8N will run and fire with starter fluid, but not without

I have an 8N with front distributor. I purchased it 3-4 years ago for $500. it needed a steering shaft with the worm gear, a rebuilt starter, and a tune up. I also converted it to 12 volt and bought a new battery for it. Total spent add another $500.

I got it running, then discovered it the 3 pt lift would leak off rapidly. Pump appears to work fine and holds the lift when running. I also discovered the left 3 pt lift arm pin is broke. The one under the rear axle. One of the PO's had drilled a hole and held it in place with a roll pin. Does not have adequate strength to plow with without pulling out.

Also one of the hat rims is rusted to the point it needs replacing. Rear tires are good, no cracking. And the rear axle leaks oil on one side.

One positive is that I know the PO put a new flywheel ring gear on it.

Q1: Have not tested compression yet. (I do have a tester.) Can a low compression motor fire and run on starter fluid, but not gasoline from the carb.? I did just rebuild the carb. Gas is flowing. I did change points, check timing, and changed spark plugs.

Q2: Since I am sick of messing with this 8n, and I just bought a 52 8N that runs, Should I take my losses and make it a parts tractor? I would like to get $500 out of it, but I couldn't sell it to anyone without notifying them of all the problems I know about.

I could stockpile in my parts inventory a rebuilt MS Carb., Two good used rear tires, one with a hat rim in good shape. A recently rebuilt starter, a good battery, 12v starter, lift arm parts, metal, etc.

Any wisdom / advice?
Thanks,
Jerry

Try the carb off the running tractor on the non runner. Mine has a tired engine but starts and runs fine.

(quoted from post at 16:35:53 06/02/18) Try the carb off the running tractor on the non runner. Mine has a tired engine but starts and runs fine.

Click to expand...

I thought about doing this, but I am fearful of having two non-running tractors! :lol:

A compression test is easy to do & will answer a number of questions about your problem.

Minimum acceptable pressure is 90 lbs w/ the lowest pressure reading w/in 75% of the highest reading. Run the engine to operating temp, turn it off, remove all 4 plugs, remove the breather hose & make sure the choke and throttle are both open. Crank it at least 5 compression strokes or until the gauge stops moving. Write down the first compression reading (that is the valves seating) then write down the reading after 5 strokes or when it stops increasing. You should have two numbers for each cylinder. Then, add a tablespoon of oil to each cylinder & repeat the process, but you only need the final reading for each cylinder. Write down the results & post back for help figuring out what it all means.
75 Tips

I had the same problem with mine when I first tried to fire it. It ran on starter fluid, but not off the carb. Gas was flowing to the carb, but not through it. The problem? The float needle was sticking closed. I rapped the float bowl a couple of times with a screwdriver handle and the float needle broke free.

Worth a shot.

I still need to rebuild the carb, but at least she runs on command now. Part of the rebuild will be a new needle and seat. I suspect the ones in there now are original 1948.