Folks,
I've gone through about 3 hrs worth of past posts today on this very subject; but, I've taken the steering box off to view the mechanics of the linkage, fork, and throw-out bearing: Nothing seems to be lose or cracked; yet, the throw-out bearing pressure-plate fingers-contact surface is spaced between 3/4 & 1" to the fingers when fully retracted. And, it just "touches" the fingers with the clutch "fully disengaged" and adjustment to it's shortest spacing. What is that "normal" fully retracted/clutch engaged spacing with the TO/carrier & fork all the way back?
Have any of you needed to put a spacer behind or "over" (in front of) the TO bearing to get the mechanism to work correctly?
What is the original thickness of the throwout bearing? Measurements I've seen are 0.840" (original), 0.796", 0.780", etc., from various manufacturers. The only "common" measurement seems to be the inside diameter to properly fit onto the bearing carrier. Seems to me that these various bearing thickness variations would make a big difference in clutch adjustment/operation. I have not yet been able to actually measure MY TO bearing thickness; so, I don't know what's really in there. I'm working outside and can't look now due to rain/snow. Comments??
And, in just moving things around by hand in there yesterday, I noticed that near all the way back (retracted) the TO bearing carrier seemed to have a slight "hang-up" (~1/8") if rotated slightly. Which brings me to another question: Is there any kind of keying on the transmission "snout" and bearing carrier to prevent rotation of the carrier; or, is it just a smooth bore?
Yes, I know that I may need to split it and actually measure for the 2" finger to flywheel height; just trying to avoid the split, if possible; as, I've never done a split before; and, I do not have any concrete pad to do the split on. Suggestions for splitting on earth ground??
Any comments / questions / concerns very welcome.
Thanks, JLB
I've gone through about 3 hrs worth of past posts today on this very subject; but, I've taken the steering box off to view the mechanics of the linkage, fork, and throw-out bearing: Nothing seems to be lose or cracked; yet, the throw-out bearing pressure-plate fingers-contact surface is spaced between 3/4 & 1" to the fingers when fully retracted. And, it just "touches" the fingers with the clutch "fully disengaged" and adjustment to it's shortest spacing. What is that "normal" fully retracted/clutch engaged spacing with the TO/carrier & fork all the way back?
Have any of you needed to put a spacer behind or "over" (in front of) the TO bearing to get the mechanism to work correctly?
What is the original thickness of the throwout bearing? Measurements I've seen are 0.840" (original), 0.796", 0.780", etc., from various manufacturers. The only "common" measurement seems to be the inside diameter to properly fit onto the bearing carrier. Seems to me that these various bearing thickness variations would make a big difference in clutch adjustment/operation. I have not yet been able to actually measure MY TO bearing thickness; so, I don't know what's really in there. I'm working outside and can't look now due to rain/snow. Comments??
And, in just moving things around by hand in there yesterday, I noticed that near all the way back (retracted) the TO bearing carrier seemed to have a slight "hang-up" (~1/8") if rotated slightly. Which brings me to another question: Is there any kind of keying on the transmission "snout" and bearing carrier to prevent rotation of the carrier; or, is it just a smooth bore?
Yes, I know that I may need to split it and actually measure for the 2" finger to flywheel height; just trying to avoid the split, if possible; as, I've never done a split before; and, I do not have any concrete pad to do the split on. Suggestions for splitting on earth ground??
Any comments / questions / concerns very welcome.
Thanks, JLB