerance, but if it is a proven procedure, I will certainly try it.
Well I got the infamous pin out by drilling, I had to drill a little offset but it work out great. Now I have the Sherman out. The input shaft needs a bearing and a seal badly. The output gear looks good, but it has a little play. I am not sure at this point if it should have any play or not. I will open it up tomorrow and check the rest of the gears. Is there a reason to take the mounting flange out?
BTW what is the best way to remove the throwout bearing out of its collar. Just got the new bearing and I was wondering.
Dollar Bill
Member
[color=darkblue:62f4000686][i:62f4000686][b:62f4000686]Is there a reason to take the mounting flange out?[/b:62f4000686][/i:62f4000686][/color:62f4000686] Only if you need to adjust preload of the output shaft - Shims used as seen in photo.
[color=darkblue:62f4000686][i:62f4000686][b:62f4000686]BTW what is the best way to remove the throwout bearing out of its collar[/b:62f4000686].[/i:62f4000686][/color:62f4000686] A press if you have one otherwise the bearing should easily come off with a few light hammer blows. It's only a slight interference fit.[b:62f4000686][/b:62f4000686]
[color=darkblue:62f4000686][i:62f4000686][b:62f4000686]BTW what is the best way to remove the throwout bearing out of its collar[/b:62f4000686].[/i:62f4000686][/color:62f4000686] A press if you have one otherwise the bearing should easily come off with a few light hammer blows. It's only a slight interference fit.[b:62f4000686][/b:62f4000686]
I got it open and what I see so far it looks great. I got the input bearing and the seal on order. Can not find the gaskets so I ordered material to make them (1/32” I suppose is the right thickness (?). I was going to order the clutch roller bearing but I can not find an available part No. The part no. I have is Hyatt 93316 but it can not cross referenced it to an available one. I am sure there is one somewhere. Maybe somebody will chime in.
Is there a gasket behind the mounting flange or the shims serve as gasket?
I think I will leave the mounting flange in place and skip the preload. This is not a new installation and during the short running period I experienced, I don’t recall a gear shifting problem.
Dollar Bill
Member
I crossed your Hyatt bearing to Timken J241232
Google P/N for bearing using parts guide.
The mounting plate flange requires a 1/64" gasket according to John Smith.
When installing shims, apply Permatex #2 sealer to the rear mating surface of the Sherman and the mounting plate. Paper gasket 9N7086 available on YT.
Google P/N for bearing using parts guide.
The mounting plate flange requires a 1/64" gasket according to John Smith.
When installing shims, apply Permatex #2 sealer to the rear mating surface of the Sherman and the mounting plate. Paper gasket 9N7086 available on YT.
Thanks Dollar Bill. Actually I did get the Timken cross-reference yesterday. When google place me in a deep account set up, I quit. I went back this morning and setup an account, we’ll see what happens.
Looking at the gasket I removed from the front cone, looks like all gasket are 1/64”.
Yes, you need a gasket between the flange plate and the main
trans wall. There is no reason to take the flange mounting plate
off unless you are putting new bearings in or your bearings are
so worn that you need to take some shims out for your pre
load.typically preload was done a rear of trans case but since
most Sherman's are added most people don't what to double split
the tractor. A hair loose is better than too tight.
trans wall. There is no reason to take the flange mounting plate
off unless you are putting new bearings in or your bearings are
so worn that you need to take some shims out for your pre
load.typically preload was done a rear of trans case but since
most Sherman's are added most people don't what to double split
the tractor. A hair loose is better than too tight.
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