2N no start

Jono56

New User
Howdy group. Got an problem that I cannot figure out. Kids left the keys on the tractor and burned points up. I replaced the points and coil but now the tractor wont start. I set my gaps correct @.015 but still nothing. Coil is getting voltage on top, but I am not getting any spark. I hooked a test light in series and watch it light on and off. I assume that is the points opening and closing. I also checked continunity when I checked point gap.

Driving me nuts and I am out of ideas. Any advice?

Thanks,

Jon
 
38. If you forget and leave the ignition key on and the points just happen to be closed when the engine stopped turning, the chances are about 99 percent that the points are burned up. If you are very unlucky, so is the coil. Turn the key off.
This is from Bruce's 75 Tips when you get your tractor up and running 75 tips is a must read.
 
The first thing you need to check is for battery voltage at the coil. Yes, you need a meter for that, not a light. With the key on, you should see battery voltage battery with the points open and about half that with the points closed. If you do not see either, the problem is between the battery and the coil, e.g., the resistor, ignition switch or a bad connection.

Assuming that the bushings & advance weights are ok (*see below), & that you have correct voltage to the coil , the most common reasons for no spark or a weak spark on the front distributor are below. Check each one carefully. Even if you find a problem, check all 10:

1. The insulator under the brass concave head screw & where the copper strip attaches. (it's fiber & will wear out; poke & prod w/ your meter leads to make sure it still works) If you need to replace the insulator, use a .250 x 3/8 nylon square nylon anchor nut available at most big box home stores.

2. The pigtail at the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the concave head brass screw inside the distributor. (With the coil on, the pigtail must firmly contact the brass screw. No contact = no spark) Check for continuity between the top of the coil and the pig tail; a 6 volt coil will be around 1 ohm & a 12 volt coil should be 2 to 3 ohms.

3. The copper strip is broken or grounded to the plate. (look very carefully for cracks & breaks) .

4. The distributor is not grounded to the block because of paint or grease acting as an insulator. Or the points plate is covered in oil.

5. The tab on the bottom of the coil not making contact w/ the brass button on the cap. (With the cap on, the tab must firmly contact the brass button. No contact = no spark.) Check for continuity between the top of the coil and the tab; you should see about 6k ohms.

6. A grounding issue inside the distributor: Incorrect positioning of the spring clip on the plate causing the pigtail to ground. (the open part of the clip goes between 7 & 9 o'clock on the plate. That puts the straight part of the clip opposite of the timing screw at 3 o'clock) or the condenser wire is grounding to the plate or side of the distributor.

7. Incorrect seating of the coil on the distributor due to a loose bail or no gasket.(the coil must not move at all; if it does, replace the gasket or bail. Or stick some cardboard under the bail).

8. Water/moisture inside the cap due to gasket failure or the absence of a gasket. (the cap AND coil have gaskets)

9. Dirty/corroded/burned/incorrectly gapped or misaligned points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points. If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. If the tractor has been sitting unused for a few months, it?s highly likely that the points are glazed. Dress them with brown paper or card stock. Do NOT use a file or sandpaper. That removes the thin metallic coating on the surface and reduces point life considerably. With the points closed, you should have continuity between them; high resistance means they are glazed.

10. Burned rotor, cracked/carbon tracked cap. Brass ?dust? in the cap is a sure sign of bushing wear.

After find the problem & re-check the point gap, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a 'no spark' problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

* Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move. The tracks should not be wallowed out.
75 Tips
 

It may look like a lot to do but using Bruce's above check list got my 8n back in running order this spring.. I am by no means a ignition whiz, far from it but learning a lot being here at YT.

At some point I just decided what the heck I have no option but to follow the advice available here.. and you know what,? it worked.. lol

Bruce's checklist posted above allowed me to get it right.. Without it I would have been just shooting in the dark..
 
Thanks everyone! I am going to double check everything. I have 3.5 volts at the top of the coil. I am wondering if I bought a 12 volt coil instead of a 6v? Box the coil came in is long gone..
 
Thanks Bruce, I am going to work through your checklist. I did notice that the new coil spring did not line up very good with concave screw. I had to bend it over to get it to line up. Would a 12 coil cause a no fire? I am guessing that I might have bought a 12 volt from TSC by accident. Should have kept the original Ford one that came with the tractor...
 
"Would a 12 coil cause a no fire?"

No.

But it will get you a weak spark. Does your spark jump 1/4" in open air?

" I had to bend it over to get it to line up."

If the pigtail does not contact the screw, or it's grounding to the base, that would cause no spark. Someone probably twisted the plate trying to set the timing.
75 Tips
 
Okay, So I did not have spark. I replaced the distributor and I now have spark. My issue is that the tractor still wont fire. I can get it to fire on ether. I checked the fuel bowl and no fuel coming out. Newer carb, so I pulled it apart and got fuel to run in the bowl but still wont fire. Any other tips?

Jon
 

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