dtfap

New User
I have a 9n. It has been running great but this last time I tried to start it I was able to fire it up briefly and then it died. (this is pretty typical- I generally have to fire it up a couple of times and nurse it with the choke until it stays running) However after it died it wouldn't even turn over again. No clicking, nothing- like the battery cables came disconnected. However, I checked the cables with a volt meter and I have power to the tractor and to the starter. It is not in gear and the mechanism the starter button seems to be working (I checked it with an ohm meter) Is this a solenoid issue? I'm pretty sure the starter is good because all the brushes are pretty new but how do I check the starter if I take it off the tractor?
 
Unless someone added it, a 9N does not have
a solenoid. It has a mechanical start
switch. Does your tractor have a mechanical
start switch or a solenoid?

Start with the battery. See tip # 49. Once
you are sure the battery is good, then move
on to cables, connections, the start
switch, etc.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 20:40:48 06/06/18)
However, I checked the cables with a volt meter and I have power to the tractor and to the starter.

u say u have power - how much? what are the voltage readings? and remember - 4 AA batteries wired in series will read 6v on a meter - but............

how do I check the starter if I take it off the tractor?

i'd just take it to my local auto parts store to be tested.
 
try putting power direct to starter with jumpers. Ground to frame. MAKE SURE TRACTOR IS OUT OF GEAR SO THE STARTER DOESN'T ROLL THE TRACTOR INTO YOU
 

You can have voltage through the cables but not enough to drive the starter. Check the voltage at the starter with the start button depressed. Checking voltage with the button depressed will enable you to isolate a bad connection.
 
It's not a starter issue, leave it alone. First, 6V/POS GRN or a 12V switchover job? Next, like Bruce said, ALL 9N and 2N starters did not use a solenoid on the starter. There should only be one wire going to the terminal post on the barrel back to the negative ground on the battery. Then, you need to get your battery checked. It must sustain a full charge UNDER LOAD in order to be effective. Your local starter/alternator shop can test or even some franchise auto parts stores too. Specific gravity can be checked by yourself with a hydrometer too. You don't say, but simply measuring battery voltage static with your Multi-Meter will tell you if battery is being charged. "Nursing the choke out" is a sign your carb is set too rich. The next step is the wiring. If 6V do you have the correct generator with the round can cutout? If 12V no cutout used, but the original ballast resistor is required on either 6V or 12V. If 12V and using the 6V coil, you need the external ceramic in-line resistor in the circuit. If you are 12V and have a 12V coil, no need for the extra resistor. SEE BRUCES 75 Tips. Fuel, Spark, and Compression are needed to operate correctly. Concentrate on the first two items for now. I suspect you have a multitude of issues going on. First, get battery tested. While that is happening, go thru the entire wiring system using "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" as it has all the CORRECT ways to wire these N's whether 6V or 12V. Working on anything electrical requires you to disconnect the battery first regardless to avoid accidental shorts. If you have lights, disconnect them for now -can reconnect once root cause is determined. Check for fuel flow, tractor does not run for this test. Next check for spark -tractor needs to crank for this test but does not need to run. Problem solving requires a systematic root cause determination procedure. Never assume anything and certainly don't guess. "...I'm pretty sure the starter is good..." is not the way to proceed. there are ways to motor test the starter and generator, but like I first said, leave the starter alone. Your starter shop can bench test those components too if it becomes necessary. Finally, as an N-Owner, invest in the essential manuals if you don't have them. .

9N/2N ORIGINAL 6V/POS GRN WIRING DIAGRAM:
QWaC1aah.jpg

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNERS MANUALS:
i2gbSeol.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Hi dtfap, good advice from the others, but before getting too involved, try cleaning the battery connections first at the battery and if that doesn't help then the other end of the battery cables. Make them clean, bright and tight. If that doesn't help, then go into the step by step trouble shooting procedures. It doesn't take any current to read voltage with a volt meter, but it takes a lot to run the starter. To push amps through the starter it takes all of the 6/12 volts. If the connections are loose or dirty that can't happen. Let us know how you did.
 
It is often the simplest thing. I charged up the battery (I use a 12 volt) and did an extra good job of cleaning the cables. It starts fine. These tractors are amazing tools. I have built two log
houses with my 9n and kept it running for 35 years. Even somebody like me who has minimal mechanical know-how can get some good work out of these tractors- (with the help of the YT
Forum of course). Thanks for all the advice.
 

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