8n not running right

Jmcollins77

New User
Need some help. Have a 52 8N side mount distributor 12v
system. Had been running great. Left the key on and drained
the battery. Will not run right since. Misses and floods when it
finally starts. Changed points, condenser, plugs, new coil.
Rewired everything back to key switch. Cleaned and rebuilt
the carb and am getting good fuel flow to the carb. Had new
distributor cap and wires at end of last year. Not sure what
else to try. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Just because you changed the points doesn't mean they aren't the problem. They need excellent contacts to make your tractor run right. Try cleaning them.
 
Re-check your point gap. .025 as well as the timing. (you did set the timing after you replaced the points, right?)

" Misses and floods when it finally starts. "

The usual cause of flooding is operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.
75 Tips
 
Did not set the timing. Have changed points before in the tractor and never had to mess with it. Did I just get lucky then? Also the flooding comes with the choke being off. Tractor will start without it but as it is trying to run it starts flooding on its own without the choke. Whenever you try to start it after it usually will hit then spin the starter out. It will do this 4 out of 5 or so times before it will start. Then the process starts over again.
 
Jmcollins,No you don't have to reset the rimming every time the points are changed.If the gap is set correctly the rimming will be fine.How this dumb confuseing roomer that the rimming has to be reset after every point change got started here is beyond me.
 
" How this dumb confuseing roomer that the rimming has to be reset after every point change got started here is beyond me. "

Well, it's been around since the early 60's. :)

Set the gap correctly on a new distributor correctly installed on a new timing gear, then the timing will be fine.

As parts get old and wear increases, the timing will be off even if the gap is set correctly..
75 Tips
 
You say it ran fine until you left the key on and drained the battery. Just for kicks, put volt meter on the battery and check for polarity. It may have gotten reversed. Maybe try a different battery, fully charged.
 
Well made some progress this evening. After double checking everything from the key switch back and recleaning carb it still was doing the same thing. Out of somewhat of frustration I smacked the distributor with a crescent wrench and boom, it started running perfect. Ran for about 10 minutes idle and at full throttle. Then started missing again. Smacked the distributor again. Took right off. There are no wires that I seen in there that are shorted. What else could be causing this fiasco? I?m to the point now of just changing the whole distributor out.
 
" I?m to the point now of just changing the whole distributor out. "

Well, your call if you want to replace a $2 insulator w/ an entire distributor.


Make sure you have voltage across the points, as in past the insulator on the side of the distributor. That is a very common failure point on sidemounts, along w/ the attached copper strip. It's hard to find a short there because it is usually an intermittent . So 'wiggle' the insulator & the copper strip a bit when you are doing your checking. If you find the short there, the Master Parts catalog lists everything you need on page 154. You can make the strip and you could also make the insulators as well. But, somethings are just easier & in the long run cheaper to buy. Get the strip, 12209, screw 350032-S, 12233 bushing & 12234 insulator & just replace it all.

If your distributor base is excessively oily, you could also have a grounding problem.
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Thanks Bruce. There is actually no original insulator there. Just the wire from the coil through a hole to the points. I assume this could be ground out against the base of the distributor.
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:08 05/17/18) " I assume this could be ground out against the base of the distributor."

Yep.
75 Tips

Who says that smacking your tractor with a monkey wrench isn't a proper diagnostic method?

See?

It works. And you feel better.
 

OK... a little side-tracked.

I bought a brand new staple gun from Lowes. A good one, something like 30 bucks. I get home and start stapling with it. It jams.

I dig all of the staples out of it and put in a fresh strip.

Works for a little while...jams again.

This happens about three times.

Finally, it jams and I just plain can NOT get it to work. I try replacing the strip...I make sure that there are no staples stuck in it... I'm at my wits end.

By now, I'm swearing like a sailor.

I rear back and give this thing a Goose Gossage fastball right to the concrete floor. Then I scream a few expletives at it.

After I calm down, I pick it up. Just for kicks, I squeeze the trigger.

That was two years ago, and it's worked flawlessly ever since...
 
(quoted from post at 15:21:05 05/17/18)
(quoted from post at 11:31:08 05/17/18) " I assume this could be ground out against the base of the distributor."

Yep.
75 Tips

Who says that smacking your tractor with a monkey wrench isn't a proper diagnostic method?

See?

It works. And you feel better.

A.K.A. "percussive maintenance"
 

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