Pto shaft conversion

2n ford

Member
Getting ready to change the pto shaft from 1 1/8” to 1 3/8” on the 2n ford. Any recommendations for when I do this? Some said park it on an incline to avoid having to drain fluid. Is this ok to do? Also should I have the pto lever engaged or disengaged when changing shafts? Any tips or thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
I would take that change as an opportunity to change the hydraulic
fluid and clean out the bottom of the sump as it likely hasn't been
done in years. The oil would add about $35 to the cost of the job.
PTO disengaged. If you run a rotary mower, you will need a new ORC.
 
If you front seal is leaking, parking it on
an incline could easily fill your bell
housing with oil. Then you get to replace
the clutch.
75 Tips
 
You really don't need to do that. They make a coupler you can buy on ebay that will just slide over you smaller shaft to make it 1 3/8. I just put one on my jubilee. 12 bucks and 2 minutes to install.
 
I tried the coupler first and it was unable to slide far enough on to get the roll pin installed. Same thing happened when I tried this with an ORC. This is why I’m just replacing the shaft to make everything fit properly. Nothing seems to go easy for me lol
 
I changed that shaft the other day and the fluid and went to a quick disconnect ORC so I don't have to mess with the roll pin anymore.
 
(quoted from post at 07:48:38 06/04/18) I changed that shaft the other day and the fluid and went to a quick disconnect ORC so I don't have to mess with the roll pin anymore.

A word to the wise here. My 8N had a 1 1/8" PTO on it. I had to remove the top cover for some work so I decided to replace it with a 1 3/8" PTO shaft and a quick connect push button ORC.

In the mean time I purchased my MF202 so I decided to make my 8N my dedicated mowing tractor. Doing that, I decided to remove the Pat's Quick Hitches from the 8N since I wouldn't be removing the mower anymore. So, after removing those and trying to hitch up my mower again, I discovered that without the quick hitches my mowers drive shaft was too long and there was no way to hook it up.

I seems that the new 1 3/8" PTO shaft was longer than the old one and the push button ORC was a little longer also. That extra length was just enough to keep me from putting the mower shaft back on. So, I put the quick hitches back on it and they gave me enough room to hook up the shaft with room for up and down movement of the mower.

So...you ask, why not just cut the drive shaft? Well my mower has a round outer shaft with a square hole in the end that slips over the square shaft on the mower. That square hole in the outer shaft does not run full length of the shaft. It is a machined piece which is welded on to the round shaft. You can see the piece in the picture below. They actually sell these end pieces at TSC. I didn't want to shorten that piece any more that it already was. So, that's my story. Can it happen to you? Who knows?

squareShaftPiece.png
 
You got a good point their Caryc, not all mower driveshafts are the same configuration. Mine are both triangular so I wasn't worried when I had to cut off 4" to give the connection more room.
Mowed the pasture today.
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:45 06/04/18)
(quoted from post at 07:48:38 06/04/18) I changed that shaft the other day and the fluid and went to a quick disconnect ORC so I don't have to mess with the roll pin anymore.

A word to the wise here. My 8N had a 1 1/8" PTO on it. I had to remove the top cover for some work so I decided to replace it with a 1 3/8" PTO shaft and a quick connect push button ORC.

In the mean time I purchased my MF202 so I decided to make my 8N my dedicated mowing tractor. Doing that, I decided to remove the Pat's Quick Hitches from the 8N since I wouldn't be removing the mower anymore. So, after removing those and trying to hitch up my mower again, I discovered that without the quick hitches my mowers drive shaft was too long and there was no way to hook it up.

I seems that the new 1 3/8" PTO shaft was longer than the old one and the push button ORC was a little longer also. That extra length was just enough to keep me from putting the mower shaft back on. So, I put the quick hitches back on it and they gave me enough room to hook up the shaft with room for up and down movement of the mower.

So...you ask, why not just cut the drive shaft? Well my mower has a round outer shaft with a square hole in the end that slips over the square shaft on the mower. That square hole in the outer shaft does not run full length of the shaft. It is a machined piece which is welded on to the round shaft. You can see the piece in the picture below. They actually sell these end pieces at TSC. I didn't want to shorten that piece any more that it already was. So, that's my story. Can it happen to you? Who knows?

squareShaftPiece.png
I take it the outer portion of your PTO shaft bottoms on the inner.
You probably did the right thing by putting the quick hitch back on.
If you're running a rotary mower, you will want that ORC.
If just a finish mower it wouldn't be such a big deal to me,
although I still used my ORC since it was there already.
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:58 06/04/18)
(quoted from post at 20:16:45 06/04/18)
(quoted from post at 07:48:38 06/04/18) I changed that shaft the other day and the fluid and went to a quick disconnect ORC so I don't have to mess with the roll pin anymore.

A word to the wise here. My 8N had a 1 1/8" PTO on it. I had to remove the top cover for some work so I decided to replace it with a 1 3/8" PTO shaft and a quick connect push button ORC.

In the mean time I purchased my MF202 so I decided to make my 8N my dedicated mowing tractor. Doing that, I decided to remove the Pat's Quick Hitches from the 8N since I wouldn't be removing the mower anymore. So, after removing those and trying to hitch up my mower again, I discovered that without the quick hitches my mowers drive shaft was too long and there was no way to hook it up.

I seems that the new 1 3/8" PTO shaft was longer than the old one and the push button ORC was a little longer also. That extra length was just enough to keep me from putting the mower shaft back on. So, I put the quick hitches back on it and they gave me enough room to hook up the shaft with room for up and down movement of the mower.

So...you ask, why not just cut the drive shaft? Well my mower has a round outer shaft with a square hole in the end that slips over the square shaft on the mower. That square hole in the outer shaft does not run full length of the shaft. It is a machined piece which is welded on to the round shaft. You can see the piece in the picture below. They actually sell these end pieces at TSC. I didn't want to shorten that piece any more that it already was. So, that's my story. Can it happen to you? Who knows?

squareShaftPiece.png
I take it the outer portion of your PTO shaft bottoms on the inner.
You probably did the right thing by putting the quick hitch back on.
If you're running a rotary mower, you will want that ORC.
If just a finish mower it wouldn't be such a big deal to me,
although I still used my ORC since it was there already.

Yes, the outer shaft bottoms out on the square shaft and there isn't even enough room to hook it up on the ORC.
 
Yes.
The push button orc is a blessing. EZ on. EZ
off. Having that pto spinning all the time
with a roll pin type orc on it just to raise
the lift gave me the creeps.
Better yet, get a tractor with live
hydraulics so you dont need the pto spinning
all the time.
Best of all, get a tractor wirh LIVE pto and
you can toss that stupid orc in the ditch
and leave it there.
 
" The push button orc is a blessing. EZ on, EZ off. Having that pto spinning all the time with a roll pin type orc on it just to raise the lift gave me the creeps."

Exactly why I went to it 'dog. The neighbor down the road got wrapped up in his a couple years ago with fatal results.
I change implements a lot in the summer.
 

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