Sanity Check, Regarding Ford 2N Generator

Good morning gents.

I had my 2N in the barn for most of the winter. I only started it up a few times here and there to get the cobwebs out of it.

Every time I did, I would always let it run for 15 minutes or so; just to make sure it got warmed up and put some juice back in the battery.

Well, I've used it a couple of times this spring, and it's getting harder and harder to start. Runs fine... but my battery voltage is about 6V... and it's the same when the tractor is running.

I have an analog voltmeter, I measured the voltage between the single post on the back of the generator and various points on the frame.

Zero...nothing...nada...zip.

I tried my voltmeter in both polarities...just on the odd chance that I was trying the wrong polarity and the needle was trying to go negative (which it can't)... same thing.

The generator is also cold. I seem to remember that it would warm up after a while when it was running correctly.

My first guess is that my generator is shot. I haven't disconnected the battery all winter...so it shouldn't need to be polarized. Correct?

I'm questioning myself, though...because I've run this tractor for quite a while the last time that I started it. How long will these old girls run the ignition off of the battery if the generator is dead? Seems like darn near forever.

Am I missing anything?

My next step, unless someone tells me that I've missed something is to take the generator down to a local guy who tests and rebuilds such things.

Thanks and have a good morning all.

"I haven't disconnected the battery all winter...so it shouldn't need to be polarized. Correct?"



Every single time the engine is shut down and the cutout points open the generator is disconnected from the battery.

At that point it makes NO difference if the battery is removed or not, the generator isn't connected to the battery anyhow!

A GENERATOR will eventually lose residual magnetism and may have to be polarized to get it to charge.

But that TYPICALLY doesn't happen over winter.

But, for gosh sakes, polarize it and give it a try, you may get lucky. It doesn't cost anything and what have you got to lose by trying???

Easy enough to try.

Thanks

Like Bob G. said in an earlier post, bypass the cutout with a jumper wire or even a screwdriver or something and see if the ammeter starts showing a positive charge. If not, then have the generator checked, if so, then replace the cutout. BTW, when you jump the cutout you would be polarizing the generator.

have your battery load tested at an auto store

HiYa Cowboy-
My nickname when I was in jr. high was Cowboy as I always wore boots even being a city then. So, your 2N means a front mount distributor. You say 6-volt, but, just because you have a 6-volt battery does not mean the system is wired correctly. Original FORD systems are 6-volt/positive ground. Later 9N and all 2N models used the round-can cutout circuit. The 2N-10000 generator should be a 1-wire/3-brush type with a belt tensioning device attached ?see picture. Wiring diagrams/schematics will show exactly how they are correctly wired. Battery and its cables are crucial as well. Battery must be a GP-1 AG type and sustain a charge under load. Get it tested at a starter shop. Simply slapping charger on in does not mean it is good. Once root cause of problem is identified and corrected, invest in a Battery Tender and keep it on battery when not in use. Just firing up the tractor once a month will not keep the battery properly maintained and it will lose its charging capacity. Generator has to work under load to charge, just running engine at idle won?t do anything. Polarizing is not the problem nor the answer either. Avoid buying cheap bargain-house batteries and any new parts until problem is identified. Your starter shop can bench test the generator and starter as well. Don?t scrap them out if bad, get them rebuilt if needed but be sure the guy knows old Ford electrical systems. Once root cause of problem is identified and corrected, invest in a Battery Tender and keep it on battery when not in use. Avoid buying any new parts until problem is identified. Go thru all the wiring as well. Start with the basics.

ORIGINAL FORD 2N-10000 GENERATOR w/BELT TENSIONER:

TPD

I wrote an article/document on the early 9N/2N generators, cutouts, and voltage regulator, copyrighted by the way, and it is posted on the NTC site under HOW-TO's/Electrical. My email is open if you wish to discuss further as well...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 05:22:41 05/15/18) I wrote an article/document on the early 9N/2N generators, cutouts, and voltage regulator, copyrighted by the way, and it is posted on the NTC site under HOW-TO's/Electrical. My email is open if you wish to discuss further as well...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Click to expand...

Thanks,

My generator looks just like the one in the picture.

I hope that all of the wiring is correct. I did an in-frame rebuild of the motor two years ago. When I did that, I installed all new wiring harnesses, ignition components, battery and battery cutout.

Tractor has been running nearly perfect since then... until I noticed my battery getting weak and then measuring zero volts off of the generator.

My starter appears to be fine, as a little boost starts the old girl right up as it should.

My battery also seems fine, as I can put the tractor on a tender in between running it, and it will also start just fine. I did this experiment after I originally posted.

What doesn't work is if I start it and run it a few times without putting the battery on a tender in between.

That, coupled with the zero volts off of the generator is pointing me towards the generator.

I am fortunate to know a shop within about five miles of my house that tests and rebuilds old generators, alternators and starters.

I just haven't had the time to put the generator in his hands to get his opinion, yet.

Well as long as you’re getting the generator tested have the shop test the battery as well just in case. It only takes a second to load test it

Can't hurt.