Hauling a 8N

8NHENRY

Member
Ok, so this summer I need to haul my tractor to a couple fairly close events. At this time I do not have a trailer but a friend of mine has one he said I can use. It is a single axle trailer with new tires and the axles are rated at 3500lbs. I know it is not ideal and would never think of going more than 20-30 miles. Has anyone had experience with transporting there tractor on a single axle trailer. Sometime this summer I am going to have a dual axle trailer I am still working out a place to store it ect.
Thanks.
 
I hauled one for years on a single axle (trailer house) and no brakes. I had no problems, but now that I have a good car hauler I
probably wouldnt do it again. Depends on the trailer I guess.
 
I wouldn't do it, but I would have in the past. I've seen and done too many dumb things to repeat them, I think it's called acquired wisdom from a life of poor decisions. Trailers seem to have more power than a speeding locomotive when you really need to stop, and they have leverage on whatever you're towing it with.
 
how long is the trailer, if its one of those normally about the size of a short-bed American truck, dont, the trailer can take the weight that's not the problem, 3500 of lets say drywall, is flat and the weight is even throughout the whole load, the problem is a tractor has only 4 points to bear all its weight, to complicate it more a tractor does not split its weight equally between its front and rear axles, more like 70 /30 or worse, most normal size single axle trailers do not have the bed space to get the weight right so the trailer wont whip side to side behind you, a whipping trailer with a n tractor on it is usually a wreck
 

Provided it has brakes and that you load it and secure it correctly, and you don't exceed the tow rating of your truck you will have no problem at all. A single axle trailer is perfectly good within its legal rating. The whipping that Eric LB refers to is what happens when there is too little tongue load. The nonsense about four points would come into play if the deck were made of 1/4 plywood. I be that you can tell the difference between 1/4 and 5/8.
 

My question is what are you pulling it with?
The trailer will handle the N just fine.
Get it balanced over the trailer axle so
there's about 70% on the trailer and 30% on
the tow vehicle.
If the deck is weak lay a couple of 2X6s
down first and drive the tractor on them.
With a full size pu I wouldn't even worry
about brakes on the trailer but would hook
them up if both vehicles are adapted to
them. Wouldn't worry about lights either if
it is an easy, daytime haul.
 
First define, "fairly close". Then look at the laws where you live. A tractor loaded on a trailer has different rules to follow than a tractor driven down the road. While it may take you a bit longer it may be a lot less costly to drive the tractor to the event than to haul it.

I bought a tractor 100 miles away and drove it home because if I loaded it onto a trailer I now had to follow DOT rules. A farm tractor with a slow moving vehicle sign was legal on the roads as it was.
 
(quoted from post at 13:17:04 05/05/18) First define, "fairly close". Then look at the laws where you live. A tractor loaded on a trailer has different rules to follow than a tractor driven down the road. While it may take you a bit longer it may be a lot less costly to drive the tractor to the event than to haul it.

I bought a tractor 100 miles away and drove it home because if I loaded it onto a trailer I now had to follow DOT rules. A farm tractor with a slow moving vehicle sign was legal on the roads as it was.

Driving a 8N 100 miles will take around 7.35 hours and use about 11 gallons of gas. The 7.35 hours is if you don't make any stops along the way. A truck and a trailer makes the trip more appealing to me.
 
(quoted from post at 09:21:27 05/05/18) 100 miles is a stretch! 15 might be my limit.

I drove mine 15 miles and it really wasn't too bad. I got to see what was down some gravel roads that I generally avoid. It took me an hour. 100 miles would be a bit more daunting though.
 
The tractor drives around here go to 35 mile for a one day outing. And I would never try that on a single axle trailer. Years ago and I am talking over 50 years ago homemade implement trailer and that is all that they were. Loaded up the would not start 2N and took to garage 5 mile away. Was way too much on that trailer. I know have a 2015 model tandem axle 3500# axle trailer so it is called a 7000# trailer with a trailer weight of 1500# so should be good for 5500# corect? I had that same 2N on it once and it was overloaded, never again. I also have a about 20 year old trailer set up the same but it weighed 1,750# for a 5,250# load and it handled the 2N fine. The tires are loaded as this is a working tractor. I am not sure of weight of the tractor but I do know it is abouve the legal weight on a single axle 3,500# axle trailer not considering the weight of the trailer. That 2015 trailer I could look in the mirrow and just see the trailer flexing. And I drove it over 20 mile one way just to go farming.
 
Leroy the newer trailers today are designed to flex going down the road. I would like to see a trailer that can flex instead of a ridge that will maybe crack or break.
 
Thanks for the reply's. Yes the trailer is only 3 years old and it belongs to a guy I help harvest and do field work for. Transportation would be right around 30 miles maybe a little less. I am in the process of checking out a tandem axle trailers and I still have to find a place to keep it as I have no room in town. If I where to use this two wheel trailer it would only be probably twice, hopefully less.
 
I hauled my 8N on my single axle trailer once. Won't do it again.
My trailer has a 3500 lb axle but weighs 1200 lbs, so max 2300 lb
payload. The 8N pushed that to the limit and bent the ramp trying to
get it backed onto the trailer. Trailer brakes are also recommended.
 
The steel is just too undersized to be safe. The ramp tailgate is not strong enough for a larger garden tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 07:02:26 05/05/18)
(quoted from post at 09:21:27 05/05/18) 100 miles is a stretch! 15 might be my limit.

I drove mine 15 miles and it really wasn't too bad. I got to see what was down some gravel roads that I generally avoid. It took me an hour. 100 miles would be a bit more daunting though.

I drove an AC 190 ~35 miles home from an auction, and I think it topped out around 12-13 mph. Took about three-and-a-half hours, including a gas stop and a stop to by a flashing marker light, as it was almost dark when I got home. Wouldn't really want to do that again unless I absolutely had to.

2014_sheddirtpile.jpg


es
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:53 05/05/18) The steel is just too undersized to be safe. The ramp tailgate is not strong enough for a larger garden tractor.

Leroy, what manufacturer is using undersized steel?
 
8NHenry, I don?t know where your located but if you?re near
South Alabama I could hook you up with a bumper pull
tandem axle trailer, got too many trailers
 
The $500 or more fine for not having the tractor chained correctly (according to the inspector) or overweight trailer made the 100 mile drive seem worthwhile.
 
I have hauled my 9N many times on single axle 3500 axle trailer without brakes. I tie down with chains and binders and am under the capacity of the trailer.
 
Once again thanks for all of the replies. Greyrider I wish I was closer but am up in nw Iowa. The guy that has the trailer uses it to haul his mower and said " it should be ok, hardly weighs more than my mower". Like I said wouldn't take it cross state but just 20 to 30 miles for some tractor rides and traveling county black tops at a slower pace.
 

Around here it is easy to rent a dual axle trailer and they are pretty cheap for just one day. Check with Uhaul and and Tool rental place like United Rentals. Having a dual axle would be much better.
 

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