pull type rotary cutter

motorstuff52

New User
Hi,

I am thinking about getting a pull type 5 foot rotary cutter for our 8N. I am thinking about a pull type cutter as I have read that the front end can get a light with a 3 point mount rotary cutter. I would like to hear from someone who has used a pull type and how well it works. Also, can you use the 8N 3 point with the 3 point mounted drawbar to raise and lower the front of the cutter? Thanks
 
I?ve never had one, but have been looking for one.
Don?t think three point pull is good idea, draw bar pull only. And if you were to try and pull from three point hitch the drive shaft maybe too short to hook up to pto
 
I would think a 5' 3 point would be fine. I have a 6' Landpride (2572) finish mower on my 8n and front end lightness isn't a problem. The 2572 is a fairly heavy mower.
 
I don't know why anyone with a 3 point tractor would want a pull type rotary mower - or set of discs, or plow or whatever.
You have one of the biggest agricultural imrovements ever invented on your tractor. Use it.
As for a light front end how big or heavy of a mower do you think you need.
Most of us have Zero issues with your typical 5' lightweight mower - kingkutter, tractor supply, etc.
 
I have a very heavy 3 point 5' that came with a 8n my neighbor gave me to haul off. He had a loader on the front and said the loader must be on the unit to keep the front end on the ground.
 
My experience:

Got a six foot pull type shredder for free. Bush Hog SQ72. Spent $300 on parts, several hours labor. Was "like new". Had to disengage PTO to turn, backing into corners a real pain, scarey long PTO drive shaft with nothing to contain it if it should come loose from ORC. It was so far back that anything it threw out the front could have hit me. Built a "headache rack" from expanded metal with a 1/2" belting flap so there would be something between me and anything it pitched out "just in case". Used it 1 hour. Sold it for $250.

Got a five foot 3pt shredder. Bush Hog RZ60. Very happy with it. No problem turning or backing. No problem with light front end either. Much less scarey. In about 150 hours of use once it threw a rock out the front. It hit the front axle. Three point is the only way to go for me.
 
(quoted from post at 16:25:34 06/10/18) Hi,

I am thinking about getting a pull type 5 foot rotary cutter for our 8N. I am thinking about a pull type cutter as I have read that the front end can get a light with a 3 point mount rotary cutter. I would like to hear from someone who has used a pull type and how well it works. Also, can you use the 8N 3 point with the 3 point mounted drawbar to raise and lower the front of the cutter? Thanks

My old 5' Mohawk brush hog keeps the front of my 9N tap dancing and rally needs some front ballast. Pull behind cutters work fine but you have to be careful not to get them hung up on ground obstructions. Height adjustment is usually done using the rear wheels and the front is typically a fixed tongue designed to attach to an under axle drawbar. If you wanted to use the 3pt drawbar it could be used to set front cut height but would need stabilizer and stay bars so no lift. I would be fine with one for mowing open fields - not so happy hogging my woods.

TOH
 
No problem with a 5ft bush hog, its perfect for your N If you dont have one of these you NEED ONE. GOOGLE Part No: C670F. Just as important is a proper SHEER BOLT.If you dont have a proper sheer bolt and you hit a hard stationary object it will cost you $100,000 in damages. Not really but it can cost a lot, just wanted you to be aware of how important a sheer bolt is. Now go to youtube and search 8N tractor with a Bush Hog or rotory mower. Post back any ?s
 


I have a 6' King Kutter shredder I use on my 8N occasionally. It's heavier than a tin horse and does lighten up the front of the tractor when I lift it completely off the ground. The secret is to use your brake to help turn the tractor at the end of the field. Especially if you lift it high enough to bring the rear wheel on the mower off the ground.
 

i have an old 5' howse. it was hooked up to my N once, to move it. it will never be hooked to it again. "light in the front" was an understatement in this case.

disclaimer: that howse is HEAVY. i'm guessing nothing made these days is within... 200 or more pounds?
 
I used a pull type behind a John Deere tractor for years.
Corners had to be rounded curves or the PTO shaft would bind.
That wasn't an issue for us, just something we had to watch.
Backing it up wasn't an issue, because it was hooked to a fixed
drawbar, just don't jack-knife it. Hooked to a 3 pt drawbar where
it could swing side to side might be an issue. I've not tried that.
 
(quoted from post at 14:38:04 06/10/18)
(quoted from post at 16:25:34 06/10/18) Hi,

I am thinking about getting a pull type 5 foot rotary cutter for our 8N. I am thinking about a pull type cutter as I have read that the front end can get a light with a 3 point mount rotary cutter. I would like to hear from someone who has used a pull type and how well it works. Also, can you use the 8N 3 point with the 3 point mounted drawbar to raise and lower the front of the cutter? Thanks

My old 5' Mohawk brush hog keeps the front of my 9N tap dancing and rally needs some front ballast. Pull behind cutters work fine but you have to be careful not to get them hung up on ground obstructions. Height adjustment is usually done using the rear wheels and the front is typically a fixed tongue designed to attach to an under axle drawbar. If you wanted to use the 3pt drawbar it could be used to set front cut height but would need stabilizer and stay bars so no lift. I would be fine with one for mowing open fields - not so happy hogging my woods.

TOH

For that tap dancing 9N, have you tried loading the front tires? When I got my MF202, it needed a new front tire. When I took the old one off, I couldn't believe how heavy it was. It was loaded. The other tire is still loaded but the new one isn't now.
 
Grayrider,have you seen the Case pull behind mower I have on Birmingham Craigslist? It can be bought cheaper than advertised.
 
Thanks to all who replied with the good advice. One option is a used 60 inch Bush Hog Squealer 3 point cutter, which I think weights about 630 pounds. Would the 8N handle this OK?
 

I use a 5 ft KingKutter brush hog on my 8n all the time. My ground is somewhat rough and has some hills.. I don't really have any big problems.. I have the cutter chained to the height I want it at.. but a little extra weight on the front end might not be a bad idea..
It does get a little light in the front end at times.

I would think a pull behind mower would be suited for some nice level ground if that's what you have.. I would not want one in my situation I don't think..
 
The Squealer line from Bush Hog is their lighter line. The one you mention would be a good match for your N.
It sure doesn't hurt to add some ballast to your tractor.
Ballast - both front and rear makes for a more stable platform.
You can put fluid in your front tires, find some front wheel weights or buy a cheap 4 bar front bumper and add weight to that. Some guys drape a bunch of chains on the bumper or add anvils, manhole covers engine heads or whatever on the bumper. I run a later model Ford and have 180 lbs of bumper weights on it.
I have found my tires scuff the lawn less with front weight too and it really helps to keep the front end planted on the ground.
 
My advice is to stick with the 3-Pt lift implements -that's why the 3-pt was invented for -so much better than any pull-type implement. An advantage of the 8N hydraulic system was the addition of POSITION CONTROL. You can set your height level with the touch control quadrant stop and also use the leveling crank to adjust front to back/left to right tilt. Raising and lowering the mower when not desired to have it engaged is a benefit over the pull type as well. I've used my 8N to mow/brush hog without any front end ballast, with 4 x 19 front wheels/tires and never had any issues with the front end raising up. Years ago I bought a set of the Ford 2-piece front wheel weights, a used set of 16" rims, and a new set of Firestone Reproduction 'Guide Grip' style 6.0 a x 16 tires and use them exclusively for my working set-up. My 11.2 x 28 rear Firestone Field & Roads are loaded with Beet Juice (Rim Guard ??). No mucking around: I just leave them all on for whatever task -plowing, discing, cultivating, snow removal, mowing, and lifting with the boom. The Ford 2-piece front wheel weights add 90-lbs to each side. I also recommend using stabilizer bars with a hog/mower, boom, and back blade -they are not required but in my opinion, they are a huge improvement with controlling rear end sway mostly on turns with the mower, boom lifting, and back blading snow or dirt.


1948 FORD 8N w/WOODS 660 MOWER AND STABILIZER BARS:
vDWgl1Kl.jpg

FORD 2-PIECE FRONT WHEEL WEIGHTS FOR 16? RIMS:
EHkPasul.jpg

FIRESTONE REPOP 6.0 X 16 ?GUIDE GRIP? STYLE TIRE:
oQqcVuil.jpg

Tim "PloughNman" Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 19:35:33 06/10/18) Thanks to all who replied with the good advice. One option is a used 60 inch Bush Hog Squealer 3 point cutter, which I think weights about 630 pounds. Would the 8N handle this OK?

I run a 68" Meteor snowblower that weighs 672 pounds on my 9N and it handles it fine. It was a little light in the front end going up my hilly driveway if the implement was fully lifted so I added ballast to the front tires and a 42 lb. suitcase weight on the front bumper. I'll probably add another suitcase weight next season but it does fine as it is now.
 

iirc, the reverse speed on my 2N is somewhat slower than an 8N. i wouldn't worry about mowing in forward at that speed, but i try to avoid mowing in reverse.
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:10 06/11/18)
iirc, the reverse speed on my 2N is somewhat slower than an 8N. i wouldn't worry about mowing in forward at that speed, but i try to avoid mowing in reverse.

8N here and I don't remember ever mowing in reverse. I've lifted the mower and backed into some tight places then lowered the mower and pulled out.
 
(quoted from post at 14:49:36 06/11/18)
(quoted from post at 10:10:10 06/11/18)
iirc, the reverse speed on my 2N is somewhat slower than an 8N. i wouldn't worry about mowing in forward at that speed, but i try to avoid mowing in reverse.

8N here and I don't remember ever mowing in reverse. I've lifted the mower and backed into some tight places then lowered the mower and pulled out.

there have been occasions here where the stuff was just too tall and thick to do that. unfortunately, sometimes, i need to get to the area which needs mowing with the blades already up to speed.
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:19 06/11/18)
(quoted from post at 14:49:36 06/11/18)
(quoted from post at 10:10:10 06/11/18)
iirc, the reverse speed on my 2N is somewhat slower than an 8N. i wouldn't worry about mowing in forward at that speed, but i try to avoid mowing in reverse.

8N here and I don't remember ever mowing in reverse. I've lifted the mower and backed into some tight places then lowered the mower and pulled out.

there have been occasions here where the stuff was just too tall and thick to do that. unfortunately, sometimes, i need to get to the area which needs mowing with the blades already up to speed.

i suppose i should add a couple of things. i don't like mowing in reverse or raising the mower with the N. if i really feel the need to do either, i'll put the mower on my WD.

the only time i'd be mowing spots like this with either tractor is when my riding mower is out of commission. it handles this kind of thing surprisingly well. but, while u CAN mow with an Intek engine with a blown head gasket - i don't recommend it :cry:
 
(quoted from post at 13:25:34 06/10/18) Hi,

I am thinking about getting a pull type 5 foot rotary cutter for our 8N. I am thinking about a pull type cutter as I have read that the front end can get a light with a 3 point mount rotary cutter. I would like to hear from someone who has used a pull type and how well it works. Also, can you use the 8N 3 point with the 3 point mounted drawbar to raise and lower the front of the cutter? Thanks

You could always get yourself one of these bad boys and kick back in a lawn chair and mow. Of course you might have to mow a little more often.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNODJ9LOOcA
 
I have that same 6' Landpride finish mower blackhole has, and no problems on light front end. Need to take it easy when I pull into the shop and jump the 4" slab, so I just keep it low for that. Other than that my 2N is pulling pretty hard for the 6 footer. You should be fine with an 8N and a 5 footer. This is assuming you aren't mowing on steep grades !
 
I got an old Ford brush hog with my tractor. Heavy, yes. I'm looking to adding calcium to a set of front tires, and maybe investing in suitcase weights. Reverse IS fast. All I've done is turn the throttle back, reverse in to position, put the tranny in neutral to get the deck up.to 540 rpm and lower it.
 
(reply to post at 18:29:48 06/11/18)

Ultradog wrote: "Reverse speed on an 8N is so ridiculously fast that I think it is the worst reverse ever installed on a tractor."

Oddball wrote: "These tanks are faster than any other tanks in the European theater of operations, forwards or backwards. You see, man, we like to feel that we can get out of trouble quicker than we got into it."
 
"Reverse speed on an 8N is so ridiculously fast that I think it is the worst reverse ever installed on a tractor."

C'mon Jerry, the Hi range reverse on a 3000 is way faster than an 8N.
Granted, they have the option of the low range reverse, but still, the high range reverse is even more ridiculous.
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:21 06/12/18) "Reverse speed on an 8N is so ridiculously fast that I think it is the worst reverse ever installed on a tractor."

C'mon Jerry, the Hi range reverse on a 3000 is way faster than an 8N.
Granted, they have the option of the low range reverse, but still, the high range reverse is even more ridiculous.

I was once told there is a time and place for everything and I would point out that there are times when a fast reverse is very desirable. Case in point. My little Kubota has a 3 speed transmission with Hi/Lo rear end for six forward and two reverse speeds. Just like the 3000 Hi reverse (R2) is way too fast for most "tractor" things but R1 works beautfully. But when doing loader work R1 is usually way to slow and R2 is perfect.

The problem you get with these dual speed transmission designs is the overhead involved in switching between the speed ranges. When doing loader work with the Kubby the Hi range forward gears are generally too fast for loading from a pile so I wind up shifting twice (main transmission and rear axle) to a low range forward gear to load and then twice again to R2 for reversing and turning from the pile, and then once more into a Hi range or twice more into a low range forward gear to transport. That is why hydrostatic transmissions have become the predominate transmission of choice for modern utility tractors. You get infinite high or low speed gear selection in forward or reverse when you need it and with minimal operator overhead.

TOH
 

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