bare wire

Moabdave · Jun 17, 2018

I have recently recieved an 8n in poor runnung condition. I am a newbie but with your help have discovered that the previous caretaker of the tractor had been trying to run it for a few years with negative ground, with limited success. I have researched what I need to do to remedy that, and have used the schematics to figure out some other electrical oddities that werent easily understandable, thanks for the tips.

My question is, I found that the wire that runs from the solenoid to the ammeter is bare braided wire, as though all of the sheathing has been burned off. Could this have been caused by the negative ground issue overheating it?

And what size wire should I replace it with?

Thanks in advance

grayrider · Jun 17, 2018

Use 10 gauge wire to ammeter

Bruce (VA) · Jun 17, 2018

" Could this have been caused by the negative ground issue overheating it?"

No.

Polarity rarely results in a performance problem. If you polarize the generator correctly, is will not present a charging problem either. 99% of 12v conversions are negative ground & perform just fine.
75 Tips

Moabdave · Jun 17, 2018

That leaves me perplexed as to why there is a bare braided wire, (much smaller than 10 gauge) connecting the solenoid to the ammeter. None of the nearby wires are bare, nor damaged.

Caryc · Jun 17, 2018

(quoted from post at 14:44:00 06/17/18)
That leaves me perplexed as to why there is a bare braided wire, (much smaller than 10 gauge) connecting the solenoid to the ammeter. None of the nearby wires are bare, nor damaged.

You are simply suffering from previous-owner-itus.

Moabdave · Jun 17, 2018

Caryc · Jun 17, 2018

(quoted from post at 17:08:30 06/17/18)

Yep, since "N's" have been around for 50 to 70 some years they've suffered from a lot of POI.

Moabdave · Jun 17, 2018

Thanks

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Jun 19, 2018

OK -NEG GRN ---is it 6V or 12V? 6V would use a generator and a voltage regulator, and originally they were wired as a positive ground system. Most 12V switch-over jobs use an alternator, a 12V battery and wired with a negative ground. Some just wire their 6V battery as negative ground, often when they get replaced and the owner/operator has no clue. Some just swap out their 6V battery with a 12V battery and change nothing else, some stay positive ground, some don't. Now a starter doesn't care whether its 6V or 12V but the rest of the circuit does. If not done correctly, a bad wiring job will eventually cause issues sooner if not later. Get out your copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" and find your set up then verify what you have matches it with no deviations if you wish to have ruble free operation electrically. No bare wires at all should be used except the large flat-braided ground strap on a 6V system. 10GA is good for 6V, and 14 GA or 12 GA wire works fine too. Get that solenoid to ammeter wire fixed pronto. Original induction ammeter?

Tim Daley(MI)

Moabdave · Jun 19, 2018

(quoted from post at 05:42:17 06/19/18) OK -NEG GRN ---is it 6V or 12V? 6V would use a generator and a voltage regulator, and originally they were wired as a positive ground system. Most 12V switch-over jobs use an alternator, a 12V battery and wired with a negative ground. Some just wire their 6V battery as negative ground, often when they get replaced and the owner/operator has no clue. Some just swap out their 6V battery with a 12V battery and change nothing else, some stay positive ground, some don't. Now a starter doesn't care whether its 6V or 12V but the rest of the circuit does. If not done correctly, a bad wiring job will eventually cause issues sooner if not later. Get out your copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" and find your set up then verify what you have matches it with no deviations if you wish to have ruble free operation electrically. No bare wires at all should be used except the large flat-braided ground strap on a 6V system. 10GA is good for 6V, and 14 GA or 12 GA wire works fine too. Get that solenoid to ammeter wire fixed pronto. Original induction ammeter?

Tim Daley(MI)

Thanks Tim. It is a 6 volt system, I changed it back to positive ground, polarized the gen, replaced the bare wire, figured out the mystery 3rd wire to the ignition(it was the lights) and moved it. I have compared the wiring to JMOR's schematics and adjusted where necessary.

I drained the radiator, installed a muffler and replaced the broken key assembly. It was leaking gas from the shutoff valve but that turned out to be a simple fix.
The tractor now runs and drives. It does not run very smoothly, so I was thinking of tuning it, changing the oil, plugs, and going from there. The oil pressure reads above 30 psi at higher rpm, it wont idle right now.
It has the original ammeter, which is busted, I'm gonna replace it.

bare wire

Moabdave

New User

grayrider

Well-known Member

Bruce (VA)

Well-known Member

Moabdave

New User

Caryc

Well-known Member

Moabdave

New User

Caryc

Well-known Member

Moabdave

New User

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP

Well-known Member

Moabdave

New User

Similar threads