will this generator work ?

I recently bought a 1941 9N tractor that has some " different " parts on it . (6 volt genny is off an early willy's) . I have a 3-wire, 3 brush adjustable genny I would like to put on it if it will work . I can't read the first letter on the end plate ( either 8 or 9 ) . But the rest of the number is N 10139 C . Can anyone tell me if this will work on this tractor ? The tractor has a voltage regulator on it , but I'm guessing it's the wrong one, especially for the 10139 C . Any idea which vreg works with this genny ? Open to suggestions .

If it is a 3 brush adjustable generator it should work with a cutout relay and no voltage regulator.

If the vreg on your tractor is working, you don't need to buy a cutout. just disconnect any wire from the field terminal. leave
ground terminal hooked if it is a 4 wire. hookup the armature of the genny to the vreg, and then leave the vregs bat terminal to
the wire harness. you are then using the cutout that's built into the vreg.

if you want to get fancy, you can do surgery on your genny and convert it to 2 brush with just a little re-wiring and have real
field control via the vreg

If it will work with a cut out, then I'm guessing it must be a 9n genny ? But what do I do with all the wires ? I don't need to get fancy , just simple, dependable and what will work . Any idea what this genny was originally off of ?

Not a Ford tractor generator number. Photos of front, rear, side & if Ford tractor generator, I can tell you which one. Post them or e-mail.

As soon as I figure out how to attach photos I will.







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I opened this up and took a look inside. It definitely is a 3 brush adjustable w/ 3 wires. Gnd , arm & fld .

The first 8N generator. (missing a bracket.) Generator #8N10000 (sometimes 8N10000A), 3 brush, 3 terminal, 11.5 ampere output, used with 9N10505A voltage regulator. Mounted on right side of engine.

Thanks !! Exactly what I need to know. Will that genny and the vreg you said work ok on this tractor . I also have heard some brands of vregs aren't that good . Any suggestions on which one to use. Thanks for the info .

Thanks !! Exactly what I need to know. Will that genny and the vreg you said work ok on this tractor . I also have heard some brands of vregs aren't that good . Any suggestions on which one to use. Thanks for the info .

Thanks !! Exactly what I need to know. Will that genny and the vreg you said work ok on this tractor . I also have heard some brands of vregs aren't that good . Any suggestions on which one to use. Thanks for the info .

(quoted from post at 19:42:19 05/31/18) Thanks !! Exactly what I need to know. Will that genny and the vreg you said work ok on this tractor . I also have heard some brands of vregs aren't that good . Any suggestions on which one to use. Thanks for the info .

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es, it will bolt on and work fine, if it is good. VR will probably have to be 10505B as I don't think the 10505A is available any more. No idea as to which brands are good/bad.

Thanks . I appreciate the info.

Does anyone have a bracket for this that they are willing to part with ?

That part number as shown is the bracket, NOT the generator. FORD basic nomenclature for generators is 10000. It is the prefix that designates the module it was first used on. The "9N" prefix means it was first used on the 9N tractor. ALL 9N and 2N tractors, except the first early ones, used a 1-wire/3-brush generator, A circuit design, which required the round can cutout circuit, not a voltage regulator -that was only used on the early 9Ns using the 9N-10000-A small generator, B-Circuit design. The 3-wire/3-brush model, A circuit design, was used on the early 8Ns -48/49/early 50 and required a voltage regulator. Make sure your genny is A circuit design and output set at 11.5 amps -starter guy can test. Now, 9Ns and 2Ns used the cutout which was mounted on the lower steering box behind the dash. As stated, you would need an 8N10505 VR to use this genny. The VR on the 8N was mounted on RH side behind dash under oil pressure gauge. You may have to fab a bracket to mount the VR on the steering box where the cutout mounts. You may also need to purchase an 8N wiring harness as well because the original wiring for a cutout does not have the correct wires needed. The early 8N generators also use a special belt tensioning arm, p/n 8N-1015 -see MPC diagrams. If you need one, I have some for sale, email me. I also have a newly rebuilt 9N-10000-C generator which includes the correct belt tensioning kit. get "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" to guide you with wiring. You may want to ensure you have a good, correct GP-1 AG type 6 Volt battery as well -do not use a car, boat, RV, or deep cycle battery.

Tim Daley(MI)

These pictures are the early 8N-10000-A generator, a 3-wire/3-brush type, A circuit design, output at 11.5 amps. It uses the 8N-10505 Voltage Regulator. The plate you show with 9N-10139 part number is only the plate p/n. Generators were never marked with a part number. The 8N-10000 is the assembly number. You will also need the 8N-10145 belt tensioning arm.

Tim Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 20:29:12 05/31/18) Does anyone have a bracket for this that they are willing to part with ?

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o you have the pulley and nut? If not, you may be needing those as well as bracket (the nut is an odd ball 0.5902 X20.)

The pulley that was on it was bent so I ordered a new one . It is the threaded type with a C-clip on the end of the shaft . The tractor is already wired for a 3 wire gen , but I have replaced most of the wiring as the old stuff was pretty bad . The mounting bracket that I thought worked on this is a 3 cornered one that matches the shape of the end cap . Is that correct ?

Tim, what and where are MPC diagrams .

(quoted from post at 09:30:13 06/01/18) The pulley that was on it was bent so I ordered a new one . It is the threaded type with a C-clip on the end of the shaft . The tractor is already wired for a 3 wire gen , but I have replaced most of the wiring as the old stuff was pretty bad . The mounting bracket that I thought worked on this is a 3 cornered one that matches the shape of the end cap . Is that correct ?

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FORD N-Tractor generators used two different thread sizes on armatures and pulleys. Be aware that due to manufacturing reasons, they are special sizes, not standard. They use a combination metric size major diameter using an INCH for TPI (Threads Per Inch) format. Early parts used a .59"-20 size, later 8Ns went to a larger .669"-20 size. Now .59" is equivalent to 15 mm. .669" is equivalent to 17 mm. Neither size is industry standard for fasteners. I've seen many guys booger up pulleys and armatures with the wrong threads. Some try to use a 9/16" tap and die which is a bit OS. They don't make the correct size tap and dies unless you special order. You could get a 15mm x 1.25mm as the pitch, 1.25 is close enough, .0492" to the 20 TPI -or .050" and should work fine. If you get one made, why not just get it the correct .59-20 (or .67-20) size though? Make sure your generator shop knows this.

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim, don't see a way to email or pm you. I'm new to this forum .

(quoted from post at 10:35:00 06/01/18) Tim, don't see a way to email or pm you. I'm new to this forum .

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eave Modern View & go to Classic View and look at Tim's 3 messages & find that in 1 of the 3, he has e-mail open.

(quoted from post at 07:40:53 06/01/18)

(quoted from post at 10:35:00 06/01/18) Tim, don't see a way to email or pm you. I'm new to this forum .

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eave Modern View & go to Classic View and look at Tim's 3 messages & find that in 1 of the 3, he has e-mail open.

Click to expand...

OK , Thanks.

I may be able to comply...email is open

Tim Daley(MI)

JMOR shows the belt tensioning arm used on the early 8N generators, p/n 8N-10145. The 9N-10000-C and the 2N-10000 used a different belt tensioning device. The first two 9N generators had small barrels and no means of keeping the fan belt tight. They only had the mounting/pivot bolt in place which often would loosen up on itself in the field. This was a problem causing non-charging issues and many a farmer was stranded at the end of the day if not sooner due to a dead battery. My late, great uncles told me they made sure they'd stop every few hours to re-tighten the generator on their early 1939 9N Ford-Ferguson. It took Ford engineers a few years to finally figure out why there were charging problems. They had tried changing the sizes of the pulleys in attempts to spin faster with hopes of charging faster/better. The pulleys didn't work. The 9N-10000-C and the 2N-10000 generators are virtually the same internally and externally except the 2N had a bracket fastened that would now be part of a belt tensioning device. Another special piece fastened to the head at the RH front head bolts and accepted the long special threaded rod for tension adjustment -SEE PIX. At the time of the new 2N generator release, Ford offered a belt tensioning kit for the prior 9N-10000-C generator with the same parts except it used a steel band that fastened around the barrel. This kit was a dealer supplied optional accessory. One of the reasons I get fellas in my shop with their N's not running/not charging is due to the fact that there is no belt tension whatsoever and thus no charging of the generator. Often times I see 2Ns and late 9Ns with the piece that is fastened to the head, but the genny had been removed at some point, replaced or rebuilt, and reinstalled without the rest of the tensioning device. On early 8Ns, the 8N-10145 belt arm is missing because when genny was removed for rebuild it was misplaced and/or forgotten about. without proper fan belt tension, you can forget about the generator charging the battery as intended. Even with a 12-volt conversion, you need another special tensioning bracket made for alternators. I have also seen these missing from 12-volt jobs. Hope his helps clarify the issue.

FORD TRACTOR 2N-10000 GENERATOR WITH BELT TENSIONING DEVICE ATTACHED:

FORD TRACTOR 9N-10000-C GENERATOR WITH BELT TENSIONING KIT INSTALLED:

Tim Daley(MI)

Just to follow up on all the info given so far, this is what I'd do. If your tractor is not some early s/n model that you are going to restore to ALL ORIGINAL, then the cheapest way to go would be to convert over to a 12V/NEG GRN system. The 9N/2N wiring harness is not sufficient for the 8N 3-wire generator -you'd need an 8N wiring harness, plus an 8N voltage regulator to do it right. A generator rebuild would run at least $125, probably more. Finding the correct generator would be an added expense (I have some complete & rebuilt), A VR about $50, a wiring harness about $90 for a decent one, a decent cutout $25, and a new battery about $125. A 12V alternator kit runs around $120 and can be found with a 12-V coil included as well so no need for the external ceramic resistor. It is your tractor and you can do whatever you want to it. Can you post or send me a picture of the VR on it now?

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim, I emailed you yesterday. Did you get it ?