Need Good Used Breaker Plate for 1947 Fordson 2N Front Mount

Ten Feather

New User
I have a 1947 Fordson 2N, 4 cylinder, front mount distributor. It just flat quit running the other day. The Coil burned up. I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, points and condensor. It is a 12 volt conversion and has ran great for 3 years. So, I installed an in-line Resistor. It started up and ran for about an hour, then quit! I took the distributor back out and found that the copper ribbon going from the mounting where the coil spring touches that screw to the points screw was shorting out on the condensor wire end and is burned almost into. Does anyone out there have a Distributor Breaker Plate with a good copper ribbon? if so, please call Charlie,
(858)945-6838 or E-Mail me at:: [email protected]. :?: :?:
 
First of all, that does not make sense, since the condenser wire is common to that strip electrically. Next, you apparently only need the copper strip, not the breaker plate. If so, just cut a copper strip or even easier, use a piece from the old points to make such strip.
 
HiYa Charlie. First, this is to help you so don't take it the wrong way. Let's correct and study a couple of things you said, then lastly we will discuss a distributor plate. There is no such thing as a FORDSON 2N tractor. Fordson tractors were produced before the FORD 2N. The N-Series Model was first introduced as the Ford-Ferguson 9N Model to the world on June 29, 1939 at Fair Lane. In late 1942 the 2N Model was released as the new model only as a wartime unit on steel wheels, and no electrics. In early 1943 wartime restrictions were lifted and Ford was able to resume normal 2N production with rubber tires, battery, starter, generator, and cutout. Next, how do you know the coil 'burned up'? If it indeed did, then that alone should have told you something was not right with the wiring. Hang on to the old coil; once you determine the wiring is correct and tractor runs you can swap out new coil with old one and see if still works. Just replacing parts without first determining the true root cause is not a wise nor effective way of diagnosing any problem. "...so I installed an in-line resistor..." Again, why just install a new part? We'll get back to the ceramic 1 OHM in-line resistor in a minute but back to some facts. Know that the original electrical systems on Ford vehicles was a 6-Volt/Positive Ground set up. There is not a thing wrong with that nor keeping your vehicle that way. Many of us still have 6-volt systems and when maintained properly work just fine, even in cold weather. Later on fellers figured out the system could be wired up with a 12-volt source/system. The important fact about 12-volt switch-over jobs is that they must be wired correctly in order to function properly. Many jobs are NOT done correctly and thus non-starting/non-running issues result. If you read this forum everyday you will see that not a day goes by without at least one post just like yours -all due to incorrect 12-volt switch jobs. There are but maybe half dozen ways to correctly do a 12-volt job on an N and probably a hundred incorrect ways. I think I've seen most incorrect ways. Some guys think just by swapping the 6-volt battery with a 12-volt battery automatically 'converts' it. Not true. Let's begin with the wiring. Verify battery is good by having it tested under load at a starter/parts shop. A 12V battery should be a GRP-25 or GRP 35 AG type, not an automotive, deep cycle, or golf cart unit. The battery cables must be the 12 volt style, not the thicker ones used on 6 volts. You say you added the ceramic external resistor, but is the original Ballast Resistor wired in place? It should be. Where in the circuit did you install the external resistor? Is your new coil 6V or 12V? With a 6V coil, you must use the external in-line ceramic 1 OHM resistor, with a 12V coil you do not use it, but with either or you do need the original ballast resistor. You have an alternator too, right? 1-wire or 3-wire? With a 12V switch over, you remove the generator and the round can cutout circuit. Get a copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" and review all the CORRECT ways to wired these N's whether 6V or 12V. If you don't have one, and want a free copy, just google the phrase to get to the other N-Tractor site. All Ford 9N, 2N, and early 8N models used the front mount distributor, with a generator, but only the early 9Ns and the 8Ns used a rectangular voltage regulator. The 1940-1947 2N models used the round can cutout. As mentioned, neither a cutout nor voltage regulator nor generator are used in a proper 12v job. As far as a distributor plate for your front mount, I can help, but first here are your options to seriously consider. Since you desire to keep your 12V system, that's fine, but now think about adding Electronic Ignition too. That way no more worry about points and a distributor. Option 3 is to buy an original distributor off fleabay and use the plate from it. My choice/advice is to go with an EI addition. Keep that in mind but first things first. Get your wiring corrected first -my hunch tells me that is your root cause problem. Finally, you should never put your phone number in a post -too easy for hackers/phishing spammers to acquire it. Also, don't put your email addy in your post for same reasons. In the dialog box where you enter your name, there is a place to enter your email address too. It will display in your message simply as "EMAIL" highlighted in blue (Classic View) at the bottom of your message. You just click on it to send an email securely. My email is open if you want to discuss off line.


ORIGINAL FORD 9N/2N WIRING DIAGRAM FOR REFERNCE BALLAST RESISTOR CONNECTIONS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 02:39:54 06/14/18) First of all, that does not make sense, since the condenser wire is common to that strip electrically. Next, you apparently only need the copper strip, not the breaker plate. If so, just cut a copper strip or even easier, use a piece from the old points to make such strip.

Hey, Thanks, I will do that! Did not know that would work! Did not want to order a after-market, because they say you might have to modify for Timing Screw to line up. Actually, the coil burned up because when it just quit, I did not turn the key off! It sat there for 2 days before I noticed.
 

Hi Tim, lot of good information and advice. Actually, the Tractor is a 1947 2N according to the Title. The guy I bought it from told me it was called a Fordson. Anyway, all you provided me with is great! However, I am a pretty fair mechanic and the first thing I did was get out my Ohm Meter and started with the wiring at the Starter Button. All was good till I got to the Coil. I had 12 Amps to the Coil, but nothing to the plugs! I took the Distributor off and the Coil and took it to my friend at Valley Tractor in San Diego. He bench tested my Coil and there was no spark coming out of Coil! He then hooked up power to the Distributor and bench tested it and found the copper strip and condensor shorted out to the plate and said if I replaced it, all will be well, but I guess i only need the copper strip! Also, the Tractor was converted at Valley Tractor. Thank You! I actually left the key on for 2 days and burned up the Coil!!
 
Tim, Please explain this one and why do they have to be replaced Just like to know? The battery cables must be the 12 volt style, not the thicker ones used on 6 volts.
 
12 Amps? I think you mean 12 volts don't you? the funny thing about coils is the only true test is in actual use. You can have a defective coil internally but won't know until it gets hot. If it got burnt up at some point, like leaving key switch on at shut off and points were closed, the inside insulating tar melted. Once coil cools down, the tractor may restart again, but once it gets hot, the tar that melted will allow it to short out. You can test a coil continuity static with an OHM METER, but, no guarantee it is still a good coil. a 6V coil will have about a 1.3 OHM reading. I'm not the electronic gurus -Bruce(VA) and JMOR are the experts. Like JMOR said, the copper strip can't short out the condenser to plate. The shop you mention and use has no concern to me. I only suggest you use one that knows all about these old Ford electronic systems. Many shops today have no clue and their only solution is to convert an old 6V Ford over to 12 Volts. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but many do not know how to do a correct conversion either. That is why I strongly suggest one does their homework, knows what is supposed to be right before going in and then ask questions when there. If the shop cannot tell you what they will do, what parts will be supplied, then walk out and find another who does know. One simple question should tell you. Ask them how they will wire a 12V conversion with a 6-volt coil. If they can't tell you to add an external ceramic 1-OHM in-line resistor, in addition to the OEM Ballast Resistor, walk away.

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Well Tim I know that 6 volt systems use and need bigger battery cables to carry amp load. You say The 6 Volt system needs heavier gauge cables. That wasn't my question and not what you posted.You said (quote) The battery cables must be the 12 volt style, not the thicker ones used on 6 volts.That was my question why heavy 6 volt cables could not be used with a 12 volt system.
 
That's a good question Den I thought the heaver 6 volt cables would be fine when doing a 12 volt conversion. I used my 6v cables when I converted to 12v haven't had a minutes trouble with it in 10 years since I did.
 
(reply to post at 17:30:51 06/15/18)

7 years and counting for me with a 12 volt battery, 6 volt cables, and a 6 volt coil with no added ceramic blob resistor. i was sure i had finally burned the coil up last summer, but it turned out to be the ignition switch or the condenser.

not recommending the coil thing to anyone else - YMMV - but i can't see the harm in heavier than needed battery cables.
 

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